Discuss Old Surgical light - power lead in the Lighting Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hi,

I am looking to try and get the attached surgical light up and running. I have opened it up and the wiring all looks pretty sound and in good condition. Just wondering what kind of power lead i would need? Can i make one myself?

Also, will i be okay to use led bulbs in it or would it need some kind of transformer?

Please find pictures attached for reference. Any advice would be much appreciated.

Many Thanks

Shell
 

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Look on the lamps (bulbs) there should be a voltage and wattage quoted.
 
5 x 50w lamps = 250w 24v psu
i would be inclined to go for a 300w unit to give a bit of leeway so it is not running at its maximum load continually.

Ac or Dc will both be suitable.
 
Hi,

I am looking to try and get the attached surgical light up and running. I have opened it up and the wiring all looks pretty sound and in good condition. Just wondering what kind of power lead i would need? Can i make one myself?

Also, will i be okay to use led bulbs in it or would it need some kind of transformer?

Please find pictures attached for reference. Any advice would be much appreciated.

Many Thanks

Shell
Do you have the other parts, looks like it is missing the cantilever arm and mounting plate. Normally the mounting plate carries the power supply on these fittings
 
Hi,

Apologies for the radio silence - my kid got sick so I'm only just getting back to this!

I don't have any of the other parts unfortunately! I'll look into getting a PSU from ebay - will i still need the same if i was to put colour changing LED lightbulbs in it? Hoping to make it a decorative feature!

Many Thanks

Shell
 
The wiring and switch are probably not rated for 230V, therefore either a complete rebuild is needed or you should stick with 12/24V. You can fit LEDs that use an external driver or power supply, but not 230V ones. LEDs will use less power but will not give the same lighting effect - the original crown-silvered lamps give a very controlled and direct beam with minimum glare.
 
Image 8819 shows, on the left, what looks like a wirewound resistor on a ceramic former, with its wires insulated by ceramic beads, connected to a rotary(?) switch. It's presumably to dim the light given the rating of the old bulbs. Depending what bulbs you decide to use, this may still work, may just not do anything, or you may have to take it out of circuit.
Good luck with the project.
 

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