New Summer house wiring installation - dedicated Circuit or break into existing ring main?

[Pete999]

I looked at a summer house back in February before lockdown. Options were come off a ring main or a 65m 16mm SWA to the mains at the opposite corner of the house ? or a FCU 5m away.
They Wanted 2 twin sockets, indoor light and outdoor light. Got a call last week saying someone else did the work and the fuse has popped twice and could I have a look. Plugged 2 heaters in and it blew the fuse twice when the kettle was going.
They have asked me to do it properly with a sub main, told them to get someone else to do it now, can’t be arsed with it.

Is this the fuse in the FCU that's blowing?
[automerge]1601307012[/automerge]

I looked at a summer house back in February before lockdown. Options were come off a ring main or a 65m 16mm SWA to the mains at the opposite corner of the house ? or a FCU 5m away.
They Wanted 2 twin sockets, indoor light and outdoor light. Got a call last week saying someone else did the work and the fuse has popped twice and could I have a look. Plugged 2 heaters in and it blew the fuse twice when the kettle was going.
They have asked me to do it properly with a sub main, told them to get someone else to do it now, can’t be arsed with it.

Having seen the job already, only you have prior knowledge of what's involved to run a dedicated supply, hard to comment.

 

[ChrisElectrical88]

@Pete999 It was the fuse in the spur, they said cause it was cold last week they had 2 x 2kW heaters plugged in and when they set the kettle off it blew the fuse.
@Dustydazzler I’ve just gave them a mates number and told them to use him, I’m to busy now to get involved.

 

[Pete999]

@Pete999 It was the fuse in the spur, they said cause it was cold last week they had 2 x 2kW heaters plugged in and when they set the kettle off it blew the fuse.
@Dustydazzler I’ve just gave them a mates number and told them to use him, I’m to busy now to get involved.

Thanks Mate so 4 KW and a possible 3KW kettle, so 7KW on a 13 Amp fuse = approx 30 Amps not really nuclear physics is it?

 

[Dustydazzler]

Thanks Mate so 4 KW and a possible 3KW kettle, so 7KW on a 13 Amp fuse = approx 30 Amps not really nuclear physics is it?

just surprised some bright spark didn’t take out the blown fuse and replace it with A cut down bolt...

 

[Pete999]

@Pete999 It was the fuse in the spur, they said cause it was cold last week they had 2 x 2kW heaters plugged in and when they set the kettle off it blew the fuse.
@Dustydazzler I’ve just gave them a mates number and told them to use him, I’m to busy now to get involved.

Still a 13 Amp fuse Mate, cold or not job done properly should have sorted the problem properly and more importantly and SAFELY.

 

[ChrisElectrical88]

Thanks Mate so 4 KW and a possible 3KW kettle, so 7KW on a 13 Amp fuse = approx 30 Amps not really nuclear physics is it?

Not really, I think the heaters were holding alright, I’ve not looked at the regs to see the time they can handle that sort of current. Bet it was bloody warm though!

 

[James]

I looked at a summer house back in February before lockdown. Options were come off a ring main or a 65m 16mm SWA to the mains at the opposite corner of the house ? or a FCU 5m away.
They Wanted 2 twin sockets, indoor light and outdoor light. Got a call last week saying someone else did the work and the fuse has popped twice and could I have a look. Plugged 2 heaters in and it blew the fuse twice when the kettle was going.
They have asked me to do it properly with a sub main, told them to get someone else to do it now, can’t be arsed with it.

add 30% to the price and requote.

 

[The Engineer]

Dedicated circuit Mate

Im in the states where we go by ohm's law and scientific load calculations in determining these things but dont completely understand UK terminology, if the terminology is what I think. This is a not brainer. It will require a dedicated circuit with a highest than you stated amp rating, use this circuit to power a secondary small breaker pannel to branch the higher power "new dedicated circuit as the dedicated for the small box it will power. Included four of whatever your standard power rating needed to supply you lower standard power on each buss bar power connection. Of these four you should be able to install what we call a double break. That taps two of the lower power supply sources joing the two to make what we refer to as 220v incase he needs it later or if your power ratings on treadmills over there are 220 volts he can use it for that but if you were accurate on th watts which even for the uk there's no way that could be, but I'm from the states. If not need cap it for a later power need. That would reserve 2 of the single power acceses if not used. Thethirdcan be used with a common amp rated circuit, here it could be used with what we'd call AWG 12-2 wire and provide 110volts which here we can run up to 20 amp breaker switch. Which would power to our code 6 110v low watt power recepticals along with two 110v rated lights or other things like radios, t.v., lamps etcetera..so if you would need to run four 110v appliances or other things. If you have extra, it won't hurt, just put covers over the unused breaker power acceses. You will need at least what we call a heavier duty gauge "thicknesses of wire and it be insulated properly to the environment in which it will be exposed to, so four 110v access point in the new box is a total of 440 volts requiring four solid 10 gauge insulated wires into a single weather proof conduit and coded properly and coated with no exposed inside metal of the wires before placed into a conduit together to run out ti the other smaller booster box/panel.This would work because of the amp draw. It wouldn't be alot out there for what you want to use and you would be able to still add two to three lights plugs or a mix as needed. In the stated this would typically be ran from a pole fixed to the roof with the conduit running to a hollow pole on top the shed running the conduit through both hollow piles and securing them, if it's a short distance away and on private property. Then water proof hollow portion of poles and weather proof. Use outdoor moisture resistant conduit and wire just incase. If different situation, stop 440v power from main power using utility approved technicians then do the rest of the conduit and wiring the same but run it in ground with properly rated wire and conduit usually weather proof, water resistant and dig 16 to 18 inches deep, fill trench 3 to 5 inches with crushed gravel then line the entire length of the trench with under ground rated black plastic on top of the crush rock, then cover over top with with under ground rated plastic plastic the same way, except going from top of trench hole about two inches before top of trench hole cover with two inches of course grade 58 gaveland top with soil about 6+ inches deep worth, compress and refill till ground is very firm with dirt again cover thr back fill material and conduit, to save expense pull power from the original breaker box... only if it has for unused power acceses. If not use same method of wires and adjust gauge according to amp draw calculations. And adjust after calculating ohms law I/e=r to install and load to calculate breaker size is safe and efficient and proper for the size of the wire.. then if not enough empty to make 440v in original box. Run what we call in America a sub panel with access or breaker ports. If no available 440v work from the box get your electric energy provider to set and connect access to 440v power for liability to the raw power supply incoming the house then use it to run your power to the shed dub panel ... hope that helps and hope you can understand my electrical terminology. You can save alot of money with this advice as a helper for your technician..lol...jk jk.. you might bre ankle to do some of it...... if toy can translate this to Englanda terminology. Or I don't know really if you guys use the same amount if electricity to power the same devices we use in the states. If not oh well at least this is done insight from the U.S. engineering side.

 

[Rockingit]

Im in the states where we go by ohm's law and scientific load calculations in determining these things but dont completely understand UK terminology, if the terminology is what I think. This is a not brainer. It will require a dedicated circuit with a highest than you stated amp rating, use this circuit to power a secondary small breaker pannel to branch the higher power "new dedicated circuit as the dedicated for the small box it will power. Included four of whatever your standard power rating needed to supply you lower standard power on each buss bar power connection. Of these four you should be able to install what we call a double break. That taps two of the lower power supply sources joing the two to make what we refer to as 220v incase he needs it later or if your power ratings on treadmills over there are 220 volts he can use it for that but if you were accurate on th watts which even for the uk there's no way that could be, but I'm from the states. If not need cap it for a later power need. That would reserve 2 of the single power acceses if not used. Thethirdcan be used with a common amp rated circuit, here it could be used with what we'd call AWG 12-2 wire and provide 110volts which here we can run up to 20 amp breaker switch. Which would power to our code 6 110v low watt power recepticals along with two 110v rated lights or other things like radios, t.v., lamps etcetera..so if you would need to run four 110v appliances or other things. If you have extra, it won't hurt, just put covers over the unused breaker power acceses. You will need at least what we call a heavier duty gauge "thicknesses of wire and it be insulated properly to the environment in which it will be exposed to, so four 110v access point in the new box is a total of 440 volts requiring four solid 10 gauge insulated wires into a single weather proof conduit and coded properly and coated with no exposed inside metal of the wires before placed into a conduit together to run out ti the other smaller booster box/panel.This would work because of the amp draw. It wouldn't be alot out there for what you want to use and you would be able to still add two to three lights plugs or a mix as needed. In the stated this would typically be ran from a pole fixed to the roof with the conduit running to a hollow pole on top the shed running the conduit through both hollow piles and securing them, if it's a short distance away and on private property. Then water proof hollow portion of poles and weather proof. Use outdoor moisture resistant conduit and wire just incase. If different situation, stop 440v power from main power using utility approved technicians then do the rest of the conduit and wiring the same but run it in ground with properly rated wire and conduit usually weather proof, water resistant and dig 16 to 18 inches deep, fill trench 3 to 5 inches with crushed gravel then line the entire length of the trench with under ground rated black plastic on top of the crush rock, then cover over top with with under ground rated plastic plastic the same way, except going from top of trench hole about two inches before top of trench hole cover with two inches of course grade 58 gaveland top with soil about 6+ inches deep worth, compress and refill till ground is very firm with dirt again cover thr back fill material and conduit, to save expense pull power from the original breaker box... only if it has for unused power acceses. If not use same method of wires and adjust gauge according to amp draw calculations. And adjust after calculating ohms law I/e=r to install and load to calculate breaker size is safe and efficient and proper for the size of the wire.. then if not enough empty to make 440v in original box. Run what we call in America a sub panel with access or breaker ports. If no available 440v work from the box get your electric energy provider to set and connect access to 440v power for liability to the raw power supply incoming the house then use it to run your power to the shed dub panel ... hope that helps and hope you can understand my electrical terminology. You can save alot of money with this advice as a helper for your technician..lol...jk jk.. you might bre ankle to do some of it...... if toy can translate this to Englanda terminology. Or I don't know really if you guys use the same amount if electricity to power the same devices we use in the states. If not oh well at least this is done insight from the U.S. engineering side.

That was quite some first post.

 

[Strima]

That was quite some first post.

And completely irrelevant as we use 230 single phase... ?