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ok So oven not powered through cooker isolation switch. I turned off the switch labelled kitchen sockets on CU and oven went off. Is that good or bad?
It is what it is I guess, but it’s not good. Ovens are best placed on the cooker circuit. The kitchen socket circuit likely has a fair bit on it with kettle, toaster, fridge, dishwasher etc. If the cooker connection unit (should be on wall below cooker switch) is near to the oven position it could be connected with a new bit of flex. But I suspect the oven had historically been relocated to this new spot and hence a spur off a kitchen socket for ease.
 
Kitchen sockets 2nd switch in. Yes it is what it is for now. We intend to do an extension and upgrade the electrics then but in the meantime can we remove the cable from back of existing oven and attach to the new oven given it’s the same amperage and 0.2kw less than original?

Need advice regarding electric oven replacement please 3E782EB9-6FFA-43CC-A360-D3FE10DFF4C5 - EletriciansForums.net
 
Ok. It appears that the kitchen sockets are on a 32amp radial in 4mm - which is just ok. So you can wire in a new oven as long as the flex to the oven is the right size.
 
Ok. It appears that the kitchen sockets are on a 32amp radial in 4mm - which is just ok. So you can wire in a new oven as long as the flex to the oven is the right size.
Unless you know the installation method for that cable you cannot predict if it is just okay.
 
Unless you know the installation method for that cable you cannot predict if it is just okay.
Yes good point there Westward. I suppose I was presuming that that sort of thing had been done by the previous sparky but you never know these days.
Breils - do you have by any chance an EICR for the current installation or not? You would need this to confirm that the cable was correctly protected.
 
Yes good point there Westward. I suppose I was presuming that that sort of thing had been done by the previous sparky but you never know these days.
Breils - do you have by any chance an EICR for the current installation or not? You would need this to confirm that the cable was correctly protected.


Unfortunately, no we have absolutely no paperwork with the house. I guess you just assume everything is hunky dory within reason when buying a house especially when the survey doesn’t flag up anything major, you then move in and within 3 months you’ve had to do a repair to the roof and replace the boiler. But that’s another story. And now our oven takes 30 mins to get to temperature hence why we want to replace but if it’s going to open a can of worms than might not bother for now.

Can you tell the method of installation of the cable by looking at it?
 
Can you tell the method of installation of the cable by looking at it?[/QUOTE]
Yes and no. The installation method of a cable can affect its current carrying capacity (ampere rating of cable). Certain installation methods such as containment of the cable in conduit or trunking will result in a reduced current carrying capacity as the cables ability to dissipate heat is reduced. Building materials such as thermal insulation have the same effect if the cable passes through or is surrounded by it. So unless the cable is visible throughout its run it will be difficult to establish.
 
Ok so the oven is on a light grey cable and the extractor fan is dark grey. I removed the plinth from under some cupboards and can see both cables which go through the wall into the understairs cupboard, can see them all the way to foot of stairs where they go under the floorboards and come out in the cupboard where the CU is which is directly across from foot of stairs.
 
hi i am new to this forum i allso agree with all the above replys
i think you should get it checked by a registered electrician to inspect your installation and tidy up al your lose cables and change your cu with rcd protection
 

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