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Been to a quote for a job this morning. Customer has just bought the house and wanted me to quote to replace/move an old fuse board as there were 2 in the house.

On looking at the job it appears that the old unit in the kitchen is being fed from the newer unit under the stairs in MICC/Pyro, the install date on the newer board is 2011 so don't know why the original spark did not just replace it at the time.

Told the customer I will need to do a full eicr to see what needs doing in the rest of the property but the old board will need removing (which he understands) and I would need to trace the circuits to see how I can best get them back to the main board.
As there is no labelling on either board I have suggested he plays flick the switch and makes a list of which mcb switches what off to save a bit of time when I return.

I have never had the ‘pleasure’ of working with micc as I only do domestic work so my question is do I need to take any precautions when I rip it all out?

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buzzlightyear

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considered it a sub board and you going to up grade it to a metal board to 18th ,you need to find what I is it feeding .and of course is the sub tails to it .
you could use the existing micc ,has long has all test carried out .
just to add looking at the main board some of the mcbs are not marked up .
 
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The outer dome cap is sealing the cable to the gland body. Below it is an olive which compresses to the cable sheath when the dome cap is tightened. Releasing this should free the cable from the gland body, this is not an ideal thing to do once the olive is bedded to the sheath and body but needs must if you are not replacing the gland. You should then be able to free the gland without twisting the cable which you need to avoid at all costs. Some have earth tail pots fitted to the cable for earthing purposes if not I would probably fit an earthing nut, it looks metric from the dome cap which I can see a 2 written on it.
The dome cap will denote the cable size, 2H 2.5 means heavy duty two core, 2.5mm. 2L 2.5 means light duty two core, 2.5mm.
 
if you are ripping out the micc then no precautions necessary

if you are going to re-use the micc feed then don't cut the gland off otherwise you will be in a right old pickle
 

drzsta

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Its Metric 2L2.5 and would be no problem to re-gland.

Edit; although it has no earth tail. i'd be interested like 123 has said how they have terminated it into the plastic CU.
 

Lucien Nunes

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I have never had the ‘pleasure’ of working with micc
Not sure why the quotes. It's about the only cable I enjoy installing these days.

But wait, that copper covered stuff at the right hand end of the new board isn't MICC. Or if it is, it's gas MICC.
 
if only we could see a picture with the lid shut we could inspect the gland

rarely see orange micc in houses these days , see a bit of bare micc on my travels but rarely orange
 

Lucien Nunes

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T'other end is plastic though, and could be amusing. But if it's being axed, or even hammered, not terribly important.
 

littlespark

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I think the Op needs to come back and confirm the MICC is being removed and the circuits from the sub board are being extended to reach the main one.

No precautions except don’t snort the white powder
 

buzzlightyear

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a good spark with years working on stuff have no problems.
there's a lot young sparks out there have never worked on it ,alone tie thier boot laces .
 
a good spark with years working on stuff have no problems.
there's a lot young sparks out there have never worked on it ,alone tie thier boot laces .
You couldn’t pass 2360 until you had successfully stripped and made off 2 mic cables

Now they don’t even have to do that anymore
 

ipf

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You couldn’t pass 2360 until you had successfully stripped and made off 2 mic cables

Now they don’t even have to do that anymore
Gawd! I must have done at least 2000 before I was 18..

...…and threaded that much conduit I could do it wi' me feet.;)
 
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Intention will be to rip it out and take everything back to the main consumer unit, just need to work out what they all feed and if I can arrange the circuits to fit them in, there are 3 spare ways in new board, 4 breakers in old unit but covers not been off yet and nothing is labeled except the shower circuit.
As far as the termination in the newer board goes, they have drilled a small hole and fed the micc through it, no idea if they have glanded it inside.
 
Intention will be to rip it out and take everything back to the main consumer unit, just need to work out what they all feed and if I can arrange the circuits to fit them in, there are 3 spare ways in new board, 4 breakers in old unit but covers not been off yet and nothing is labeled except the shower circuit.
As far as the termination in the newer board goes, they have drilled a small hole and fed the micc through it, no idea if they have glanded it inside.
I wonder if they fed the original gland through a 20mm hole
 

TJ Anderson

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Or put it through the hole, stripped it back and never bothered with a pot or gland, may be seen that a few times
Yeah, I've seen that too, sleeved and taped only....With a jubilee around the copper clad to clamp a cpc to!!.... Also seen many in control panels where multiple multi core pyro's brought in through same hole and then pots only fitted........There were some rough old boys out there too back in the day lol

I'm quite a fan of MICC and do enjoy when I get to work with it.
 

Pete999

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Yeah, I've seen that too, sleeved and taped only....With a jubilee around the copper clad to clamp a cpc to!!.... Also seen many in control panels where multiple multi core pyro's brought in through same hole and then pots only fitted........There were some rough old boys out there too back in the day lol
Nearly as bad as some of the rough young boys of today!!!!!!!
 

ipf

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Definitely, except they now lash in FP200 and make a hash of that instead! Haha
The number of swa lash ups these days has gone through the roof.
It seems to be every other time I come across some. If they can't terminate the armour correctly it's slice a shroud because they've forgotten it.
 

Pete999

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The number of swa lash ups these days has gone through the roof.
It seems to be every other time I come across some. If they can't terminate the armour correctly it's slice a shroud because they've forgotten it.
I don't know about you, but I used to take pride in first fixing cables of all sorts, making sure they were clipped nice, entering the enclosure properly, nice an neat, now slap it in know matter, as long as it tests OK and it works, it will be OK, what has become of trafesmen and Women? all gone to pot, I know who I lay the blame on and you don't need me to explain that do you?
 

ipf

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I don't know about you, but I used to take pride in first fixing cables of all sorts, making sure they were clipped nice, entering the enclosure properly, nice an neat, now slap it in know matter, as long as it tests OK and it works, it will be OK, what has become of trafesmen and Women? all gone to pot, I know who I lay the blame on and you don't need me to explain that do you?
….and the fact that testing has been carried out, when it is, shows that it's been someone who should know better. Plenty couldn't care less....or don't know any better.
Ah! Stop moanin'! T*at's life, I suppose.
 
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Pete999

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….and the fact that testing has been carried out, when it is, shows that it's been someone who should know better. Plenty couldn't care less....or don't know any better.
Ah! Stop moanin'! T*at's life, I suppose.
And therein lies the crux of the problems!!!!!
 
The number of swa lash ups these days has gone through the roof.
It seems to be every other time I come across some. If they can't terminate the armour correctly it's slice a shroud because they've forgotten it.

I see regularly swa terminated via a plastic stuffing gland with all the wire strands just completely cut off at both ends and just the inner cores shoved up the plastic gland....rough as you like but if the new lot aren't shown how to fit a proper swa gland they won't bother
 

ipf

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I see regularly swa terminated via a plastic stuffing gland with all the wire strands just completely cut off at both ends and just the inner cores shoved up the plastic gland....rough as you like but if the new lot aren't shown how to fit a proper swa gland they won't bother
I saw that with twenty odd bollard lights, on a long driveway to a club, not long ago. No stuffers, though, just swa's taped together in the chassis. It's disgraceful and total ignorance. Only found out after a couple had been flattened by parking experts.
 
I saw that with twenty odd bollard lights, on a long driveway to a club, not long ago. No stuffers, though, just swa's taped together in the chassis. It's disgraceful and total ignorance. Only found out after a couple had been flattened by parking experts.
If the person doing the job isn’t going to even bother using the armour and cuts it all off , wouldn’t it be better just to use hi-tiff or even rubber flex...
 

ipf

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If the person doing the job isn’t going to even bother using the armour and cuts it all off , wouldn’t it be better just to use hi-tiff or even rubber flex...
It's all run underground. If in pipe or duct, I've no problem with Hi-tuff...…..but 300m of rubber flex?..... Do me a favour.:confused:
 

davesparks

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It's all run underground. If in pipe or duct, I've no problem with Hi-tuff...…..but 300m of rubber flex?..... Do me a favour.:confused:
There is an argument to be made for H07-RNF in this case, the neoprene outer sheath is probably more suitable for a duct that may end up full of water than either hi tuff or swa
 

ipf

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There is an argument to be made for H07-RNF in this case, the neoprene outer sheath is probably more suitable for a duct that may end up full of water than either hi tuff or swa
If it’s up to standard, fair enough but in this situation with such a long run...and I’m not even sure it’s in plastic pipe, I think I’d be going with swa, installed correctly.
 

davesparks

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If it’s up to standard, fair enough but in this situation with such a long run...and I’m not even sure it’s in plastic pipe, I think I’d be going with swa, installed correctly.
How does length affect the type of cable used? Your post suggested that hi tuff would be ok in a duct but tough rubber flex wouldn't, which just doesn't make sense to me. The rubber flex is likely to have the best long term water resistance if the duct fills with water, better suited to pulling in to ducts and may have slightly better volt drop characteristics.
Yes if it isn't in any sort of containment then SWA would be the best choice.
 

ipf

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How does length affect the type of cable used? Your post suggested that hi tuff would be ok in a duct but tough rubber flex wouldn't, which just doesn't make sense to me. The rubber flex is likely to have the best long term water resistance if the duct fills with water, better suited to pulling in to ducts and may have slightly better volt drop characteristics.
Yes if it isn't in any sort of containment then SWA would be the best choice.
Sorry for the lack of sense Dave, but I'm talking about this installation (situation). Whose to know how secure the system is. About 30 jointing points, all involving cables through concrete and tarmac into the fittings.....no chance of any slight damage? How easy a pull in?
In this situation, swa.
The lazy sods just saved time and cash, throwing the cable in without glanding.
 
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