Discuss Repairing a damaged back box thread. in the DIY Electrical Advice area at ElectriciansForums.net

Pete E

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It looks like the upstairs in the house has had some electrical work done in the past and I've been left with a couple of blanked off back boxes.

On one of them, the cover plate is loose and looks a little unsightly. While attempting to tighten the screws up, I found the threads on each of the bushing are buggered....

I am going to try to tidy the thread up by retapping with either a M3.5 or M4 tap.

If retapping with the M3.5 does not work, will I need to re drill/clean the holes with say a 3.5mm or 3.6mm drill before trying to run the M4 tap through it or should the M4 tap clean it up ok?

Thanks in advance,

Peter
 
Replace the back box, unless it is maybe tiled-in, or other major decor damage would result?
Or try one of these,
C.K Rethreading Tool M3.5x.6 - https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/c-k-rethreading-tool-m3-5x-6/59312?tc=JB3&ds_kid=92700022861141795&ds_rl=1249796&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249481&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI16iJkc7X2QIVS7ftCh0QTgscEAQYAyABEgJD0_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CNy8taPO19kCFYKi7QodN_QH5A
 
Backbox saver has saved me a lot of time previously. The small cost outlay is saved in not having to replace a backbox.
With some you can insert new screw plates that hook inside the back box.
Another trick is put a blank plate on front and insert a long thin rod with a bit of paint on back and push until you reach the rear of box. Then drill this mark. Insert a plug and you can then use the long uncut machine screws to fasten socket. Switch etc
 
I don't really want to remove the back box as it might damage the decorating although I might remove and fill it at a later date.

I have a tool similar to the CK one for doing this sort of thing, but the shaft is double sided, one side M3.5 and one side M4...As I recall M4 threads are used on the screws and bushings on metal conduit?

Anyway, I'll give it a go running the 3.5mm through first and then if that does not work, I'll try the M4 tap....

When I managed to get the existing screws out, it looked like somebody had tried to use screws with the wrong thread...they were close but not close enough.... the screws were also a fraction too long and were bottoming out against the back of the patress...
 
You could also use clinchnuts (sometimes called rivnuts) but I've only seen them in M4, not M3.5. I'd go with the squishing the existing hole and retap to 3.5 advice. You could also put a blob of 2-pack epoxy glue over and into the hole, give it time to set then carefully drill the epoxy and retap to 3.5mm
 
Used a Back Box Saver the other day bit fiddly but did the job.
 
You can play around re tapping and good luck to you

90% of the time,if you follow the solution given by camerabloke it works just fine
 
Thanks Gents..As I say I'll give the M3.5mm a go first as suggested and see where we go from there....
 
I've just looked up the price of them and spat my coffee out all over my keyboard, they aint cheap...
when working in a otherwise well decorated listed building, it is not always practical to replace a backbox. Have dealt with a lot of customers in the wealthier parts of town who dont mind the price and cost of having something done, they just want it done safely and to be done well. Had a saudi customer once in one of the townhouses around corner from the royal crescent tell me my quote was far too low and upped it by ÂŁ250 himself. i didnt protest! wish more customers were like that... i was only installing some lights that involved a mini tower to reach ceiling in the stairwell area that hung down at different lengths, I wish i had taken a picture as they looked impressive.
 
If your feeling really kinky you can drill and tap the back of the back box :thumbsup:
done that last week.worked a treat,but only because the masonry behind was thermalite and it didn't wreck my 3.0mm drill bit.
 
was talking about nailing the socket faceplate on.:confused:
 

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