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ample current

I have been out to a faulty immersion and have found that there is current through the thermostat. but no current after the next component between the two white wires. what is this and what does it do? and is it bypassable , repairable without having to change the whole element.

thanks
Mark
 

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It looks like a thermal overload stat (although it is not clear on the photo ^^^^as above it won't enlarge), if it is you should just push in the centre part to reset it. I would consider changing the t+e supplying it with HR flex aswell while you are on.
 
yep, it's a thermal cut out to stop the water boiling if the stat goes s/c. if the stat has a thermal cut-out, then you don't need this . bypass it if it's duff.
 
I dont think the stat has a resettable switch. i will go back and see if the tiny black object inbetween the two white cables is a button and see what happens.
I dunno why the pic was so small????? stoopid phone cam

Thanks guys
 
that little black button is the reset. if it clicks when you press it, then you should get continuity across the terminals. but be prepared to go back if it trips again.
 
that little black button is the reset. if it clicks when you press it, then you should get continuity across the terminals. but be prepared to go back if it trips again.


I was thinking exactly this, there is obviously a reason why it should trip in the first place, i may turn down the themostat a few degrees to see if it helps. I assume if it keeps tripping the thermostat isnt working properly.
 
I was thinking exactly this, there is obviously a reason why it should trip in the first place, i may turn down the themostat a few degrees to see if it helps. I assume if it keeps tripping the thermostat isnt working properly.

I think that I am right in saying that the stat should be set at above 50oC because of legionella, so bare that in mind.............
 
you get legionella by inhaling infected droplets, as in a shower. having bath water below 60deg. will not cause you to die.
 
I was only thinking a few degrees nothing drastic its set about 62-63 at the mo so may just drop it to 60.
 
Yep,its a high temp cut-out and i would have a quick surf of the water regs regarding these.You do not have to change these if existing but a change or upgrade requires these.You cannot adapt or by-pass these and they can be a pain on dual input emersions (solid fuel input coils).I have also seen non-resettable versions.The problem occurs when the higher temp input from the woodburner,say,lifts the tank temp above the reset and you only find out in the spring when the electric back up fails to work.I looked at fitting remote resets and LED indicators to inform of condition but wilted.
 
Are you saying we should have 60° baths? :tt1:

No I am saying that I have been told that heated water in a domestic hot water system should be maintained as far as practicable above 50oC to stop the legionella multiplying.
 
No I am saying that I have been told that heated water in a domestic hot water system should be maintained as far as practicable above 50oC to stop the legionella multiplying.

A few years ago, our local authority sent blokes around the houses to check that peoples' stored hot water was above 50 degrees for this very reason.
 

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