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S

Scooter

Hi

I have a BHR200 SDS drill and it has two 24v batteries with it. Last week, one of the batteries declared itself dead when put into the drill. 'Aha, forgot to recharge it' was my first reaction. So I put it in the charger and immediately got two green lights, i.e. fully charged and ready to rock. But when I put it in the drill, nothing happens. Bizarre.

Anyone else had this? And if so, did you cure it without having to buy another battery?

P.S. My only bit of Makita kit. DeWalt on everything else (230v, 110v and 18v). But their 24v SDS is pony in the extreme, hence the Makita.
 
Yup, I had this recently, with a fairly new battery. Exactly as you describe, I too thought the charger was goosed. I tried alsorts, completely flattening the bat then trying again, but nope, knackered. Really annoyed about it as the place I got the batt from went bust.
 
I may be wrong here but it sounds to me as a charger fault ,i have had one where the same happened so i took it appart and found a transistor had gone , what happens is the transistor goes short so when you insert the battery it completes the circuit instead of switching when the battery gets full ,new charger or take it appart and see if there are any blown transistors
 
The charger charges other batteries ok though, so I think the charger is ok. The fact others have had the same problem tells me there are some dodgy batts out there. I thought I had just been unlucky.
 
I may be wrong here but it sounds to me as a charger fault ,i have had one where the same happened so i took it appart and found a transistor had gone , what happens is the transistor goes short so when you insert the battery it completes the circuit instead of switching when the battery gets full ,new charger or take it appart and see if there are any blown transistors

Charges the other battery just fine, so I'm sure it can't be that.

Looks like I'll be handing over some sizeable noteage for a replacement. It's the 2Ah model, but I may get a 3.3Ah job. Will not be level with the base of the drill but I don't think it'll matter (unless the lid on the box will no longer close - I may have to look into that first!).

Cheers
 
Might be a fault on the thermal sensor teminal on the battery, if it has one.
 
Had the same drill for around 3 years. Sometimes when a fully charged battery is used, it performs like one thats almost dead. Put it into the charger, then 5 minutes later it shows as fully charged. Bang it back into the drill and its working as a fully charged one.

Always just put up withit really, although its a PITA.
 
Check it out first - you may be able to figure out whats wrong and fix it yourself. If not ,you must buy a new one , I notice a site Cordless Drill Batteries,Laptop Batteries,power tool batteries and more batteries Online Store in UK, and it promises:
1.High quality cells are used in our Batteries
2.100% QC of EVERY Battery
3.Factory-direct price (some products up to 30% Discount)
4.30 Days money back
5 100% brand new.
6. One year warranty
7.Fast and cheap shipping(Special Delivery: 1-2 days)
8. It has the excellent-sales service system.

If it really dosn't work ,it would be your first choise.God bress with your battery, and gool luck.:D
 
Your battery is made up of 20x 4/3a 1.2 volt cells (3.3Ah) OR 20x Sub C 1.2 volt cells (2.0Ah) basically what has happened is at least 2 or more of these idividual cells/batteries has gone down and the other 18 say are fully charged and cant charge any more (hence the green lights), however a drop in 2.4 volts due to the (at least) 2 batteries that are no good means the drill now only has 21 volts to opperate which is not enough, making the "battery" seem flat. My advice, but a multimeter ÂŁ5, open the battery case up, test across the cells individually, I bet my life at least 2 come back with 0 volts. Remove them from the 'pack' buy a replacement cell (try www.componentshop.co.uk and solder/spot weld the new one back into the pack making 24 volt back up and your drill will work fine. one problem with this tho is you will eventually end up with 20 batteries with mixed age etc. good for a quick fix but ideally your better off just buyin a set of new cells for around ÂŁ40 ish?? and replacing them all. You can even increase th Ah of your new battery. (all replacements or complete new sets do need to have the same Ah rating as eachother) ÂŁ40 and a bit of time is a lot cheaper than ÂŁ150 dont you think????
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Your battery is made up of 20x 4/3a 1.2 volt cells (3.3Ah) OR 20x Sub C 1.2 volt cells (2.0Ah) basically what has happened is at least 2 or more of these idividual cells/batteries has gone down and the other 18 say are fully charged and cant charge any more (hence the green lights), however a drop in 2.4 volts due to the (at least) 2 batteries that are no good means the drill now only has 21 volts to opperate which is not enough, making the "battery" seem flat. My advice, but a multimeter ÂŁ5, open the battery case up, test across the cells individually, I bet my life at least 2 come back with 0 volts. Remove them from the 'pack' buy a replacement cell (try www.componentshop.co.uk and solder/spot weld the new one back into the pack making 24 volt back up and your drill will work fine. one problem with this tho is you will eventually end up with 20 batteries with mixed age etc. good for a quick fix but ideally your better off just buyin a set of new cells for around ÂŁ40 ish?? and replacing them all. You can even increase th Ah of your new battery. (all replacements or complete new sets do need to have the same Ah rating as eachother) ÂŁ40 and a bit of time is a lot cheaper than ÂŁ150 dont you think????

We have a couple of companies here in Cape Town who specialise in repacking power tool batteries with new cells. It normally costs less than half the price of a new battery and as Dannybruff says you can increase the Ah performance of the original battery if the charger is compliant. If no such companies exist in the UK then it sounds like a good business opportunity to set one up.
 
The battery chip, if it has one, will be monitoring temperature and state of charge. I doubt it will be counting number of charging cycles.

Thats what I thought, but took them into the Makita service shop and told me they had reached the maximum number of cycles. He reckoned the chip thingy monitored allo of this
 
Yup, I had this recently, with a fairly new battery. Exactly as you describe, I too thought the charger was goosed. I tried alsorts, completely flattening the bat then trying again, but nope, knackered. Really annoyed about it as the place I got the batt from went bust.

even tho the company u bought from went bust, u should be able to have it repaired if was under warranty, just contact Makita UK and explain to them, as long as u have original receipt and its within warranty all should be well.
 
both ni-mh batteries died on my 12v bosch drill

as already said-made up of 10 1.2v cells


managed to repair one battery with a bad contact,

the other battery seemed to have a bad cell
 
Your battery is made up of 20x 4/3a 1.2 volt cells (3.3Ah) OR 20x Sub C 1.2 volt cells (2.0Ah) basically what has happened is at least 2 or more of these idividual cells/batteries has gone down and the other 18 say are fully charged and cant charge any more (hence the green lights), however a drop in 2.4 volts due to the (at least) 2 batteries that are no good means the drill now only has 21 volts to opperate which is not enough, making the "battery" seem flat. My advice, but a multimeter ÂŁ5, open the battery case up, test across the cells individually, I bet my life at least 2 come back with 0 volts. Remove them from the 'pack' buy a replacement cell (try www.componentshop.co.uk and solder/spot weld the new one back into the pack making 24 volt back up and your drill will work fine. one problem with this tho is you will eventually end up with 20 batteries with mixed age etc. good for a quick fix but ideally your better off just buyin a set of new cells for around ÂŁ40 ish?? and replacing them all. You can even increase th Ah of your new battery. (all replacements or complete new sets do need to have the same Ah rating as eachother) ÂŁ40 and a bit of time is a lot cheaper than ÂŁ150 dont you think????

Cheers Danny, but the link doesn't work. Has that company gone pop or is the address not quite right?

Many thanks
 

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