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Steviecuk

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Hi peeps.

I am just about to do up my kitchen and currently have a gas hob but want to change it to either induction or ceramic but have found that most of these are around the 32amp mark.

I have a dedicated 32a fuse running to my cooker via a cooker switch (about half a meter from where the hob is to go) and wondered what my options were for installation? There is a fused spur already under the hob for the spark in the gas hood but know that would probably not be in play for a hob, even if the overall fuse for my sockets is 32a.

If I ended up getting a spark in, would he have to run a new dedicated 32a run to the hob or something else?
Is there a way of upping the fuse in the fuse board, and then having some sort of two way fused switch at 32a each where the old switch was and then split off to the oven and hob that way?

Thanks ,
Steve
 
As above.
Not likely to need extra supply. That would mean you would have two circuits capable of 32amp.
Is it just a standard oven. And do you know the cable size .

For both posts lol, to slow
 
A 13 A fused spur would not be appropriate or adaptable to supply a normal hob.
As Handy Sparks has said if you have an easy run (behind cabinets perhaps) from the oven connection to the hob location, then changing the current cooker outlet plate for the oven to a dual outlet plate and running a cable from there to the hob would be the easiest solution.

Induction or Ceramic hob Dual outlet cooker plate3 - EletriciansForums.net
 
Thanks for your replies everyone.

32a? Yes they all seem to be up that high. Zanussi ZEM6740FBA 59cm Induction Hob - Black - http://ao.com/product/zem6740fba-zanussi-induction-hob-black-29358-39.aspx like this one, under installation at the bottom.

The existing oven is a Whirlpool double electric oven which I am guessing would pull quite a lot. I am also not sure of the cable size (tucked away behind oven at the mo) but it is larger than normal, maybe 4mm or close to it.

I initially thought I could just split it at the cooker switch but then thought that if both appliances were running at full whack, they would pull over the 32a. Is the not correct?

Thanks again for your responses.
Steve.
 
...but then thought that if both appliances were running at full whack, they would pull over the 32a. Is the not correct?

You may well be able to draw more than 32A for a short period of time. But neither the oven or the hob will require full power for more than a few minutes. In practice, with the typical diversity of cooking appliances in a domestic kitchen, you won't have a problem. After all, if you push more than 7kW into a kitchen for long periods, it'll get pretty warm.
 
We changed from gas hob to induction hob a year ago. My wife (who does almost all the cooking) was skeptical, but the hob needed replacing anyway, so I thought it was worth a try. She now says that the induction hob is better than gas. It's just as controllable but it's faster to heat up a pan.

Ours is an AEG HK654200FB. In max heat mode it'll run a ring at 4kW, but only for a limited time, after which, the pan's hot and it drops the power back if it's not already turned down.


ps, only downside of an electric hob is that you can't cook on it in a power cut. So I bought a camping gas burner for £12 for use as a backup.
 
Thanks again for your replies. The reason I want a ceramic or induction hob is that my kitchen is very limited for space and so having a worktop that I can effectively work on swell would be great. Plus I'm going for the new modern look with a revealed brick effect wall so think the gloss black glass look will be better than aluminium gas.

Thanks for your advice, I know which way I'll go now. One last question if I may, I am not a qualified electrician but do know my way somewhat around electrics, if only the practical side.

1. Has anyone seen if you can get a double cooker switch so that I can have both appliances switchable (and theoretically take away my need for splitting it it a junction box)

2. In splitting this cable, SHOULD it be signed off by someone as part of any regulations or anything?

Thanks again, I really appreciate your advice.
Steve
 
ps, only downside of an electric hob is that you can't cook on it in a power cut. So I bought a camping gas burner for £12 for use as a backup.
I take it that you keep the camping stove on the work top at all times! You can never be too ready!

To the OP. The two appliances can be switched through the same and then using a outlet plate as post 5 from Richard (nice bit of kit that is). If you are to isolate for a problem I can't think of a reason why you would need the other still working so both isolated will work and look more pleasing.
 
2. In splitting this cable, SHOULD it be signed off by someone as part of any regulations or anything?

Hi Steve, this will likely be Minor Works and so will not require reporting to your Local Building Control, but you should read up and confirm. There is a Minor Works form here in the Resources section that'll give you a start. Hopefully my attempt to copy and paste the link works :
MEIWC - PDF form (editable) - BS7671 Amendment 3:2015 model form - https://www.electriciansforums.co.uk/resources/meiwc-pdf-form-editable-bs7671-amendment-3-2015-model-form.110/

In #7 you mentioned you may have 4mm2 cable feeding the existing ovens. This is only ok for 32A if it's installed a particular way (clipped direct). Hopefully you've actually got 6mm2 and this will be better to handle the proposed change.
 
Hopefully you've actually got 6mm2 and this will be better to handle the proposed change.
Thanks. To be honest, now that I think about it, only really having done stuff with 2.5 and 1.5 T&E in the past, I would said it was more like triple the thickness of normal 2.5 rather than just double so I reckon it might be 6mm. I will check when the oven is pulled out the carcus next.
Thanks for the form too. I will go through it tonight and have a look.
 
Thanks for the form too. I will go through it tonight and have a look.
The form is a certificate for the work that you/whoever has done complies with BS7671. To be able to fill the form in you would need
1. to know what the requirements of BS7671 are
and
2. Have a set of calibrated test instruments that can undertake all of the tests.

I'm guessing that you might not have either of these!

However, doing the work you describe, in your own kitchen, is not notifiable to anybody. Just get on with it, safely./
 
I have just removed the cooker switch plate and found that there is already two sets of wires coming out of it. Is this likely (I will check for definite) that one goes to the oven (obviously) but that the other one goes to the fused spur that the hob was hard wired into (currently used on the gas hob for spark ignitor)? Personally (and I'm not a spark) but if I was and doing the original install, I would probably have wired it this way in case joe public decided to just wire up an electric job to the spur like I'm asking about in the future as a safety precaution? Or is this common and the second wire normally goes somewhere else?

Induction or Ceramic hob IMG_4513.JPG - EletriciansForums.net

Induction or Ceramic hob IMG_4513.JPG - EletriciansForums.net
 
Scrap that last question, just tested and there is continuity between the cooker switch and the fused spur so it looks like its all ok. Now before I do anything, would it be acceptable to just get rid of the 13a fused spur and put in a normal junction box and hard wire the new hob to that?
 

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