Discuss Infinate prime alarm system-connecting to phone line in the Security Alarms, Door Entry and CCTV (Public) area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Evening all,

I have just fitted this alarm and everything is working fine except for the pstn module. When connected I cannot phone out from the telephone, or get the alarm to make a service call. I have run a twisted pair from the incoming bt to the board and another pair ifrom the first slave to the alarm panel. I have checked all the manuals and trying to get through to customer support but little joy as yet.

Can anyone shed any light as I am slowly pullin my hair out. I am sure I have done something silly and need a fresh start to spot the error. I was led to believe with this alarm on the event of an alarm it should be able to contact several numbers to inform them of the alarms.

Thank you
 
what connections have you made to the phone line? should just be into 2 and 5 (or A and B).
 
It is a master and slave combined, I connected to the A and B on the incoming line to the alarm panel, and from 2 and 5 from the slave to the other telephone connections into the alarm panel
 
not familiar with the infinite gear, but would not expect more than 1 connection into the phone line.
 
The vague instructions just said from the incoming bt to the panel, then from the first slave to the other phone connections on the pstn modules
thanks for your replys
 
Just a really stupid one but are you using the proper Krone tool to punch down the cable on to the phone sockets I've had a few people recently wondering why their DIY BT extension socket didn't work after they punched the cables down with a terminal screwdriver and wrecked the Krone blocks
 
it should have just a single 2 wire connection going to the master incoming BT connection box, when the alarm goes then the phone if picked up would have a modem dialing tone coming out, it has a basic dial up modem which connects it by dialing a number, then the alarm panel codes in to the alarm company server by sending an identification number(user name) and an access pin, the server then polls the alarm and the alarm comes back with an information code such as "fault" "alarm" or "user pass override" some also report "service" or "tamper" the information transmitted contains the saved/loaded identifier information such as address, post code, time and date stamp and household telephone number, the software on the server at the alarm company then communicates with the front end system and an alarm message pops up at a call centre with more information that they have there, they will make a phonecall to the address and if nobody answers, or if they do not know the verbal password and information, the call centre will hang up and contact the police....or the fire service, whichever type of alarm it is.....

the alarm unit will dial in a service call now and then when the line is not in use, if this does not happen then the alarm company will call up the householder...
 
Hi Gents

I have fitted a couple of these alarms and they have so far been very reliable.

I'm not sure how you are wiring this, as your post makes little technical sense. The instructions that come with these things are confusing and complicated to say the least!

Firstly, do you have broadband....? If so you will need an ADSL filter specifically designed for an alarm panel;

Secware ADSL Micro Filter [SW3011] - £4.19 : Security Warehouse. Security Supplies. Cheap Prices for Texecom, Pyronix, Visonic, Scantronic, Honeywell, Online Security Products, Trade Prices, Cheap Suppliers of Texecom, Honeywell, Pyronix, Visonic, Sc

1. white (5) and Blue (2) from your BT phone socket
2. Pass these through an alarm ADSL filter as above. Secure the filter inside the panel, there is plenty of room.
3. connect to the 'line in' input inside your panel
4. Dont worry about the other terminal (to telephone)

you will need to activate the PTSN module inside the alarm via the menu.

Beware that from memory, there is a possibility that the 'line in' 'line out' are around the wrong way, (factory error) so if it doesnt work first time, swap them around.

As I said, these are pretty good alarms, however they are generally a pro install, so you may find the menu complicated. Dont be scared to give their techies a call if you get stuck...

My only gripe with these systems is that they have no engineering mode, so when the batteries die (around 18mths), or if you have to do any repairs etc, the alarm will activate upon tamper and you have to be ready with the fob to turn it off. A silly gripe I know, however it's the first alarm I have come accross with no engineer mode and it annoys the neigbours when you have 6+ batteries to replace!!!

Good Luck
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi Gents

I have fitted a couple of these alarms and they have so far been very reliable.

I'm not sure how you are wiring this, as your post makes little technical sense. The instructions that come with these things are confusing and complicated to say the least!

Disconnect it all and start again following my instructions...

Firstly, do you have broadband....? If so you will need an ADSL filter specifically designed for an alarm panel;
Secware ADSL Micro Filter [SW3011] - £4.19 : Security Warehouse. Security Supplies. Cheap Prices for Texecom, Pyronix, Visonic, Scantronic, Honeywell, Online Security Products, Trade Prices, Cheap Suppliers of Texecom, Honeywell, Pyronix, Visonic, Sc

The alarm should technically become the first component that the main telephone line enters; i.e the line should be disconnected at the master telephone point, routed to the 'line in' input inside the panel, routed back out via the 'to telephone' output in the panel and then back into the telephone point as the main feed to your phones. The wires you require are white (5) and Blue (2). This basically prevents someone interupting the alarm communicator by picking up the handset in the event of an activation.

However, this creates problems if you have broadband, as everything needs to be filtered and if you have two ADSL filters on your line, (one for the alarm and the other for the phone line) it doesnt like it. So unless you are keeping the crown jewels in your house, wire it as follows;


1. white (5) and Blue (2) from your BT phone socket
2. Pass these through the ADSL, as above. Secure the filter inside the panel, there is plenty of room.
3. connect to the 'line in' input inside your panel
4. Dont worry about the other terminal (to telephone) unless you are wiring it as my first paragraph.

Note: If you are wiring the panel as the first component, you will need to wire it from the master BT socket.

you will need to activate the PTSN module inside the alarm via the menu.

Beware that from memory, there is a possibility that the 'line in' 'line out' are around the wrong way, (factory error) so if it doesnt work first time, swap them around.

As I said, these are pretty good alarms, however they are generally a pro install, so you may find the menu complicated. Dont be scared to give their techies a call if you get stuck...

My only gripe with these systems is that they have no engineering mode, so when the batteries die (around 18mths), or if you have to do any repairs etc, the alarm will activate upon tamper and you have to be ready with the fob to turn it off. A silly gripe I know, however it's the first alarm I have come accross with no engineer mode and it annoys the neigbours when you have 6+ batteries to replace!!!

Good Luck

Your post seems to lack knowledge of the PSTN and the available connectivity methods of ADSL / VDSL and normal phones it should also be pointed out that tampering with the line coming into the NTE5 jack is an offence and the NTE5 must be the primary connection point in any premises as this is the point the BT engineer will test to should a fault be reported it is also why the front plate is split as removing this should disconnect all the extensions or devices within the premises

If the NTE5 jack has an NTE2005 ADSL filter or the newer BTVDSL (BT Infinity) interstitial plate fitted then the ADSL filter you mention will not be required as you will be able to take a filtered line to your panel from these devices

Thought needs to be given to your method where you may inadvertently create interference on the ADSL and as a consequence reduce the customers overall internet speed ( something Sky engineers seem to be good at when connecting up their boxes to the PSTN ) and customers will hate you for it
 
My only gripe with these systems is that they have no engineering mode, so when the batteries die (around 18mths), or if you have to do any repairs etc, the alarm will activate upon tamper and you have to be ready with the fob to turn it off. A silly gripe I know, however it's the first alarm I have come accross with no engineer mode and it annoys the neigbours when you have 6+ batteries to replace!!!

I have one of these alarms and it's been very reliable, but as you say, changing the battery in the sensors hasn't been thought out well by the designers. There isn't even anything in the installation manual about changing the batteries!

What I find is a quieter way to do it is to delete a sensor (on the main panel), change the battery, then re-initialise it to the same zone number. All the settings (including the name) remain the same, so no faffing about entering the many and diverse options for the zone, as it is all still in there.

Hope this helps.
 
You'd have thought that bypassing a zone would make the unit 'ignore' the sensor, but on my alarm it still listens to the tamper switch, hence my method of deleting the zone and re-enabling it. Perhaps mine has an older firmware version than yours?
 
you have to save settings when you bypass a zone, have not got the prime at home just fitted 4 units about 1 year ago, ring the teach at the risco group as they will be able to do a frimware up date,
 

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