PC power supply, Please Help

[Mrpotatohead]

Hello,

My PC Power Supply Unit came fitted with a 13A fuse in the power cable. When i just turned my pc on it blown the fuse and now its completely dead. I took the Power Supply Unit out and checked the label and it says:

Input Current 10A – 5A

I did not realise this as i thought the cable that came with the unit would just work straight out the box! My question is, do i use a 10A fuse or 5A?? and would they be safe to plug in a power strip?

Thank you!

 

[Bob Geldoff1234]

If the fuse went with a bang then it's unlikely that a new one will work.
It looks like you will need a new power supply.
Is the computer a laptop or a tower?

 

[LeeH]

13A is the correct size.

As Bob said, if it’s popping fuses throw it away.

 

[dmxtothemax]

No computor would ever need 10A at mains voltage,
It may hit very brief pulses of 10A
probably during switch on.
I think on a long term average 5a would be plenty.

 

[Mrpotatohead]

If the fuse went with a bang then it's unlikely that a new one will work.
It looks like you will need a new power supply.
Is the computer a laptop or a tower?

The computer is a tower, the power supply is completely dead. Every time i switch the switch at the socket it makes a pop sound but this time it sparked and the fuse jumped in my house.

The label says Input Current 10A – 5A

Why was a 13A fitted? when the label says 10A- 5A. what is the correct Fuse AMP that i need?

 

[Mrpotatohead]

13A is the correct size.

As Bob said, if it’s popping fuses throw it away.

Why is 13A correct???

 

[LeeH]

Why is 13A correct???

1. It came with a 13A from the manufacturer.
2. 3A is too small
3. The code of practice for testing and inspecting portable appliances only recognises 3A and 13A.

 

[Mrpotatohead]

1. It came with a 13A from the manufacturer.
2. 3A is too small
3. The code of practice for testing and inspecting portable appliances only recognises 3A and 13A.

So if the 13A is correct what caused it to blow? This is the second time it has happened, the current power supply unit is a replacement.

 

[Pete E]

Every time i switch the switch at the socket it makes a pop sound but this time it sparked and the fuse jumped in my house.

So if the 13A is correct what caused it to blow? This is the second time it has happened, the current power supply unit is a replacement.

Is the power supply the correct one for the PC?

Are you plugging the power lead direct into the socket in the wall, or via any extension leads?

I am not a spark, but I would think the PC might be faulty or failing that, possibly a fault in the socket where the power lead is plugged into....

If you are unsure about these things, you will either need to get the PC checked or call a spark to verify the eclectics are ok...

 

[Deleted member 105166]

So if the 13A is correct what caused it to blow? This is the second time it has happened, the current power supply unit is a replacement.

Did you experience the same with the original PSU, i.e. blowing fuses?
Or is this unique to the replacement?

In a fault condition, an appliance may attempt to draw an unlimited amount of current, which is why there are protective devices in place. The first protective device is the fuse in the plugtop, which is what has blown in this case, as it should. Upstream from that you'll have a miniature circuit breaker, or fuse of some sort (which would have blown if the fused plugtop were not there). My point being, the size of the fuse is not the cause of the problem.

 

[Pete E]

Just another thought, but don't tower PC usually have a built in PSU meaning they just use a power lead to connect to the mains?

In fact I don't recall the last time I saw a tower PC with a separate PSU...

 

[Martyn Fletcher]

If your PC is drawing enough current to blow a 13A fuse then I would suggest your PSU is faulty and you need to get it checked/changed.
Even an 850 Watt PSU at 240V will draw less than 4A so the 13A fuse is overkill from the outset and risked frying something.
Due to the use of the interchangeable "Kettle leads" many PC owners and incompetent repairers ended up using a 13A kettle lead to replace the 5A power lead supplied by manufacturers.
Edit: Internally your PC may draw higher currents through the various rails as it is running at lower voltages, but this will not blow a fuse in your power lead.

 

[LeeH]

So if the 13A is correct what caused it to blow? This is the second time it has happened, the current power supply unit is a replacement.

Maybe it’s just faulty, incorrect size.

 

[Deleted member 105166]

Just another thought, but don't tower PC usually have a built in PSU meaning they just use a power lead to connect to the mains?

In fact I don't recall the last time I saw a tower PC with a separate PSU...

The OP hasn't said it is a "separate" PSU, in the first post he said he took it out to check...

 

[Pete E]

The OP hasn't said it is a "separate" PSU, in the first post he said he took it out to check...

I'm with you now ..it was just the way I was reading it...

 

[Deleted member 105166]

Even an 850 Watt PSU at 240V will draw less than 4A so the 13A fuse is overkill from the outset and risked frying something.
Due to the use of the interchangeable "Kettle leads" many PC owners and incompetent repairers ended up using a 13A kettle lead to replace the 5A power lead supplied by manufacturers.

The lead supplied will typically be rated to 10A and fitted with a non-rewirable (moulded) plugtop and 13A fuse, in accordance with ISITEE 15.12

There is a difference between "kettle leads" which are slotted and fitted with IEC60320 C15 connectors (rated to 120deg/C), and computer leads, which use the C13 connector (rated to 70deg/C) Both types current rating is 10A.

 

[LeeH]

If your PC is drawing enough current to blow a 13A fuse then I would suggest your PSU is faulty and you need to get it checked/changed.
Even an 850 Watt PSU at 240V will draw less than 4A so the 13A fuse is overkill from the outset and risked frying something.
Due to the use of the interchangeable "Kettle leads" many PC owners and incompetent repairers ended up using a 13A kettle lead to replace the 5A power lead supplied by manufacturers.
Edit: Internally your PC may draw higher currents through the various rails as it is running at lower voltages, but this will not blow a fuse in your power lead.

How does the fuse in the plug top protect the appliance via a PSU?

 

[LeeH]

Ok so this is an internal PSU?

 

[Pete E]

The lead supplied will typically be rated to 10A and fitted with a non-rewirable (moulded) plugtop and 13A fuse, in accordance with ISITEE 15.12

There is a difference between "kettle leads" which are slotted and fitted with IEC60320 C15 connectors (rated to 120deg/C), and computer leads, which use the C13 connector (rated to 70deg/C) Both types current rating is 10A.

Don't most onboard PSU's also have their own fuses as well?

 

[telectrix]

How does the fuse in the plug top protect the appliance via a PSU?

it doesn't. the plug fuse is there to protect the cable from overload/short circuit.