nyb
-
- Reaction score
- 0
Hi all
I just had an electrician around to install a 6400W induction hob. Honestly I'm a little worried as to the job done. Also I noticed some weird wiring done (for the previous owners of the house I guess) that looked very suspect to me.
Basically this is the issue. The kitchen has one ring (strangely shared with some of the bedroom sockets!) for the sockets (32A breaker) and another separate circuit (I have no idea if ring or radial - I assume radial?) for the oven and hob.
The oven is connected to this through what looks to me like a 20A switch (the oven is rated at 4400W). The hob seems spurred off this on (what I at least hope is not less than) 2.5mm.
The new 6400W induction hob's wiring diagrams give two options. a 1L/1N and 2L/2N wiring options. The electrician opted for the 2nd option and wired the first part to the hob circuit off this existing spur (which had a 13A switch, now replaced with a 20A one) and the second hob circuit to another 20A which is spurred off an existing spur to the kitchen ring main.
So I have a few concerns:
Firstly, the 2nd hob circuit (connected to the spur of the ring main) can draw presumably 3200W (half the hob rated power) which is around 14A. The spur that it's connected to I noticed has another spur off it to a socket with an extension cable connected to a washer and to a dryer and a further extension cable off the original spurred socket itself to 2 dishwashers!
This seems crazy to me as to me the sums just don't add up. The spur to the main looks like 2.5mm so that would manage max 27A presumably?
If the hob can draw 14A and each appliance a few kW each (I have no idea exactly what they're rated for but they heat their own water),that seems like danger territory if they all run at once (which is possible in my house).
Even the extension leads (that have two appliances on each) don't seem safe on their own (can they handle two appliances).
For now to mitigate, I turned off the 20A switch from the part of the induction to the ring (leaving only the 20A switch on to the cooker circuit). This works ok even though we can only use 2 out of the 4 plates on the hob.
I al also worried about the separate cooker circuit. Can it take the leftover 3200W from the hob + the 4400W from the oven ok?
Thanks,
D
I just had an electrician around to install a 6400W induction hob. Honestly I'm a little worried as to the job done. Also I noticed some weird wiring done (for the previous owners of the house I guess) that looked very suspect to me.
Basically this is the issue. The kitchen has one ring (strangely shared with some of the bedroom sockets!) for the sockets (32A breaker) and another separate circuit (I have no idea if ring or radial - I assume radial?) for the oven and hob.
The oven is connected to this through what looks to me like a 20A switch (the oven is rated at 4400W). The hob seems spurred off this on (what I at least hope is not less than) 2.5mm.
The new 6400W induction hob's wiring diagrams give two options. a 1L/1N and 2L/2N wiring options. The electrician opted for the 2nd option and wired the first part to the hob circuit off this existing spur (which had a 13A switch, now replaced with a 20A one) and the second hob circuit to another 20A which is spurred off an existing spur to the kitchen ring main.
So I have a few concerns:
Firstly, the 2nd hob circuit (connected to the spur of the ring main) can draw presumably 3200W (half the hob rated power) which is around 14A. The spur that it's connected to I noticed has another spur off it to a socket with an extension cable connected to a washer and to a dryer and a further extension cable off the original spurred socket itself to 2 dishwashers!
This seems crazy to me as to me the sums just don't add up. The spur to the main looks like 2.5mm so that would manage max 27A presumably?
If the hob can draw 14A and each appliance a few kW each (I have no idea exactly what they're rated for but they heat their own water),that seems like danger territory if they all run at once (which is possible in my house).
Even the extension leads (that have two appliances on each) don't seem safe on their own (can they handle two appliances).
For now to mitigate, I turned off the 20A switch from the part of the induction to the ring (leaving only the 20A switch on to the cooker circuit). This works ok even though we can only use 2 out of the 4 plates on the hob.
I al also worried about the separate cooker circuit. Can it take the leftover 3200W from the hob + the 4400W from the oven ok?
Thanks,
D
). I agree with your assessment of the overloaded spur off the ring - that's why I've turned off the isolation switch from the 2 plates of the hob connected to that circuit and am just using the two hobs connected to the cooker circuit for now.
