quick Q re kitchen grid switch

[J.C.E]

Evening chaps

just quick one

looking at a job to do some bits- and rewire kitchen is on the to do list...

clients got me doubting myself now- even though I know I am right (well 99.98% now lol)

he wants the under unit points- isolation above at a central grid switch which is fair enough
so he went on to says 8way switch (4 switches and 4 fuses)

I told him you only need the dp switch for isolation purposes and the fuse is only needed to down rate if needed...

Was planning on running my ring through 4 of the dp switches (supply side)
and then spur off each dp switch in 2.5mm to the associated socket underneath (from load side)
and just have a dp switch AND grid spur for the the boiler- so just use a 5way grid (4x dp sw's and 1fuse)

spurring once off of the dp switch is no different from spurring once off of a outlet right...

 

[J.C.E]

bump!!!!

 

[Richard Burns]

You are correct there is no requirement to fuse down a socket fed from the DP switch(es) on the ring.

 

[amlu]

and you better wire it in singles in conduit, terminating 2.5 t+e in those little switches will end up with lots of swearing.

 

[edrobbo8]

Just make sure your back box is deep enough, as amlu said terminating 2.5 T&E is a right pain and you need lots of space behind!!

 

[Phoenix]

I have just done one and used fuses in the grid switch assembly, but I terminate into a connection plate behind the appliance rather than a socket and ahrd wire the appliance into that; then if the fuse does go I can easily replace it without dragging the associated appliance out or having to partially dismantle a built in appliance...my 2p worth...