no oven for xmas :-( new 16amp oven on onto old 20amp breaker.???

[carl87]

Hi there

My old oven broke just in time for xmas (murphys law)
Ive picked up a new one which is rated at 16amp.
The old oven came off an independent circuit. 20amp breaker with 6mm from board to isolator and 6mm to rear of oven.
Is this just a case of just hardwiring it in or is it a bigger job than that?
hoping to get an electrician to do this but with 2weeks out from xmas Im hoping they dont tell me its too big to do until new year.
Is there an easy/safe solution?
any feedback appreciated.
Thanks

 

[pc1966]

I think in the ROI there are various legal restrictions on what you can do as DIY without being a registered electrician. One of the forum member such as @Risteard or @LastManOnline might be better able to advise on this.

 

[littlespark]

If the new oven only takes 16A, then a 20A supply will be fine. Ovens are classed as a "fixed load" so it can never be over 16A

Just needs hardwired into where the old oven was.

An electrician will also check that the circuit is suitable, including having RCD protection.

 

[brianmoooore]

Depends whether the manufacturer's instructions allow a 20A MCB, or insist on 16A.
There'll also probably be a physical problem with the connection box to the new oven. These tend to be of a 'European' design, where 3 phase supplies to an oven are the norm, and will be impossible to fit a 6mm2 T&E cable into.

 

[carl87]

I think in the ROI there are various legal restrictions on what you can do as DIY without being a registered electrician. One of the forum member such as @Risteard or @LastManOnline might be better able to advise on this.

Ah I wont be doing it myself just trying to see if its a big job and prepare myself that a sparks may not be available until new year. I may be in for some microwaved turkey this xmas

I think in the ROI there are various legal restrictions on what you can do as DIY without being a registered electrician. One of the forum member such as @Risteard or @LastManOnline might be better able to advise on this.

 

[carl87]

Depends whether the manufacturer's instructions allow a 20A MCB, or insist on 16A.
There'll also probably be a physical problem with the connection box to the new oven. These tend to be of a 'European' design, where 3 phase supplies to an oven are the norm, and will be impossible to fit a 6mm2 T&E cable into.

As fair as I know our electrics are pretty close to uk and different to mainland EU since most our products come through UK. I will have to check manufacture's guidelines for fuse specifics. thanks

 

[carl87]

Depends whether the manufacturer's instructions allow a 20A MCB, or insist on 16A.
There'll also probably be a physical problem with the connection box to the new oven. These tend to be of a 'European' design, where 3 phase supplies to an oven are the norm, and will be impossible to fit a 6mm2 T&E cable into.

That seems to be the general consensus as far as easiest route. will have to check what the manufacturer guide is and go from there. Do you reckon I need a cooker plate or are block connectors permitted in this instance?

 

[brianmoooore]

If the terminal box on the oven is of the type I referred to, the connection will need to be a rubber type flexible cable (possibly 5 core, with two cores paralleled for the neutral), so a cable outlet plate and box will be needed , unless it's possible to get the flex back to the isolator switch.

 

[carl87]

That seems to be the general consensus as far as easiest route. will have to check what the manufacturer guide is and go from there. Do you reckon I need a cooker plate or are block connectors permitted in this instance?

oven has Its own flex (18") coming from internally with live, neutral and earth.

 

[brianmoooore]

oven has Its own flex (18") coming from internally with live, neutral and earth.

That avoids that particular problem of the connection box, if there isn't one.
Cable outlet plate needed then, but if the cable's only 18" , it'll need thinking about as to where to put it, so that the oven can be removed for servicing.

 

[carl87]

That avoids that particular problem of the connection box, if there isn't one.
Cable outlet plate needed then, but if the cable's only 18" , it'll need thinking about as to where to put it, so that the oven can be removed for servicing.

Your a gent, thanks for your time. Feel a lot better about it now. I'll await some more guidance from a local electrician and find out what the manufacturer recommends.

 

[brianmoooore]

Title of this thread reminds me of the time when I was called out to the same house on Christmas morning two years running, because their oven wouldn't work. First year it was a small nail that had gone through a grill at the back of the tumble drier and lodged in the element, when it was used overnight, tripping out the RCD. Second year it was the bare overhead supply cables outside that had touched together in the overnight gale. Handed that one over to Western Power.

 

[carl87]

Title of this thread reminds me of the time when I was called out to the same house on Christmas morning two years running, because their oven wouldn't work. First year it was a small nail that had gone through a grill at the back of the tumble drier and lodged in the element, when it was used overnight, tripping out the RCD. Second year it was the bare overhead supply cables outside that had touched together in the overnight gale. Handed that one over to Western Power.

I can only imagine the amount of speaks called out on Xmas day. With everything on full and trying out left right and centre. Eek

 

[brianmoooore]

These were both random things that could have happened at any time. Pure coincidence both were on Christmas day.
Fortunately, the property in question is only half a mile from me.

 

[Risteard]

If the new oven only takes 16A, then a 20A supply will be fine. Ovens are classed as a "fixed load" so it can never be over 16A

Just needs hardwired into where the old oven was.

An electrician will also check that the circuit is suitable, including having RCD protection.

RCD protection won't be required for the cooker circuit.

 

[littlespark]

RCD protection won't be required for the cooker circuit.

Might be.

Cable route, socket on cooker switch..... And i would certainly like the big lump of metal in my kitchen to be protected.

 

[Risteard]

Priory
Cable route, socket on cooker switch..... And i would certainly like the big lump of metal in my kitchen to be protected.

This is in Dublin. No RCD will be required. The cooker isolator can't have a socket-outlet on it.

 

[pc1966]

This is in Dublin. No RCD will be required. The cooker isolator can't have a socket-outlet on it.

I did not realise that ROI did not allow cooker switch/socket combinations.

As for RCD in general, do you not have the buried cable at < 50mm from surface rule we in the UK have?

 

[littlespark]

I was forgetting it was NI. Ignore me


Oh. you have

 

[davesparks]

And i would certainly like the big lump of metal in my kitchen to be protected.

Why? You wouldn't normally RCD protect a fixed appliance in any other installation,