Discuss Range Cooker Help please! in the Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations area at ElectriciansForums.net

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JoeJ

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Hi All,

My mum has just moved house and is looking at replacing the range cooker in the new property, but has been told that she can’t have the Rangemaster installed today without having an electricity powerline that supports 32 amp connection with 240 volts via a 6 mil power line installed.

She's sort of got her heart set on this cooker and - with Christmas dinner planned at hers this year - she's absolutely gutted.

I was wondering, if the above makes sense, what sort of work would be required to have the cooker fitted.

Would anyone be able to tell me off the back of the limited info above what sort of work would need to be carried out, i.e. would all the work take place behind the cooker, or would tiles need to be removed from the wall and the floor etc?

Sorry to sound dumb.

Cheers,

Joe
 
The cooker requires a dedicated circuit of the mentioned characteristics.
If no dedicated cooker circuit exists in the required location then a cable will need to be run from the consumer unit to the cooker location. Get a local electrician to advise on routes and to give you a quote.
 
Just to double the frustration, I had my Rangemaster fitted ('cos they take away old oven), the 'engineer' insisted it needed a 40A supply fed via 10mm cable (don't ask forum members), otherwise he couldn't fit it.

As luck would have it, I predicted that eventually some years before, so it was fitted by said 'engineer'.

I did subsequently clamp, with all guns blazing, theologically speaking :D, and I could only ever get about 13A.

So I would clarify with Rangemaster on their requirements, if being fitted by them.
 
Thanks for your replies so far everyone, it’s much appreciated.

To add more, there’s no isolation switch or cooker outlet in the kitchen, just a plug with a 2.5mm cable in the wall.

It’s Rangemaster who advised they will need the 6mm cable with 32amp connection.

Gutted for my mum!

I’m thinking we would need to get someone to play around with the circuit board in the cupboard in the hallway of their new bungalow and wire through the living room into the kitchen, which sounds like a bit of a mission. Could this be right? If so, would anyone like to hazard a guess as to how much this might cost?

Many thanks again,

Joe
 
Just a general question to the forum guys/girls.
If the OP is getting a cable installed for a cooker, would it be better to go for 10mm, therefore giving them more scope for future cookers in the future? or just stick with what is needed now, 6mm?
 
it's a bungalow,so a new cable run would be through attic.
 
Just a general question to the forum guys/girls.
If the OP is getting a cable installed for a cooker, would it be better to go for 10mm, therefore giving them more scope for future cookers in the future? or just stick with what is needed now, 6mm?
Hi - it's rare to need more than 6mm for hob and oven. But if a total rewire was being done I would ask for 10mm, as it's a right Brexit if you need it later. Same thought goes for shower circuits.
 
Just a general question to the forum guys/girls.
If the OP is getting a cable installed for a cooker, would it be better to go for 10mm, therefore giving them more scope for future cookers in the future? or just stick with what is needed now, 6mm?

I tend to overspec when installing cooker or shower circuits in order to give the client more options in the future without the disruption of having to upgrade circuits.
 
Just a general question to the forum guys/girls.
If the OP is getting a cable installed for a cooker, would it be better to go for 10mm, therefore giving them more scope for future cookers in the future? or just stick with what is needed now, 6mm?

Never have for a cooker, 6mm max every time unless the installation methods needed otherwise.
I can see the point in putting 10mm in for showers though as they generally are of the larger flavour nowadays.
 
Just a general question to the forum guys/girls.
If the OP is getting a cable installed for a cooker, would it be better to go for 10mm, therefore giving them more scope for future cookers in the future? or just stick with what is needed now, 6mm?
I put a 10mm in my old house, during extension. It stopped the engineer winginging 8 years later (#4).
 

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