Removing a bathroom shaver socket

[Duetto96]

Hi Folks,

I have a working, but redundant, shaver socket mounted on a bathroom studwall that I need to remove. That shaver socket is wired into the lighting ring and when removed, each side of the ring will need to be joined back together. That joint/connection will be inside the stud wall about half way up the wall and will not be accessible after it has been tiled over. What is the official way to make this connection? Should I use a regular junction box a connector block or do the wires need crimping, soldering or what?

I'm assuming that even though the shaver socket is currently in the bathroom, it wont be after its removal and therefore this is not a notifiable alteration. Is this correct?

Thanks,

David

 

[Deleted member 26818]

It's unlikely that you have a lighting ring, most likely a radial.
It's also unlikely that you will have to cables to the shaver socket, unless it then feeds something else, such as a fan, or a light over a mirror.
At present, the cables should be in a prescribed zone, either vertically or horizontally in line with the shaver socket.
If you remove the socket, and not the cables, the cables may no longer be in a prescribed zone.
Such is not allowed by either the wiring, or building Regulations.

 

[Duetto96]

Thanks. Some extra info... Definetely two cables one from above and one from below. They run vertical in line with the socket. The socket goes dead when I switch the upstairs lighting ring off at the consumer unit.

 

[a1guvner]

if you are trying to keep the cost down and dont want to get a sparks in, can you not incorporate the shaver socket back into the bathroom design even if you dont use it, then your job would still comply....

 

[malcolmsanford]

Thanks. Some extra info... Definetely two cables one from above and one from below. They run vertical in line with the socket. The socket goes dead when I switch the upstairs lighting ring off at the consumer unit.

Where does that go if as you say you isolate the upstairs lighting and it goes off. Is that the main feed from the CU?

 

[Rockingit]

That would be my reading on it - the vertical from below is the start of the feed. If it's inside the stud though, it could be clipped at 50mm (or more if deeper) where it's accessible and then wouldn't really be a major concern as far as zones - not ideal, but have seen a whole lot worse crimes!

Crimp and shrink, or use an MF juntion box like the Ashley ones.

 

[Octopus]

Maybe you should get a sparkie to look at the new heater for the bathroom and the removal of the shaver point!

 

[Duetto96]

if you are trying to keep the cost down and dont want to get a sparks in, can you not incorporate the shaver socket back into the bathroom design even if you dont use it, then your job would still comply....

Thanks for the help. The original shaver point is (was) in a location where a shower is soon to be. Given the location, all I want to do is make the joint secure and forget about it. Not sure I would want or need to incorporate that joint into the bathroom design.

 

[Duetto96]

That would be my reading on it - the vertical from below is the start of the feed. If it's inside the stud though, it could be clipped at 50mm (or more if deeper) where it's accessible and then wouldn't really be a major concern as far as zones - not ideal, but have seen a whole lot worse crimes!

Crimp and shrink, or use an MF juntion box like the Ashley ones.

The shaver socket is now removed and the two sides of the cable are temporarily reconnected using a connection block. All I was looking for was some advice on the proper way to permanently connect the wires back together given that they will be inaccessible once the plasterboard is tiled over. I like the idea of the ashley MF box so I think I'll run with that if I can find one.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Octopus]

I'm sorry to say you are another DIYer happy to take "guidance" over the web but have no intention to do the right thing and keep you or your family safe.

 

[malcolmsanford]

The shaver socket is now removed and the two sides of the cable are temporarily reconnected using a connection block. All I was looking for was some advice on the proper way to permanently connect the wires back together given that they will be inaccessible once the plasterboard is tiled over. I like the idea of the ashley MF box so I think I'll run with that if I can find one.

Thanks for the help.

That will still not get you past the fact that you have a buried cable, that will now not be in a prescribed zone.

OK I hope it will be RCD protected, but it still will not conform to the regs unless you give it earthed or mechanical protection.

If your doing all this work, could you not rewire the cable? Could you remove the large box and fit a smaller one and put a waterproof cover on it?

 

[Deleted member 26818]

This is why I didn't respond any further Malcolm.
It's a can of worms.

 

[SPARTYKUS]

Thall'll be another random cable then :sad_smile:

 

[Octopus]

Thall'll be another random cable then :sad_smile:

For somebody to drill into when they are putting up the shower head "support"

 

[Deleted member 26818]

For somebody to drill into when they are putting up the shower head "support"

Or perhaps some shelving on the other side of the wall?

 

[Edd]

I would have removed the shaver point, fitted a switch spur and a downflow heater in the shower cubical. something to keep the family warm while showering.. Regs,, what regs,, and part P who cares!! DIY and DIE....

 

[Deleted member 26818]

Souldn't P in the shower anyway.

 

[a1guvner]

Thats where i thought the option of leave it in place would work, next year it will be "fab idea what about a new shaver socket" unless having alayout change obviously

 

[trev]

Duetto, having read this and your other thread I have to say your enthusiasm is great. It's your skill level that worries me, it is incrediby unlikely that your lighting circuit is on a ring but you insist that this is the case. Your other thread asked some fairly basic questions about notifiability. So, a few basic questions for you if I may
1) What do you know about safe isolation procedures?
2) How do you know you have selected and installed correctly any cables and accessories you have chosen?
3) What test equipment do you have at your disposal?
4) How did you learn to use it?
Obviously I could go on but the questions may be harder for you to answer.
If you cannot answer these questions may I urge you to consult a qualified electrician as has been previously suggested. This will give you peace of mind that a job has been done to a high standard and the money spent could save an enormous amount of heartache

 

[a1guvner]

Duetto, having read this and your other thread I have to say your enthusiasm is great. It's your skill level that worries me, it is incrediby unlikely that your lighting circuit is on a ring but you insist that this is the case. Your other thread asked some fairly basic questions about notifiability. So, a few basic questions for you if I may
1) What do you know about safe isolation procedures?
2) How do you know you have selected and installed correctly any cables and accessories you have chosen?
3) What test equipment do you have at your disposal?
4) How did you learn to use it?
Obviously I could go on but the questions may be harder for you to answer.
If you cannot answer these questions may I urge you to consult a qualified electrician as has been previously suggested. This will give you peace of mind that a job has been done to a high standard and the money spent could save an enormous amount of heartache

And the possibility of saving the life of your family