Metrel Eurotest Mi3100. Low ohms problems

[Baz1]

I bought this Metrel and frankly the instructions are poor.I'm a kitchen fitter so electrical know how is just what i need to do the job.
On th continuity setting I select low ohms and null the test leads.Readings vary quite a bit.I tried on a long length of cable ( not on a circuit) just to be sure and the results were not consistant.
It's ok to check continuity,but to get R1and R2 not so clever.
Any advice
Anyone got a metrel? Hope you can help.

Thanks Baz

 

[jedisparks]

Havent got a metrel so dont know how helpfull i will be. ive found a good way of zeroing leads is to use a piece of copper pipe and keep it in your metre case/box. zero your leads onto this. R1 and R2 is a continuity test.

 

[chris gray]

your leads sound knackered, either that or your batteries need changing,

 

[roukel01]

I have the same tester, it's the second I've had because the first one broke (replaced under warranty) and I must say, I think its pants... continuity tests are always all over the place. What I've found is that you have to get a really good connection with the croc clips (ie press down on them) before testing, then you have a better chance for good results. Mines always beeping at the worst time and the little temp thing always pops up stopping me from doing any testing.

 

[jedisparks]

I know its a bit late in this instance, but i understand that AVO do very reliable and stable meters. i use a fluke 1652 at the mo and that can be a bit random at times.

 

[telectrix]

personally. i've got a megger 1552 and the nullingf is a bit suspect so i use a dedicated low ohms meter. rs £220 + vat

 

[roukel01]

personally. i've got a megger 1552 and the nullingf is a bit suspect so i use a dedicated low ohms meter. rs £220 + vat

To be honest, as long as my tester passes its calibration each year, I couldn;t give a monkeys what reading it gives me!

 

[Amp David]

personally. i've got a megger 1552 and the nullingf is a bit suspect so i use a dedicated low ohms meter. rs £220 + vat

Agree here. Null out once, come back toit 2 mins later and its gone ----.

Would still prefer my Megger to a Netrel still!

 

[rs250250]

Megger is the only way to go. I have heard of numerous problems with Metrel

 

[2391bob]

Yup megger is the gear,although i did love my metrel 61557 till it went ferkin haywire,metrel leads are good though,lot better than megger leads,and robin/fluke croc clips are the best.

 

[telectrix]

pair of jump leads and a car battery. cable gets hot, you got continuity

 

[chris gray]

my gaffer has got one of these and ive been using it today. had the exact same issue.
found that if i turned it off after taking each reading gave me consistant readings.
bought a m13000 a bit back and this is the first time ive been able to do some testing with it (sent it to eddys to get calibrated - only took them 2 months to return it, with someone elses crap leads)
and realised that if i smashed one tester into the other tester i would be left with no tester but a big bloody smug smile. metrel suck ---.

 

[chris gray]

my gaffer has got one of these and ive been using it today. had the exact same issue.
found that if i turned it off after taking each reading gave me consistant readings.
bought a m13000 a bit back and this is the first time ive been able to do some testing with it (sent it to eddys to get calibrated - only took them 2 months to return it, with someone elses crap leads)
and realised that if i smashed one tester into the other tester i would be left with no tester but a big bloody smug smile. metrel suck ---.

yeah i really shouldnt of jinxed myself like this. dropped gaffers tester today, backlight works but led display has gone :/ doh!!!!!

 

[Rockomuir]

I have just got a metrel and this may sound daft but the instructions do not show how to null the leads, any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Octopus]

Best suggestion is to print off the "full" manual from the CD in the box - its full of very useful information.

Back to the nulling leads, in the selected test select "F1"

 

[Sad Anorak]

I have a metrel MI3000 and before each testing session I do a hard reset by switching off, removing leads, selecting 'phase rotation'. Then pressing the RH select key (next to the test button) whilst pressing 'on'. This seems to correct any wayward low ohms readings. Also after this sequence you can press 'CAL' whilst nulling leads.

 

[Farmelectrics]

Personally I think the metrels are good had mine 7 years and still happy with it so there lol

 

[roukel01]

Just as an update... I'm on my 3rd Eurotest Easi in just shy of 4 years! It failed its calibration yet again this year, Metrel wanted £170 to repair, so I found the managing directors email address out online and sent him an email explaining my issues. They repaired it for free!
I've not had one year where these testers haven't cause me trouble.

 

[Sad Anorak]

I've gone through two in three years, but I accidentally overloaded the first one causing continuity not to work anymore. I'm not entirely happy with the second one as it doesn't always read loop resistance first time (F1 symbol comes up but F1 fuse is always OK). If I leave it for half an hour or so and hard reset it, it checks OK. I find this disconcerting as it is needed for the cert plus during estimates. Continuity can be fickle as I described. It only sends out 8.5ma - a very low current for that test so can be reading high unless an excellent connection.

 

[Deleted member 26818]

To Null the leads, connect the two leads together, press the 'test' button, then press and hold the 'CAL' button until 'Co' appears on the screen.
To remove the Null, disconnect the leads, press the 'test' button, then press and hold the 'CAL' button untill 'Co' disappears
If you get inconsistant readings, you could try adjusting the 'high resistance' limit.
Or switch to continuity instead.