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It's an adaptable box being used as a joint box, as far as I can see that is most likely a lighting circuit in there so no you should not connect a socket to it (I assume you actually meant socket when you say plug?)
 
I'm guessing there is a bathroom below that.
 
it has been known for a 13A socket in a loft being connected into the lighting circuit wher there is no socket cabling available. if it's for some low consumption equipment e.g. aerial amp. the correct way would be to fit a 5A round pin socket and fit corresponding plugh to equipment. not good pracice though, IMO.
 
it has been known for a 13A socket in a loft being connected into the lighting circuit wher there is no socket cabling available. if it's for some low consumption equipment e.g. aerial amp. the correct way would be to fit a 5A round pin socket and fit corresponding plugh to equipment. not good pracice though, IMO.

The correct way is to extend a power circuit in to the loft to supply the the socket.
 
The correct way is to extend a power circuit in to the loft to supply the the socket.
obviously, but there are occasions where this may only be possible by chasing out from floor to ceiling on the upstairs floor. if it were me and the customer declined the disruption, I'd walk away, but others might take the easy option. bad practice, yes, but unsafe, maybe not. i remember my mother plugging the iron into a light socket using as bayonet adaptor. we wouldn't do that now, but was it inherently unsafe? obviously in that case the iron wasn't earthed, so yes it was unsafe, but did any mothers get injured. who knows.
 
We allow certain fixed low-power things to be attached to lighting circuits that are not lights, the obvious examples are extractor fans and smoke alarms. So while it is not the best approach if it were for something small and fixed like an aerial amplifier, and no practical access to the ring power was available, then putting it on a 3A FCU or similar hard-wired means of isolation from the lights might be tolerable.

But the the practice of putting general purpose sockets on light circuits is really a bad idea!
 
It's an adaptable box being used as a joint box, as far as I can see that is most likely a lighting circuit in there so no you should not connect a socket to it (I assume you actually meant socket when you say plug?)
It's an adaptable box being used as a joint box, as far as I can see that is most likely a lighting circuit in there so no you should not connect a socket to it (I assume you actually meant socket when you say plug?)
[/Q

that’s what I meant :)z. What’s the best way to get a double socket inst
it has been known for a 13A socket in a loft being connected into the lighting circuit wher there is no socket cabling available. if it's for some low consumption equipment e.g. aerial amp. the correct way would be to fit a 5A round pin socket and fit corresponding plugh to equipment. not good pracice though, IMO.

Maybe 1000-1500w coming from the double socket that would be installed. I tried phoning round but no one seems to want to do anything just now. One guy that did quoted 550 which I thought was a bit steep after doing research on internet. I know you are tradesman and tbh the best and safest way is to get a fully qualified spark to do it but at the same time don’t want to be spending stupid money on something that is maybe simple.
 
if you have an airing cupboard or a fitted wardrobe/or any fllor to ceiling like enclosure, it's no big deal to spur off a socket circuit under the floor
 
£550 sounds really steep, but without seeing the situation it is hard for anyone to give a realistic quote because they need to know how easy it would be to do as mostly you are paying for skilled labour, the parts ought to be moderate cost here.

In many cases in the attic you can see the cables for the 13A sockets in the rooms below going down the wall areas, if this is the case in your situation then you could add a double socket in to the existing ring by taking one of the 2.5mm twin & earth cable from an existing socket up to the attic while pulling a new length of 2.5mm T&E up with it so you can put a socket (or two) in the joint(s) between old & new in the attic, and reconnect the new length to the existing socket you opened up.

You must follow a safe process to make sure the power is off before working on any of the circuits, safest without proper test tools is to cut power to the whole house.

Also if you are doing this you need to make sure the ring is completed so each outlet has two wires attached going along to the next, etc.

Finally you would be well advised to get a socket tester first. They cost about £10 for a basic model, or around £50 for one that will verify low earth resistance. They are not a match for the sort of tester a professional sparky would use (they cost in the £500-1000 region) but will find obvious mistakes such as L & N swapped, etc.
 
In many cases in the attic you can see the cables for the 13A sockets in the rooms below going down the wall areas,
extremely rare in a 2 storey house. the cables for upstairs sockets cme from below in 99 cases out of 100.
 
£550 sounds really steep, but without seeing the situation it is hard for anyone to give a realistic quote because they need to know how easy it would be to do as mostly you are paying for skilled labour, the parts ought to be moderate cost here.

In many cases in the attic you can see the cables for the 13A sockets in the rooms below going down the wall areas, if this is the case in your situation then you could add a double socket in to the existing ring by taking one of the 2.5mm twin & earth cable from an existing socket up to the attic while pulling a new length of 2.5mm T&E up with it so you can put a socket (or two) in the joint(s) between old & new in the attic, and reconnect the new length to the existing socket you opened up.

You must follow a safe process to make sure the power is off before working on any of the circuits, safest without proper test tools is to cut power to the whole house.

Also if you are doing this you need to make sure the ring is completed so each outlet has two wires attached going along to the next, etc.

Finally you would be well advised to get a socket tester first. They cost about £10 for a basic model, or around £50 for one that will verify low earth resistance. They are not a match for the sort of tester a professional sparky would use (they cost in the £500-1000 region) but will find obvious mistakes such as L & N swapped, etc.

just had a guy quote £100 but when someone quotes me different prices like that I get a voice in my head saying is he cheap because he’s a diy guy not saying diy guys are bad but you can’t beat a qualified person that has done it for years. Sometimes your paying for the knowledge and the peace of mind that it is done 100% correct and the house doesn’t burn down with an electrical fire.
 
extremely rare in a 2 storey house. the cables for upstairs sockets cme from below in 99 cases out of 100.
Good point, that would screw up my cunning plan!
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just had a guy quote £100 but when someone quotes me different prices like that I get a voice in my head saying is he cheap because he’s a diy guy not saying diy guys are bad but you can’t beat a qualified person that has done it for years. Sometimes your paying for the knowledge and the peace of mind that it is done 100% correct and the house doesn’t burn down with an electrical fire.
Is he a DIY guy? It is always worth asking around for quotes anyway, and that sort of price is more in line with what I might expect.

I think everyone here would agree you should get a professional to do it if you are not experienced or knowledgable yourself. Current times are a bit unusual though, so you may find a number of the professionals are furloughed at this point so less choice for quotes, etc.
 
just had a guy quote £100 but when someone quotes me different prices like that I get a voice in my head saying is he cheap because he’s a diy guy not saying diy guys are bad but you can’t beat a qualified person that has done it for years. Sometimes your paying for the knowledge and the peace of mind that it is done 100% correct and the house doesn’t burn down with an electrical fire.

Just out of interest, ask the person who has quoted £100 if you get a Minor Electrical Installation Works Certificate.
 
£100 is cheap. i would estimate that if it's a straightforward job, no chasing, 3- 4 hours + £20 materials. total around. £150. obviously more if not so straightforward.
 
...you can’t beat a qualified person that has done it for years. Sometimes your paying for the knowledge and the peace of mind that it is done 100% correct and the house doesn’t burn down with an electrical fire.
If I were you... I'd try to find someone that is recommended, by someone who's opinion you trust. I don't trust anyone, regardless of their qualifications !
 
There's blue and brown going into one connector block so I'm guessing lighting. Also looks like there is writing on the browns on the right hand side.
 
if you have an airing cupboard or a fitted wardrobe/or any fllor to ceiling like enclosure, it's no big deal to spur off a socket circuit under the floor
If you have an airing cupboard, chances are you have power in there for an immersion heater. That's what I did - there is a radial circuit which only had the 'immersion heater' (which no longer exists since the water tank was removed) socket on it, which I extended up into the loft, then back down into another cupboard (so I can power an outside light), and also across and down into my 'server cupboard' in my office. Nice and easy.
 

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