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Hi
I am wanting to put a couple of LED Floodlights along the front of my house and a couple more in a barn that is next to the gable end of my house (3 meters away) , the only feed I have outside is a small floodlight on the gable end , (next to the barn) this is run off the house lower light circuit .
It would be most probably be ok ( I think ) if it was only going to supply 4x 30W LED Floodlights , but someone could change that to a higher wattage later ! .

The problem I have is that the CU is in the middle of the house , so very difficult to take another feed from it .
So what I was thinking was taking a feed from the lower ring main ( a lower floor socket next to the gable end , and somehow fitting it into a 5A fused spur , using 1.5mm2 cable , then take my feed from that to the 2 light circuits outside ! .



Spike44
 
5A FCU next to socket. drill out and use black flex for floods. wiska box beside each light to join to the floodlight's pre-wired flex.
 
Welcome to the forum mate.
Does the circuit you are thinking of using have RCD protection?
 
5A FCU next to socket. drill out and use black flex for floods. wiska box beside each light to join to the floodlight's pre-wired flex.
Thanks for reply , yes have got some wiska boxes , the flex outside was going to be another question , what do you mean black flex , it has to be weather and uv resistant !
 
Thanks for reply , yes have got some wiska boxes , the flex outside was going to be another question , what do you mean black flex , it has to be weather and uv resistant !
yep. most flex is weather resistant, but black is better for UV resistance.
 
Welcome.
I think I’d be tempted to use arctic flex in your neck of the woods. Also you state barn.
Is it a farm by any change or a property out in the sticks suseptable to particular exposed weather climates?

BTW what field of electrician where you?
 
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I think I’d be tempted to use arctic flex in your neck of the woods.

Why, I can't think of any advantage to using Arctic, and it would look terrible.
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Thanks for reply , yes have got some wiska boxes , the flex outside was going to be another question , what do you mean black flex , it has to be weather and uv resistant !

Generally black sheathed cable is more UV resistant than other colours, a tough rubber flex such as H07RNF is generally preferable for external use.
 
Parts of Yorkshire can get pretty wild in winter. They can get well below -15 degrees Celsius

That doesn't necessitate the use of Arctic flex though, the main point of Arctic flex is that it remains flexible at low temperatures which isn't a requirement of fixed installations.
H07RNF in fixed installations is rated to -30C so should be adequate, and not as ugly as blue, yellow or orange cable.
 
Welcome to the forum mate.
Does the circuit you are thinking of using have RCD protection?
Hi thanks for your reply , yes it will come from a RCD protected circuit
Welcome.
I think I’d be tempted to use arctic flex in your neck of the woods. Also you state barn.
Is it a farm by any change or a property out in the sticks suseptable to particular exposed weather climates?

BTW what field of electrician where you?
yes it is on open fields
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Hi thanks for your reply , yes it will come from a RCD protected circuit

yes it is on open fields
Auto elec
 
Thanks for the reply mate.
Do the floodlight have flying leads or do you wire directly to them?
 
Thanks for the reply mate.
Do the floodlight have flying leads or do you wire directly to them?
They are just the basic floods , will make fly leads to go into a wiska box for each of them
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Parts of Yorkshire can get pretty wild in winter. They can get well below -15 degrees Celsius
Hi , Thanks for your reply , it does get quite windy and cold but glad to say not that cold though .
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Thanks for all your replies , can I just confirm that it would not be recommended o take the feed from the lower floor light circuit has I had first mentioned ? .
 
Last edited:
Thanks for all your replies , can I just confirm that it would not be recommended o take the feed from the lower floor light circuit has I had first mentioned ? .

You are only adding 4x30W (120W total. About 0.5A) to the lighting circuit. I can't see this as a problem.... Depending on existing lights on this circuit.
 
A lot of these LED floods come with a pre wired fly lead, and some soldered in, so can’t be replaced with longer if needed.

There’s no issue adding 4 x 30W to an existing lighting circuit as long as it’s already not near overloaded.
What size is the old floodlight you’re taking down? If it’s a 200W halogen tube, I think it’ll be fine.

Also need to think how the new ones are switched? All together or individually? On PIR sensors?
 
If you can wire direct into the light you won’t need a junction box. Just try and arrange the cable so that it doesn’t run down into the light as water will get in.
 
Thanks everyone for posting replies to me , just one more question could I use 1.0mm2 cable for the house n barn , the barn will be SWA cable up into the barn .

cheers
 
Why, I can't think of any advantage to using Arctic, and it would look terrible.
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Generally black sheathed cable is more UV resistant than other colours, a tough rubber flex such as H07RNF is generally preferable for external use.
Hi

Is this the type you are are talking about : H07RN-F Type 4-Core Rubber Cable Black 1.5mm² , need 4 core for a switch on the house , just below the floods ?.
 

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