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Hi,

I'm new to the forum and I am currently working on a home cinema room. I intend to use Philips Hue for the room, with 8 adjustable downlights, 4 wall lights and 2 RGB LED strips up to 10m (max with Hue.

I have pulled the ceiling down, so there is access to all cables and I will run a pelmet around the room to hide all cables.

A couple of years ago, I had work down on other areas of my house and this room was effected, the electrician on the job (bought in by the builder) had to run cables in the room (see photograph).

I have removed this wiring now, so the switch has gone, all I have is the feed into the room, connected to the feed out of the room with level wagos.

My questions are as follows;

For the lighting, I was thinking I could add additional sockets to the ring from below in the pelmet (see chase and cables to one socket), then use 13amp plugs within these sockets to each set of lights - is this realistic? For the down lights, I'd fit each with a click flow connector.

Or I was thinking I could use FCU's with a 5amp fuse for each one, so one for down lights, one for wall lights and then an additional socket for the 2 x 10m led strips (these come with a plug). Could these FCU's just be spurred from the sockets or lighting circuit?

I know I could potentially just connect them all to the lighting circuit via wagos or a junction box, but now there is not switch, if the WI-FI goes down then I won't have a way to switch them off...

Thanks
 
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  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #4
so what you are saying is that you have a lighting feed in and out of the room??
Originally in the room there was two drop lights in the centre and three wall lights, with a 3-gang switch on the wall (as shown). One switch for the drops, one for one wall light and the other for the other two wall lights on the other side of the room.

It doesn't show it in this photograph, but when the electricians did the work, they used lever wagos to rewire the 3-gang switch as it was moved when the doorway was changed. They also left a wire (see second picture above) outside of the safe zone going to a switch on the other side of the wall.

I removed all the wiring to the 3-gang switch as it was untidy, not covered or capped and running in a place I want to run network and speaker cables. I just connected the main feed into and out of the room together (for now), so at present there are no lights or switches in the room. The idea being I'd have a wireless switch and app to control Hue lighting - I guess the draw back to this is there is no way of controlling the lights if wi-fi drops, other than going into the pelmet and switch the socket/FCU to off... with no way of switching the lights on as well.

I could, in theory, place a switch to one set of lights in the corner below the wire not in the safe zone, so it would be bought into the safe zone? At least then I could control some lighting with a switch on the wall.
 
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  • #5
so what you are saying is that you have a lighting feed in and out of the room??
Just to cover off the dodgy cat6 cable, this was run in a hurry when a BT engineer came over and I asked him to put the master socket into my hub, he said he'd do it if I ran a cat6 cable from the hub to this room while he repaired the socket outside, so I did this with the intention of chasing it in as I did up the lounge.
 

buzzlightyear

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Arms
Esteemed
Or I was thinking I could use FCU's with a 5amp fuse for each one, so one for down lights, one for wall lights and then an additional socket for the 2 x 10m led strips (these come with a plug). Could these FCU's just be spurred from the sockets or lighting circuit?
Or I was thinking I could get a spark in to check what I have done .
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #8
Or I was thinking I could get a spark in to check what I have done .
Honestly, I respect the profession and I've not done anything yet, other than remove the switch - the photographs are not my work but the electrician who was hired as part of work on an extension elsewhere in the house.

As I said in my introduction, I used to work well with an electrician who said my work was really good and he was happy to check it for me and sign off, but he has moved on now. This time timescales are tight due to a new baby due and so I'm trying to do it myself in order to get the room finished.
 

buzzlightyear

-
Arms
Esteemed
As I said in my introduction, I used to work well with an electrician who said my work was really good and he was happy to check it for me and sign off, but he has moved on now. This time timescales are tight due to a new baby due and so I'm trying to do it myself in order to get the room finished.
I appreciate people saving moneys ,but how ever you have not got any insurance for the any said works or maybe damage to your self .
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #11
I appreciate people saving moneys ,but how ever you have not got any insurance for the any said works or maybe damage to your self .
I get that, people do DIY electrical work all the time without giving any consideration to what they are doing, while I am not an experience professional, I have worked on industrial power supplies in a large factory in the past and also done a lot of wiring, checked by an electrician, in my old house. This is not necessarily money saving, this is getting a room completed ASAP. I fully understand the reaction on here now and maybe this isn't the right place to ask such questions as you cannot make recommendations.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #14
why dont you just run it through a switch first then wire it in as a standard lighting circuit? can you no longer fit a switch?
I can do yes, but I figured as the Hue requires the switch to be permanently on and the wiring was left a bit messy/I'll have a pelmet/the ceiling is down, I'd take the switch out completely and house everything in the pelmet with the wireless switch/remote and app to control the lighting. I was thinking FCU for an override if the wi-fi drops out while the lights are on I can just switch it off. The led strip comes with a plug anyway, so I'd be best having a socket in the pelmet plus I need one to power a projector - with another fused spur.

Initially I chased down to the socket because I intended to move it below the cable not in the safe zone and then use the old chase to move the telephone socket up/over and run a speaker cable in for rear surrounds. The other option is to wire the down lights into a switch over there and the wall lights and just have a socket for the led's in the pelmet. The switch would be at the back of the room, so a bit out of the way, but it has to be on switched on for Hue anyway. Some people just connect the wires in the back of the box and then put the cover plate over the top of it.

The wiring you cannot see that I was left with, was a bunch of lever wagos just stuffed up into the ceiling void - while I know this doesn't break regulations, if I'd have left it and had a problem later, it would have been inaccessible! At least by bringing everything into the pelmet it is only fiddly rather than a case of pulling up boards or down ceilings.

The 13A plug was an idea on another forum but I would use a 5A fuse rather than a 13A as the LED's will only use around 110w per 10m length, so <500mA.
 
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