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MoopMoop

DIY
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Hi
Our oven stopped working suddenly including the clock. It was on the fan oven setting at about 150 degrees. I checked the fuse board - it had not tripped. A little bit later when I used one of the gas hobs (the gas hobs have an automatic igniter) the oven came back to life ie clock came back on. However when I turned oven to fan and turned up the temp it died again. Any advice gratefully received.

Thanks
 
Could be a faulty connection either inside the oven or in the circuit feeding it, or an electronic fault on the control / timer module.

A bad / high-resistance connection can heat up and break contact when subjected to the load of the elements, but then remake when it cools. For this reason, even if the oven started working normally, the fault should be investigated as an oveheating connection will get worse and eventually burn out.

The first troubleshooting step would be to check whether there is still a supply as far as the oven when dead, and/or inspect the likely troublemakers. What kind of circuit is it supplied from? Is a 13A socket involved? If so, have you inspected the plug and socket yet for signs of burnout?
 
Is it one unit? Gas hobs on top of the floor-standing oven? Then it's probably broken.

If they're separate, could well be the house wiring's broken. Do you have a switch in the fuse board called cooker?
 
Could be a faulty connection either inside the oven or in the circuit feeding it, or an electronic fault on the control / timer module.

A bad / high-resistance connection can heat up and break contact when subjected to the load of the elements, but then remake when it cools. For this reason, even if the oven started working normally, the fault should be investigated as an oveheating connection will get worse and eventually burn out.

The first troubleshooting step would be to check whether there is still a supply as far as the oven when dead, and/or inspect the likely troublemakers. What kind of circuit is it supplied from? Is a 13A socket involved? If so, have you inspected the plug and socket yet for signs of burnout?
I'm afraid don't know what kind of circuit it is. Can't see a 13A plug in adjoining cupboards so assume it's hardwired
 
Is it one unit? Gas hobs on top of the floor-standing oven? Then it's probably broken.

If they're separate, could well be the house wiring's broken. Do you have a switch in the fuse board called cooker?
Thanks for your response. It's not one unit. Separate hob and oven. Yes there is a switch called cooker in fuse board
 
Shouldn't be. does the fuse board switch say 32 on it. How many doors does your oven have? One doors are always plugged into a socket somewhere, 2 doors are always hardwired.

Have you re-arranged pots and pans underneath recently, done any building work? I'd check to see if there are any plug sockets at the back of cupboards adjacent to them, might have knocked a plug out?
 
Shouldn't be. does the fuse board switch say 32 on it. How many doors does your oven have? One doors are always plugged into a socket somewhere, 2 doors are always hardwired.

Have you re-arranged pots and pans underneath recently, done any building work? I'd check to see if there are any plug sockets at the back of cupboards adjacent to them, might have knocked a plug out?
You are making too many confusing assumptions here the oven needs turning off and someone to investigate.
 
Accidental unpluging at the back of a cupboard is the last user diagnosable fault I can suggest from here.
Turn it off at the big red oven switch in the kitchen if you have one, until an electrician can look at it further. Best to leave the gas hob auto-igniting as it was. Might be time to start browsing the internet for new ovens
 
Shouldn't be. does the fuse board switch say 32 on it. How many doors does your oven have? One doors are always plugged into a socket somewhere, 2 doors are always hardwired.

What? Why shouldn't the hob ignition be on the cooker circuit?

There's nothing to link the number of doors with the connection method either!
 
Shouldn't be. does the fuse board switch say 32 on it. How many doors does your oven have? One doors are always plugged into a socket somewhere, 2 doors are always hardwired.

Have you re-arranged pots and pans underneath recently, done any building work? I'd check to see if there are any plug sockets at the back of cupboards adjacent to them, might have knocked a plug out?
Fuse switch says B32. Only one door on oven. Will check again re sockets
 
What? Why shouldn't the hob ignition be on the cooker circuit?

There's nothing to link the number of doors with the connection method either!
I thought that, but I do a lot of council kitchens and was looking recently. You can't buy a 2 door electric oven unit that runs off a 13a supply, they're all over 3kW. And you cant buy a 1 door electric oven that needs over 3kW. It's a helpful rule of thumb for when clients just show you a photo on their phone.

Hobs are a pain now as they can be anything, ive seen 40A recently. Council wants ignitions on the kitchen ring with a switched fused spur with neon. SFSs for the cooker hood, fridge, WM, DW, Ign and extractor fan. Cooker isolator incorporating a 13a outlet to feed only the cooker outlet plate on the cooker circuit.

I just do what I'm told. At least OP has a labelled cooker circuit
 
You can't buy a 2 door electric oven unit that runs off a 13a supply, they're all over 3kW. And you cant buy a 1 door electric oven that needs over 3kW.

Whilst there is correlation between the number of doors and the power rating, this still does not tell you much about the connection method.

. Council wants ignitions on the kitchen ring with a switched fused spur with neon.

So the specific council you are working for specify that the ignition not be on the cooker circuit, that doesn't dictate what 'should' be done in any other installation.
 
Whilst there is correlation between the number of doors and the power rating, this still does not tell you much about the connection method.



So the specific council you are working for specify that the ignition not be on the cooker circuit, that doesn't dictate what 'should' be done in any other installation.
OP just said a 1 door oven, so without being there I'd be looking for a 13A plug probably in a 13A outlet on the wall below the countertop height. Possibly 2G as the ignition turns off too.

There's a separate 32A MCB labelled cooker in the CU, might be mis-labelled kitchen ring? Might be all the sockets on that wall, and the rest of the kitchen is on the DS ring? Hard to tell from here. The cable size might give it away, although still who would run and label a cooker 32A circuit for a <3kW oven and a gas hob?

I'm not allowed to chop the 3A plug off of a gas hob and wire it straight into the 32A cooker outlet plate. My council is cheap, but they're strict on that sort of thing. I also can't run bathroom fans straight off of the electric shower
 
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