Discuss is it ok to put lights and sockets on the same rcd in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

W

wilgreen27

I changed a consumer unit today and I put the lights and sockets on the same side as the cables were the shortest I've ever worked with , didnt want to connector block ? Not the best situation. What u think guys?
 
Board configuration all depends on what the property and layout is. On a single storey dwelling with one socket circuit and one lighting circuit it is not advisable to place both on the same rcd. On a house with multiple circuits i personally tend to put the downstairs lighting with the top floor sockets and vice-versa. That way at least each floor still has some operating lighting/ power unless you have a total supply failure. You need to assess each property on its own merits.
 
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Using Wagos, crimps, chock blocks should really be last resort only. Bit bodgy in my book although nothing in the regs to say you can't use them as long as they are mechanically sound and labelled accordingly.
 
Using Wagos, crimps, chock blocks should really be last resort only. Bit bodgy in my book although nothing in the regs to say you can't use them as long as they are mechanically sound and labelled accordingly.
So its better to have an entire house pitched into darkness in the event of an RCD trip than have connectors in a consumer unit??!! hmmmm
and yes you are right...there is nothing in the regs to say that you cant use electrical connectors to connect electrical cables together inside an enclosure....we'd all be a bit stuffed if there was. Never seen anything about me having to label my crimps in there mind...
 
So its better to have an entire house pitched into darkness in the event of an RCD trip than have connectors in a consumer unit??!! hmmmm
and yes you are right...there is nothing in the regs to say that you cant use electrical connectors to connect electrical cables together inside an enclosure....we'd all be a bit stuffed if there was. Never seen anything about me having to label my crimps in there mind...
Well if you configure the board correctly like i said ya house shouldn't be plunged into total darkness!
 
Fair point...I didn't see that post but there will be cases where in order to do this you're gonna need connectors in the board. Cant see anything wrong with it personally.
 
Nearly every cu change i do results in one or usually more cables needing extending, i use through crimps, you can get the cables the right length too then to make it nice and neat and put circuits where you want them instead of where they'll reach to
 
Using Wagos, crimps, chock blocks should really be last resort only. Bit bodgy in my book although nothing in the regs to say you can't use them as long as they are mechanically sound and labelled accordingly.

A last resort yes but a bit bodgy?!

How else do you properly configure a consumer unit as described in the OP?

I wouldn't think twice about using either, it's what they are designed for!!
 
I'd choose crimping over connector blocks. As for not owning a crimper, I'm sure pliers do the same job!

A solid core cable inline crimped with a pair of pliers sounds like a recipe for disaster to me. I have to say im still not 100% confident in the use of crimps on solid conductors. I can usually rip em apart if I pull hard enough. I prefer wagos, not as neat but quicker and I reckon safer.
 
I would never alter the design from ideal simply because of cable length. I equally have had problems with through crimps on solids, end up giving them a huge tug to feel confident. I have no issue using a connector block, where, appropriate, once you have a look at the neutral bar, earth bar and all the connections on the breakers there really is no difference between a connector block and these other connections inside the CU. Its a maintenance joint just like all the other ones in there that should be checked for tightness in the appropriate period between tests.
 
I think my point has been proved. Pliers to crimp joints.... thats why 8 out of ten boards where i find crimp joints usually either has open ring continuity or excessive Zs values or even no earth at all on circuits caused by poor jointing at the board or point where cables are painfully short. I would like to see how many attempt to use a ratchet crimper inside a small consumer unit or enclosure and actually pull of a sound connection or even bother to verify it once done!
 
I think my point has been proved. Pliers to crimp joints.... thats why 8 out of ten boards where i find crimp joints usually either has open ring continuity or excessive Zs values or even no earth at all on circuits caused by poor jointing at the board or point where cables are painfully short. I would like to see how many attempt to use a ratchet crimper inside a small consumer unit or enclosure and actually pull of a sound connection or even bother to verify it once done!

I said they are no good under strain. I do not for a second believe that 80% or even 10% of crimp joints you come across have no continuity/very high resistance. If thats what you are implying.
 
For what its worth I own and use two sets of 'proper' ratchet crimpers, and yes, I pull them afterwards, and test them, and they are fine, and I've never tried to do it with pliers.

When I see crimpers with jaws like this, it does make me wonder if pliers would do the same job!
l_ratchet%20picture%201.jpg
 

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