Loft conversion circuits

[bigbro]

Hi all,

Advice please...

I am considering having my loft converted but only want to pay for the shell and do the rest myself. Times are hard!!!

I have an old cu that is wire fuse. Will i need to change the cu box and have all the current circuits tested or is there a way to have a secondary cu from my old supply. the loft will need ring, lighting, smoke alarm on three floors to include two current levels and a shower circuit.

I realise that i will pay to have the testing done but really need to keep costs down so the wiring to the cu area i can do.

Any advice greatly received.

Brendan

 

[JulianC]

Seriously? If times are that hard perhaps waiting for your loft conversion until such time that you can afford to get it done properly might be the way to go. Be a shame to have the top of your house go up in flames for the sake of a few quid.

 

[highspark]

I'd like to know the actual rules on PART P because it wasn't long ago that an channel 4 programme was telling viewers they can do the first fix on their home aslong as they leave the second fix to a qualified spark....Whats the actual rules...Is there any point us being PART P or what? I thought it all had to be done by a qualified spark and there is to be no Third Party Signing off!!!Poster times are hard mate but people like you are making it harder for the electrical industry. In this case you would need a third party to sign the work off?

 

[Dave 85]

Hi mate. You can probably ignore all the existing circuits (you should make sure gas and water are bonded). Come out of the meter in 25mm tails (split off the existing tails with a henley block) into a 60amp switch fuse (next to meter) then run a 16mm T&E up to the loft into a 5 way RCD consumer unit. You may find when you get the building inspector to sign off that he wants to see proof that the work has been done by a part P approved contractor. You cannot just get an electrician along to 'sign it off' unless they are willing to claim they have done the work. As far as I'm aware only building control can sign off non part P work.

 

[highspark]

Hi mate. You can probably ignore all the existing circuits (you should make sure gas and water are bonded). Come out of the meter in 25mm tails (split off the existing tails with a henley block) into a 60amp switch fuse (next to meter) then run a 16mm T&E up to the loft into a 5 way RCD consumer unit. You may find when you get the building inspector to sign off that he wants to see proof that the work has been done by a part P approved contractor. You cannot just get an electrician along to 'sign it off' unless they are willing to claim they have done the work. As far as I'm aware only building control can sign off non part P work.

Why take the consumer unit into the loft when it can all be done in the existing area and then circuits taken from there into the loft?

 

[electromonkey]

If you want to keep your costs down bigbro, buy your own materials and find yourself a spark who will work for you on a day rate. It'll probably only take 2 days work. One day first fixing and the second for the second fix and testing. If you prepare the cable runs to the spark's specifications, you could save yourself a few quid again.

Which part of the country are you in?

 

[Engineer54]

Unless this loft conversion is on a dammed big mansion, why would anyone think it needs it's own CU?? What's wrong with extending the lighting and RFC from the upstairs circuits?? They are going to be lightly loaded at the best of times!!! Talk about overkill!!!! lol!!!

 

[BlueToBits]

As this project involves the introduction of new circuits and work on the CU, there are 2 ways of complying with part P.

Use a registered electrician for all work
or
Apply directly through your LBC before DIY work commences and pay the fee.

 

[tony mc]

I think the stand alone CU and new ccts was due to the 3036 board that is in the house now and all the new cables etc needing 30 mA protection !

Test the existing wireing and install a new CCU for everything at the same time!

 

[spark 68]

What's wrong with extending the lighting and RFC from the upstairs circuits??

Because the existing CU is re-wirable fuses and has no RCD protection E54

Beaten to it by tony mc

 

[SirKit Breaker]

You will need either planning permission or building regs depending on what your LABC require for the loft conversion. This will include all charges INCLUDING PART P NOTIFICATION. There is no requirement to notify seperately so all you will need is the EIC and other bits and bats that go with it.

Cheers...........Howard

 

[Dave 85]

Unless this loft conversion is on a dammed big mansion, why would anyone think it needs it's own CU?? What's wrong with extending the lighting and RFC from the upstairs circuits?? They are going to be lightly loaded at the best of times!!! Talk about overkill!!!! lol!!!

Firstly Electric shower-usually 7-10KW so thats not coming off the ring.
Second the existing house is on a rewireable fuse board so that would have to be upgraded, house tested, etc.
Then you've got all the potential problems you commonly find on old circuits, no ring cont, N-E faults, shared neutrals etc.
Way I see it, if you gotta run a 10mm up there for a shower, why not make it a 16 and stick a little board in. Easy.

 

[electromonkey]

Would I be wrong in saying that the board wouldn't need replacing providing a 30mA rcd was installed if the circuits were extended?

 

[spark 68]

Would I be wrong in saying that the board wouldn't need replacing providing a 30mA rcd was installed if the circuits were extended?​

No, not wrong in that sense, but you would only have a single RCD protecting the entire installation, and that in itself is against the regs, and would almost certainly be picked up by BC.

 

[tony mc]

If you mean leave the board and install a RCD for the entire instalation!

Yes you would be wrong !!! Not complient with the regs !

 

[Octopus]

Would you take your car in for a service and ask them not to bother with the brakes?

 

[ezzzekiel]

seems to me Dave 85 is giving very poor advise - the easiest most cost effective way would be to employ an electrician!!

Way I see it, if you gotta run a 10mm up there for a shower, why not make it a 16 and stick a little board in. Easy.

yes if you know what youre doing, the very nature of the original posts shows a significant lack of knowledge

 

[Silly Sausage]

seems to me Dave 85 is giving very poor advise - the easiest most cost effective way would be to employ an electrician!!
yes if you know what youre doing.

I think he's saying that would be the best way of doing it, not necessarily that the OP actually does said work.

 

[Dave 85]

Ezzzekiel
I dont think the guy came here to be told what he can and can't do in his own house. I made the rules regarding part P quite clear.

 

[jase]

I'd like to know the actual rules on PART P because it wasn't long ago that an channel 4 programme was telling viewers they can do the first fix on their home aslong as they leave the second fix to a qualified spark....Whats the actual rules...Is there any point us being PART P or what? I thought it all had to be done by a qualified spark and there is to be no Third Party Signing off!!!Poster times are hard mate but people like you are making it harder for the electrical industry. In this case you would need a third party to sign the work off?

Thats the biggest load of bull ive ever heard, if anything i would have thought the first fix was just as important in being compliant than anything else as it is not just wiring regs to consider but also building regs ie prescribed zones, grouping, thermal constraints, Part M part A part F etc etc, channel 4 should be reported to ofcom or whoever for spouting that s****