Multiple kitchen appliance failures

[Cpflatman]

I recently purchased a new property and in the three months we've lived here three kitchen appliances have had/ developed issues:

• Beko induction hob would not heat, appliance repair company said the main power control board was faulty and needed replacing;
• Half of 4 slice toaster (note: plugged in via surge protected lead) stopped working
• Hotpoint oven worked for 2 months, then lost power completely during cooking and will no longer switch on at all.

Is this likely to be a coincidence or is there an electrical explanation for this?

I have reason to believe the kitchen electrics were not done by a professional, I have been made aware of several building regs contraventions since moving in.

I would like to know so i can get a quotation from an electrician to fix this.

Thank you

 

[James]

Is this a new built property?

If not, was any electrical report done prior to purchase?

 

[DefyG]

Probably unfortunate coincidence but without looking impossible to say.

 

[DPG]

Do you have any issues with lamps flickering?

 

[Cpflatman]

No issues with lights flickering.

No survey I'm afraid.

I should have mentioned that the appliances were all quite new, hence my suspicion.

 

[Intoelectrics]

Are you saying they all went faulty at the same time or that they have individually gone faulty over a period of 3 months?

 

[Cpflatman]

Individually.

 

[richy3333]

Surge that has then slowly caused the appliance failure? Poor quality appliances - Beko? Difficult to say without investigating.

 

[DPG]

No issues with lights flickering.

No survey I'm afraid.

I should have mentioned that the appliances were all quite new, hence my suspicion.

Thanks. Was just wondering about a dodgy incoming neutral.

 

[Cpflatman]

Poor Beko hob was my first thought, but then the oven (seemingly good quality) and toaster (which ran fine in previous houses for 2+ years) appear to have gone in quick succession.

Appreciate the help and that it needs investigation, just wondered if there were any plausible electrical explanations for this. If so I will need to get an electrician out quickly to avoid any other expensive appliance damage.

 

[DPG]

Speak to a few of the neighbours, see if they have had any similar issues. Try and narrow it down to an issue in your property, or a more general/DNO issue.

 

[Midwest]

Is it a new build property or just new to you?

 

[Cpflatman]

Just new to me. It's old.

 

[brianmoooore]

It's difficult to see how a poor quality installation, without anything obvious, like flickering lights, could have an affect on the reliability of your appliances. Poor electrical installation is likely to electrocute you, burn your house, or keep tripping out.
A very high or a very low supply voltage will affect long term reliability, but this is unlikely and would be a DNO problem, unless the appliances are a very long way from the supply and are wired with badly undersized cable.
It's more than likely to be coincidence. In the six weeks before Christmas, I had a 2year old electric glass hob crack, a 5 year old fridge freezer fail, and a door handle fail on a 5 year old washer/drier.

 

[Cpflatman]

I have an update on this now.
It turns out the oven is actually still in working order, but the switched socket it is plugged into no longer works.
From memory the socket is wired into the same cooker switch as the 32A hob, which still works and did not trip when the oven stopped working. Therefore something appears to have gone awry between the cooker switch and the socket.
A 13a socket tester does not light at all.
Any clues on how a 13a oven could cause fault like this would be appreciated.

 

[brianmoooore]

My first thought was that the 13A fuse in the plug had blown. Many of these ovens consume close to 13A, and, with a bit of extra heat generated by the contact resistance between plug and socket, and fuse and fuse holder, eventually pop the fuse.
But, You claim there's no power at the socket. Any sign of heat damage around the front of the socket?
If, as you say, it is isolated by the same switch as the hob, and the hob works, it's possible there's a fused spur between the two, but rather pointless if it feeds a 13A single socket.

 

[Cpflatman]

My first thought was that the 13A fuse in the plug had blown. Many of these ovens consume close to 13A, and, with a bit of extra heat generated by the contact resistance between plug and socket, and fuse and fuse holder, eventually pop the fuse.
But, You claim there's no power at the socket. Any sign of heat damage around the front of the socket?
If, as you say, it is isolated by the same switch as the hob, and the hob works, it's possible there's a fused spur between the two, but rather pointless if it feeds a 13A single socket.

Fuse in the plug seems fine as the oven switched on plugged into another socket.
No sign of heat damage externally no, but I will isolate and take a look inside tomorrow.

 

[Cpflatman]

So today I inspected the accessible parts of the circuit.

First the cooker switch - no signs of damage. However I no longer think the cooker switch isolates the faulty oven socket, only the 32A hob.
I think this changed recently when I had the cooker switch moved out of the hot zone.

Second, the wall box where the previous cooker switch was located. No signs of damage. It has a larger T+E cable now joined by connectors and blank plated over.

Thirdly, at the rear of the oven, I see a larger T+E and a separate smaller T+E cable coming from the wall. The large cable goes to the new cooker switch (which goes onward to the 32A hob) and the small cable to the socket which supplies the oven and appears to have lost power.

I am assuming that between the old cooker switch wall box and where the larger cable emerges from the wall behind the cooker there is a spur to the socket supply enabling the old cooker switch to isolate both the hob and the oven socket. The new cooker switch no longer isolates the oven socket as it interrupts the large cable only after it re emerges from the wall.

Assuming all of this is possible and likely, does this shed any light on why the oven socket would have stopped working mid-cook?

 

[telectrix]

might just be a faulty socket (switch maybe) or a loose connection.

 

[brianmoooore]

If I read the op's last post correctly, the hob has a brand new isolator and cable, direct from the CU, and the oven has been connected, via a s/socket to an extension of the original cooker wiring.
What does the labeling of the CU say, and has any of the labels been changed? A pic. of the CU might help.
Is the s/socket that the oven plugs into in a position that can easily be reached with the oven in place?