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B

boon

Hi all,

im new in here and have been really push for time at work lately so not had the time to try and research this that much.
basically i was hoping to put in sone led lights at the top and bottom of my stairs at home.....similar to this type Lighting Superstore - 33440 17 20 1 Pack Of 6 - 1 pack of 6 metal LED lights for fitting into
but they would be on the wall and run say 3 vertically just above skirting say 100mm centres. creating a column of 3 lights at bottom middle and top of stairs.
would this be a difficult job for an electician to wire up?(mains as apposed to plug in)ive seen similar kits in B&Q but are plug in, can they be changed to hardwired?
the walls are plasterboard so im wondering what kind of access and damage would be needed to get these working?

hope ive been clear

thanks in advance
 
you will need a power source but its not a huge job as long as there is power nearby and somewhere to hide the transformer (under the stairs cupboard?)
 
there is the light switch that im guessing they could get power from.
how easy is running the wires in exisiting plasterboarded walls? im gussing holes required etc?
 
They need to be run off a socket because of the plug in transformer , maybe under the stairs ? but then you need to be able to switch them on/off which will be a pain ..

theses thing are a right pain of a job unless fitting on a new build or refurb .....
to fit them, i would have a sw live from the switch in the hall to a socket under the stairs , and a single neutral off the lighting circuit / fuse board which is normally under the stairs too ..

you will have to damage the plaster work if you want them fitting

Ste
 
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Not too sure about running lighting circuits into a 13A socket outlet below stairs.
What happens when some one starts thinking they can run an extension lead out the front door? For a start there's probably no RCD protection behind it.

Personally I would crop the plug in PSU off and source a unit that could be housed in a cheapo ABS casing and hardwired into the lighting circuit, maybe stashed (sorry securely fixed) under the landing floor boards.It only needs to be capable of outputting 100mA but don't be tempted by a real cheapo unregulated job. Although it may say 12v output it could swing anywhere up to 16+ volts which could give the lamphead circuitry a headache.

An alternative switching/supply option would be to use one of those radio controlled socket adaptors. LED pin lights aren't going to be drawing any appreciable current (they state 60mA) so extending the supply flex from the adaptor should be no problem. Have a mooch round Maplins for a simple and suitable 2 pole male/female connector, couple of quid at the most. The transmitter unit to switch the socket can be wall mounted with a velcro pad wherever is convenient.

Just a thought, how are you intending to actually mount them in the plasterboard? I'm guessing that they'll need a neat circular hole 20 or so milimetres in diam but how are they secured??. Could be tricky little buggers
 
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to be honest its more just an idea i had havent thought it thru that far.
i was considering even putting a hole in plasterboard and a drop of silicone to hold in place. i had thought of putting a bit of timber architrave with hollow back down the staircase runner to carry the wires and just cut small hole in plasterboard to run cable up the wall from it? i could get the power from the lightswitch for the stair lights? just add another switch for the LEDs and run cable under stair carpet to hide transformer under the stairs?
 
a bit like this?

REVISED DRAWING
 

Attachments

  • Drawing1 Model (1).pdf
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to be honest its more just an idea i had havent thought it thru that far.
Nice idea though, bit o' bling but I think they look rather good if done well and with an aesthetic eye on what the finished install will look like. If you go for it, wire them up and do a dry run so you can div about with spacing/overlapping them etc and before you commit to dynamiting holes in your wall finishes, :D
i was considering even putting a hole in plasterboard and a drop of silicone to hold in place.
Probably the only option without getting wrapped up in working out some complicated fixing solution. Beauty of LED's is that they are unlikely to fault/blow before it's next due for re-decorating so a thin bead of "No More Brains" or sillyc*** sealant is as good as anything. Heat certainly won't be one of your probs to consider at least! :)

...i had thought of putting a bit of timber architrave with hollow back down the staircase runner to carry the wires and just cut small hole in plasterboard to run cable up the wall from it?

Yep, can see where you're going with that, plenty of moulding/architrave styles that could be planted harmoniously on the existing stair strings, and probably plenty that might make it look a bit ....----y spanky...for want of a better term. Cabling to the lights on the string opposite the wall can easily be run under the stair carpet and tucked tight into the back of the tread where it meets the rising part and held with a few discrete/low profile wire staples/clips. Just so long as it looks pukka when finished up, the whole attraction about these things is the sleek flawless minimalist line that isn't instantly ruined by visible cabling, ragged saw/drill marks, tell-tale bumps in the carpet, spurious gaps and awkward 'meetings' of mitred joints. Definitely a safety plus though particularly in a fire situation to have the stairway illuminated. :D

..i could get the power from the lightswitch for the stair lights? just add another switch for the LEDs and run cable under stair carpet to hide transformer under the stairs?

It's just that bit about a standard 13A socket being tacked onto a lighting circuit that bothers me. If I came across it under somebody's stairwell I'd have to ram a fist in me mouth to stifle the reflex impulse to fall out of the cupboard in fits of roaring laughter!:rolleyes:
 
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Not too sure about running lighting circuits into a 13A socket outlet below stairs.
What happens when some one starts thinking they can run an extension lead out the front door? For a start there's probably no RCD protection behind it.

Personally I would crop the plug in PSU off and source a unit that could be housed in a cheapo ABS casing and hardwired into the lighting circuit, maybe stashed (sorry securely fixed) under the landing floor boards.It only needs to be capable of outputting 100mA but don't be tempted by a real cheapo unregulated job. Although it may say 12v output it could swing anywhere up to 16+ volts which could give the lamphead circuitry a headache.

An alternative switching/supply option would be to use one of those radio controlled socket adaptors. LED pin lights aren't going to be drawing any appreciable current (they state 60mA) so extending the supply flex from the adaptor should be no problem. Have a mooch round Maplins for a simple and suitable 2 pole male/female connector, couple of quid at the most. The transmitter unit to switch the socket can be wall mounted with a velcro pad wherever is convenient.

Just a thought, how are you intending to actually mount them in the plasterboard? I'm guessing that they'll need a neat circular hole 20 or so milimetres in diam but how are they secured??. Could be tricky little buggers


I started a previous thread about running a socket off the lighting circuit , and the general consensus was that it was ok for certain uses , tv boosters , led,s ect , you could mark it up "lighting only" and put it on a rcd skt ..

cant see a problem myself but as you have said , there are other ways the more professional of us may wish to take :)

ATB

Ste
 
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Nice drawing Boon,:) ah I see 3 lamps in a vertical arrangement, I was thinking of them laid out along the length of the stair in opposed or staggered pairs. (Your arrangement def more Star Trek, have 'em triggered from proximity detectors upstairs and down with a five minute delayed OFF function for the 'Gucci' version)

I started a previous thread about running a socket off the lighting circuit , and the general consensus was that it was ok for certain uses , tv boosters , led,s ect , you could mark it up "lighting only" and put it on a rcd skt ..

cant see a problem myself but as you have said , there are other ways the more professional of us may wish to take :)

ATB

Ste

Oh I know what your saying Stevie and being pragmatic about it, it probably could be construed to be safe 'enough' but there's always that electrical "what if....." factor that stalks every electrician (or should!). :D It sounds like a bit of compromised design on the part of the manufacturer by using a plug in PSU that's produced the anomoly. A non standard dedicated socket I could go for maybe, i.e. something that couldn't be utilised for connection of hand held eqpt such as a bit of plastic conduit run to a Klik rose but then it wouldn't fit the PSU. looks like there's no elegant solution to it.
 
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thanks for the responses so far.

this idea doesnt have to use a plug in system does it? what and where could the power be taken from? would an exisiting light switch be enough? and just add in a seperate switch for the leds?
the transformer under the stairs was only somewhere to hide the trans unit and not to plug it in

not sure im being clear here guys, sorry. im new to this and not really upto speed with electrics
 
Hi Boon, just been reading this thread and sometimes my brain goes slightly off the norm. Where is your cu and has it got any spare ways. If it is under the stairs and has a spare way a dedicated single socket outlet protected by a 6amp (or less) mcb could be installed specifically for the plug in transformer for the led lighting.

Just a thought.
 
sadly the cu is in a kitchen cupboard so would be a bit more tricky to get the wires thru.

on a side not is there a good place to get these LED's? and could you cut the plug off the plug in ones to make them hardwired? or has anyone seen the designated hardwired versions?
 
Another newbie here. I have a similar dilemma. Installing string of ten LED LV lights, powered from a socket. Is it possible to create a fused spur from an existing ring final socket outlet, and incorporate 2 way switching at top and bottom of the staircase?
 
thanks for the responses so far.

this idea doesnt have to use a plug in system does it?

Better that it wasn't but you have to work with what you've got. **aplins do something like this. A 240-12vdc desktop psu with a flexed mains cable rather than the moulded plug 'n case combination.
Variable Voltage 1200mA Regulated Desk Top Adaptor > Maplin

what and where could the power be taken from? would an exisiting light switch be enough? and just add in a seperate switch for the leds?
the transformer under the stairs was only somewhere to hide the trans unit and not to plug it in...

Just crop the plug off and bring your neutral and switch-wire to a JB spliced into the lighting feed that comes up from your consumer unit below. (usually somewhere at the top of the landing) It's a pretty small unit and even that is over spec at 1.2Amps and with a quick google you could certainly find something even smaller so you could stash it anywhere so long as it's accessible via a trap-board. It won't get hot as it's so under-loaded. Just double check the voltage and current rating of the supplied PSU.

Personally I'd crack open the casing, extract the guts, re-case it into a small enclosure and do it that way. Depends how handy you are with a soldering iron really and whether you can be arsed to spend half an hour or so on it but if you've got a spare casing hanging around (I do) then the job's a simple enough one. Downside-your guarantee goes south of course.
 
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sadly the cu is in a kitchen cupboard so would be a bit more tricky to get the wires thru.

on a side not is there a good place to get these LED's? and could you cut the plug off the plug in ones to make them hardwired? or has anyone seen the designated hardwired versions?

Transformers - by Ultra Leds U.K ther eare lots of others too Smart LED Transformers that can be wired in just like 12V Halogen transformers or RGB drivers if you want colour control.
 
could the power be taken from an exisiting light switch? ie exisiting power cable for the hall light orwould that now work? sorry if its a daft question :(
 
Hi boon, no you cant just tap into the switch as its more than likely that there wont be a neutral available , not meaning to be funny , but its obvious from your questions that you don't really have a clue , maybe you should call an electrician ..

ATB

Ste
 

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