Discuss New denali horn stopped working in the Auto Electrician Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hi, I changed my old horn for a Denali all was well for a week now silence! I checked it with another battery and it works, I put a multimeter across the cables that connect to the horn and pushed the horn switch and reads 12.5v so I know power is getting through but still no sound!,
Any pointers?, TIA - kev
 
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Sounds like it has failed. The reliability of electrical equipment tends to follow what is known a the 'bathtub curve' with time. This translates as the equipment is most likely to fail when it is new or when it is old, but should be reliable for the period in between.
 
Sounds like it has failed.

But it works when he tries it with a new battery, unless the fault on the horn is intermittent or can't draw enough current to operate it.


Have you tried wiring the horn directly to the original battery? See is if works then.
 
But it works when he tries it with a new battery, unless the fault on the horn is intermittent or can't draw enough current to operate it.
You have a fair point, sir!
@OP Was the horn connected when you measured the voltage across its wires with a meter? If it wasn't, the 12.5 volts you measured is close to meaningless.
 
So there was 13 volt across the horn. You've also said that the horn works when connected directly to the battery.
If both of these are true, and remain true, then the only possible explanation I can think of is that the horn is polarity sensitive, and was connected to the horn wires the wrong way around.
 
So there was 13 volt across the horn. You've also said that the horn works when connected directly to the battery.
If both of these are true, and remain true, then the only possible explanation I can think of is that the horn is polarity sensitive, and was connected to the horn wires the wrong way around.
The Denali I've since found out requires a separate relay and loom,
The original horn fails to sound also could this be the relay?!
 
If you have 13 volts at the horn terminals with a working horn connected and loading the circuit, there is nothing wrong with any of the circuit, including the relay. If the circuit isn't loaded, then the 13 volts recorded is meaningless. A series resistance of many thousands of ohms (relay, fuse, any connection along the way) would make no noticeable change to the meter reading, but a series resistance of a couple of tens of ohms, would kill a horn dead.
Connect a 12 volt lamp of at least 21W (indicator or brake light lamp) to the horn terminals, and test with that in place.
There's no reason per se why your aftermarket horn would require a separate relay and loom. That's just the manufacturers covering their arses in case their horn overloads the existing circuitry.
 
If you have 13 volts at the horn terminals with a working horn connected and loading the circuit, there is nothing wrong with any of the circuit, including the relay. If the circuit isn't loaded, then the 13 volts recorded is meaningless. A series resistance of many thousands of ohms (relay, fuse, any connection along the way) would make no noticeable change to the meter reading, but a series resistance of a couple of tens of ohms, would kill a horn dead.
Connect a 12 volt lamp of at least 21W (indicator or brake light lamp) to the horn terminals, and test with that in place.
There's no reason per se why your aftermarket horn would require a separate relay and loom. That's just the manufacturers covering their arses in case their horn overloads the existing circuitry.
Ok and thanks, will let you know
 
The Denali I've since found out requires a separate relay and loom,
The original horn fails to sound also could this be the relay?!
Thanks all for your help I found a hidden relay on the bike wired by a previous owner it had failed so took a piece of 3mm cable and connected it to positive cable which was connected to the damaged relay reconnected that to the Denali harness and all works fine?
 

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