Issues with wiring up a dimmer and switch for LED downlights in series

[Mr Ziggy]

Hi all

I am a newbie from Australia to this great forum.

I need some advise with wiring up a dimmer and switch for my LED Down lights in series.

I have run a mock up from the extension cord with some success. But still have issues.

The dimmer instructions diagram indicates one red connector from the dimmer to 1 on the switch and the other to the neutral wire connected at the inactive loop connection point.

I did that but still have issues as it hums when installed.
Here is the diagram from the manufacturer.


I have tried a few options but something is wrong.

I plan to run this set up in my man cave/shed rebuild in the near future.

The voltage is 240volts @ 15 Amps

The dimmer is a Diginet Rotary LED Dimmer

Diginet Rotary LED Dimmer

Mains Voltage Dimmer Optimised for LED Lighting. The Diginet MEDM LED Dimmer is a dedicated LED dimmer designed to achieve smooth, low range dimming down to just 2W of power. This is unlike old dimmers which typically only have a minimum load of 20W or 50W and therefore often do not work well in...

reductionrevolution.com.au

the downlights are

NLS 20094 | 13W DIMMABLE 3000K WARM WHITE LED DOWNLIGHT​

NLS 20094 | 13W Dimmable 3000K Warm White LED Downlight - NATIONAL LIGHT SOURCES

Save on NLS 20094 | 13W Dimmable 3000K Warm White LED Downlight today, Why pay more? We offer Fast Delivery at the lowest prices, shop safely with Australia's leading Online Electrical Wholesaler.

www.sparkydirect.com.au

Any help from you guys would be greatly appreciated.

It eating at me not being able to work out this maze.

Thanks in advance.

Mr Ziggy ?

 

[littlespark]

Hello.
It’s a bit of a fine art trying to dim LED lights, as not all are compatible with each other.

in your case, I think the dimmer is only rated at 12v, whereas your input voltage is 240vAC.
I’m afraid you’ve fried your dimmer. Surprised the humming noise isn’t smoke and crackles.

 

[Mr Ziggy]

Hello.
It’s a bit of a fine art trying to dim LED lights, as not all are compatible with each other.

in your case, I think the dimmer is only rated at 12v, whereas your input voltage is 240vAC.
I’m afraid you’ve fried your dimmer. Surprised the humming noise isn’t smoke and crackles.

Thanks Littespark for the reply.

Could that be the case. You sparkies know better i guess.

On the specs it says:

Specifications - Diginet MEDM LED Dimmer​

Power Range	2-400W (see data sheet below for details)
Voltage	220-240 V AC

No where on the documentations does it say 12 volts.

I am puzzled.

School me on this please.

Look forward to learning heaps.

Mr Ziggy

 

[Mr Ziggy]

also found this little write up that says:

"...So what we need to do to install the dimmer, is remove one of the switch mechanisms and put the dimmer into where it was. And just use your pliers to pop that out. As you’ll see, the dimmer just clips in nice and firm. You’ll see on the back of the light switch here there are a few different terminals. So the one in the middle there, that’s your common terminal, that’s where your permanent power supply goes. It’s always 240 volts....

 

[littlespark]

Sorry, my mistake. I was reading 12v off the side of the dimmer in the picture.

Its early morning here, give me a break, lol.

In that case, have a look at your wiring diagrams.
your live feed goes to C of switch, then L1 of switch to input of dimmer.
Output of dimmer should then go to your light fittings, without being connected to the switch at all, separate connector.
Neutral from lights to neutral feed. Again, not connected to the switch itself.

The loop terminal on the switch could be used as one of these separate connections, as there’s no interconnection between it and the other parts of the switch.
There is no need to connect anything to L2, especially not the neutral.

 

[Mr Ziggy]

Sorry, my mistake. I was reading 12v off the side of the dimmer in the picture.

Its early morning here, give me a break, lol.

In that case, have a look at your wiring diagrams.
your live feed goes to C of switch, then L1 of switch to input of dimmer.
Output of dimmer should then go to your light fittings, without being connected to the switch at all, separate connector.
Neutral from lights to neutral feed. Again, not connected to the switch itself.

The loop terminal on the switch could be used as one of these separate connections, as there’s no interconnection between it and the other parts of the switch.
There is no need to connect anything to L2, especially not the neutral.

ok
like what was shown in B


still does not dim nor turn of now .

Need help. ?

Mr Ziggy

 

[Timbo]

Your dimmer is probably fried, connecting across L and N.
You have connected the light straight to incoming L feed.
Take the light connection out of C and put in a separate connector with the output of the dimmer.

 

[Mr Ziggy]

Your dimmer is probably fried, connecting across L and N.
You have connected the light straight to incoming L feed.
Take the light connection out of C and put in a separate connector with the output of the dimmer.

Timbo
Thanks for you reply.

Just to get it clear, like this ??

 

[littlespark]

No mate.
Both your diagrams were wrong.

The dimmer must not be connected to neutral. It is a switch like any other.
live in, and live out.
Connected between live and neutral, your dimmer has snapped, crackled and popped it’s way into the electronic afterlife.

 

[Timbo]

Like this (excuse the rough edit):

 

[Mr Ziggy]

Your the man ! ?

Its Black and White now, thanks for being so clear Timbo.

Have a great day buddy !

I learnt heaps ?

 

[Mr Ziggy]

only one got fried ?

Thanks again

 

[Mr Ziggy]

So just to cap this off for others who might need it, it looks like this



Cheers
What a lovely day

Thanks again to Timbo and the crew at EF for the help !