Discuss Remote cooker switch? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

B

brman

I don't suppose anyone knows of a remote cooker switch? i.e. actual wiring and switch can be hidden behind the cooker and controlled from a switch elsewhere?
It will be on a 32A circuit.

It needs to be relatively small, say fit in a 35mm 2G backbox sort of size so I suspect that rules out a contactor unless anyone knows of low profile contactors?

That does beg another question, is there any reason why a contactor (normally open) switched via a grid switch would not fit the requirement for a cooker switch?
 
why do you need 2 switches ?

just ditch the isolator behind the cooker for a connection outlet and use a sole switch at the prefered location.

using a contactor will still mean running in a 6A control feed to the 2nd switch.
 
as biff says. where you want the switch, fit the cooker isolator. don't have to be right by the cooker.
 
The place I want to put the switch is about 1.5m from the cooker but fiddly to get a cable to. I rather use a small cable for that rather that run out and back again with the cooker cable.
I could do it this way but am just checking if there are any other options.....

EDIT: forgot to add, I also don't really have space for a normal cooker switch, hence the question about using a grid switch as I can then lump it in with the other appliances.
 
fiddly????? since when did that bother us sparks. now if you were a plumber, i'd understand. fiddly to a plumber means just drop the pipes on the surface and cover with some ill fitting, badly designed god-awful capping.
 
fiddly????? since when did that bother us sparks. now if you were a plumber, i'd understand. fiddly to a plumber means just drop the pipes on the surface and cover with some ill fitting, badly designed god-awful capping.

fiddly as in "I can't be arsed, this job is already taking far too long and I just want it done as quickly as possible" :lol:

Unless someone comes up with a nice solution I will probably have to stop moaning and get on with it but I am still curious - lets say I didn't want a big ugly cooker switch in the kitchen, is there anything to stop me using a contactor plus grid switch? (apart from cost and the derision of other sparks of course.... ;) )
 

I've got to admit I didn't even think of looking for one of those. For some reason I assumed 20A would be my max. Mind you, getting two cooker cables into the same backbox as half a dozen other appliances doesn't sound like a fun job!
 
the regs permit the use of mcb for isolation.

i expect much worried hand-wringing , gasps of disbelief , and further posts starting with " but its good practice........"

;-)
 
I've got to admit I didn't even think of looking for one of those. For some reason I assumed 20A would be my max. Mind you, getting two cooker cables into the same backbox as half a dozen other appliances doesn't sound like a fun job!

ffs , shall i just drive round and connect the wires for you ?
all youve done is whinge.

man the f*** up.
;-)
 
the regs permit the use of mcb for isolation.

i expect much worried hand-wringing , gasps of disbelief , and further posts starting with " but its good practice........"

;-)

Doesn't it need to be emergency isolation for cookers? That would make it a requirement for DP wouldn't it? (saying that I don't have time atm to check the regs so I am probably talking out of my arse...)
 
Doesn't it need to be emergency isolation for cookers? That would make it a requirement for DP wouldn't it? (saying that I don't have time atm to check the regs so I am probably talking out of my arse...)

Biff is completely and utterly correct. Ditch the cooker switch full stop! I wouldn't give it a second thought if I knew that wiring in a seperate cooker switch was going to be particularly difficult.

Anyone who says you can't do this is a moron!
 
Biff is completely and utterly correct. Ditch the cooker switch full stop! I wouldn't give it a second thought if I knew that wiring in a seperate cooker switch was going to be particularly difficult.

Anyone who says you can't do this is a moron!

Unless the manufacturers instructions state something like "must have double pole isolation with a contact gap of at least 3mm....blah blah blah.... ;)
 
That's what the main switch is for :)

you just beat me to it ;)

Although I don't disagree I think I would be concerned about not fitting the switch, if only because I would be concerned someone later would object that it wasn't a standard circuit and cause trouble.
 
I would be concerned someone later would object

I've dealt with this sort of thing on a regular basis, it used to hack me right off but now I just think 'Hell, if I've got to adapt my work to cater for the next electrician who comes and looks at it without really knowing what he's doing then I've no business being an electrician!'

If everyones work had to cater for the lowest common denominator then what's the point? We may as well scrap the regs and just work from the OSG!
 
I've used those Click 32A grid switches (they're DP, btw) several times over the last couple of years - no issues whatsoever.
 

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