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Domestic Outdoor IP68 Joint Boxes

Discuss Outdoor IP68 Joint Boxes in the Electrical Tools and Products area at ElectriciansForums.net

Midwest

Electrician's Arms
I'm installing some outdoor lighting (in my garden). Run some swa to Wiska boxes. I intend to go from there with some TRS flex close to each light. The lights I've have are sealed, with 1.5m of flex, so I will have to extend the flexes. Was going to use some small Wiska boxes etc to do this, but they will take up to much room, so I was considering using something like this;

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07Q29MY8M/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07Q29MY8M

Has anyone used anything like this or have other recommendations?
 

Richard Burns

Respected Member
So long as the outside diameter of the flexes that enter the enclosure is between 4mm and 9mm and there is only one flex going into each end then the seal should be fine and they would be OK for use.
 

Charlie_

Electrician's Arms
I’ve used then a few times.
But fiddly and the glands tend to slip when nipped up..
Once done I also wrapped them up in self amalgamating tape
 

pirate

Regular EF Member
Looking at the full specs. it says Voltage: 4.5v/3xAA batteries...
but I suspect that's a misprint...
 

Midwest

Electrician's Arms
Not with a great deal of success! I would suggest using something like link below and filled with gel.

Incidentally how far are they being extended and what mechanical protection are you providing?
Have you used the ones I posted?

About 2m. They will be run in a raised bed, which once the plants have been added, will have little regular gardening. Was thinking of running the flexes in some 20mm flexible conduit, just to keep them out of the way.

Had thought of using some NYY-J cable, but thought that was over egging it a bit, and would need different JB's?
 

Paignton pete

Regular EF Member
Yes I've used them. There pretty good.
Much better than wiska boxes which are pretty good, but will still let water sneak in over time due to expansion and contraction of air inside.
 

Charlie_

Electrician's Arms
Whats the voltage?
I never have any mains voltage for low level garden lighting, saves so much hassle..
Last job I done I also used pratley boxes as the previous attempt had used Wiska boxes and they had miserably failed but they were buried below ground, mains voltage and constantly tripping..
 

DefyG

Regular EF Member
Yes used those but as said not with a great deal of success. (Not when used for IP68 protection!).

The NIC picked up on a garden installation we did a few years back in that the flexible conduit we used offered no mechanical protection and that we should use 'earthed plastic sheathed metal flexible conduit' for similar applications in the future!
Bit of an overkill in my opinion!
 

Midwest

Electrician's Arms
Whats the voltage?
I never have any mains voltage for low level garden lighting, saves so much hassle..
Last job I done I also used pratley boxes as the previous attempt had used Wiska boxes and they had miserably failed but they were buried below ground, mains voltage and constantly tripping..
Extra low. I'm going to use some Collingwood GL016 ground lights, in a wall, for step lighting!

Tried them out with their non IP rated driver, which I was going to house in a Wiska box. From the comments here, think I'll use their IP rated drivers.
 

Midwest

Electrician's Arms
Somewhat controversial, the other lights I'm gonna put in are Philips Hue Lily's, so just using their cabling, might try and squeeze them into some flexible conduits as well.
 

Midwest

Electrician's Arms
Yes used those but as said not with a great deal of success. (Not when used for IP68 protection!).

The NIC picked up on a garden installation we did a few years back in that the flexible conduit we used offered no mechanical protection and that we should use 'earthed plastic sheathed metal flexible conduit' for similar applications in the future!
Bit of an overkill in my opinion!
I'm not letting the NIC anywhere near my garden :)
 

Charlie_

Electrician's Arms
Just a thought;
Is it not feasible to locate the driver indoors at the start of the circuit?
Or do you need the mains voltage further down the line?
 

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