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Hello I'm Dave, im new here so please be gentle with me. I am looking to do my first job for my cps scheme, rewire flat with plasterboard walls and ceilings. I would like advise on the best way to chase cable routes to minimize repair work, but also allows for cables to be sufficiently fixed throughout the entire length, any pics examples would be fab from you pros thanks a million
 
usually you can fish cables up and down, bearing in mind that x members in the studding walls are usually at about 1200mm. if fitted.
 
With the 18th including that cables above ceiling should be fixed with fp fixings etc, plus I dont want the risk of the cables floating about in case they were to be inadvertently pulled upon when changing a lamp for example
 
cables dangling down inside studded walls complies with most new build practices. advantage is if sombody drills into wall, cable/s will move away. no bangs.
From an engineering perspective i agree, many thanks. If I may add the customer has a 60amp plastic wylex isolator at the incomer, the tails are 16mm to my knowledge. The cu is over 3 meters away. The customer is trying to achieve a very minimal look ie kitchen sockets in the kitchen units, operated by gang modules. The customer really has a budget for reconfiguring not rewiring, but due to the fact the wiring is red and black and he wants every socket and switch moves I believe a rewire is better to eliminate jointing of the cables
 
From an engineering perspective i agree, many thanks. If I may add the customer has a 60amp plastic wylex isolator at the incomer, the tails are 16mm to my knowledge. The cu is over 3 meters away. The customer is trying to achieve a very minimal look ie kitchen sockets in the kitchen units, operated by gang modules. The customer really has a budget for reconfiguring not rewiring, but due to the fact the wiring is red and black and he wants every socket and switch moves I believe a rewire is better to eliminate jointing of the cables
I am level 3, 18th, 2391 52 just for to confirm. Forgive my questions but due to taking on my own work I really want to ensure I do it to the best of my capabilities. Thanks for your speedy non judgemental expertise
 
From an engineering perspective i agree, many thanks. If I may add the customer has a 60amp plastic wylex isolator at the incomer, the tails are 16mm to my knowledge. The cu is over 3 meters away. The customer is trying to achieve a very minimal look ie kitchen sockets in the kitchen units, operated by gang modules. The customer really has a budget for reconfiguring not rewiring, but due to the fact the wiring is red and black and he wants every socket and switch moves I believe a rewire is better to eliminate jointing of the cables
Would you agree?
 
With the 18th including that cables above ceiling should be fixed with fp fixings etc, plus I dont want the risk of the cables floating about in case they were to be inadvertently pulled upon when changing a lamp for example
It's a valid concern, although if cables are behind plasterboard, then generally the concern of premature collapse is less of an issue imo. Vertical runs less so still where they are unlikely to be an entanglement risk.

The more important issue is to have secure fixings at each termination point, fixed suitably to avoid vibration etc. (even with Wagos)...
 
With the 18th including that cables above ceiling should be fixed with fp fixings etc, plus I dont want the risk of the cables floating about in case they were to be inadvertently pulled upon when changing a lamp for example
I assume you mean changing a light fitting rather than a lamp, at each light fitting the cables should be restrained/fixed in some way so this should not cause or become a problem, hope you have a decent set of electricians rods, some more flexible than others to help feed any new cables through.
 
Like most of you guys probably encounter I have a client with a 25 year old install, that wants so many items moving and reconfiguring (2 bed flat) that to do a eicr and re jig everything plus knowing the odd joint will be concealed I'm not happy with that personally
 
That is your prerogative obviously, but you will have to modify your standards a little to continue working in a domestic environment, concealed joints can be OK, Wago box's come to mind.
 
Makes sense. While 25 or even 50 year old PVC wire can be perfectly good (if IR test fine and no green goo or other obvious damage from rodents or thermal stress), once you start looking at moving / adding more than a trivial number of accessories it can be simpler to start from scratch with a rewire.
 
That is your prerogative obviously, but you will have to modify your standards a little to continue working in a domestic environment, concealed joints can be OK, Wago box's come to mind.
Absolutely Mik4
Makes sense. While 25 or even 50 your old PVC wire can be perfectly good (if IR test fine and no green goo) once you start looking at moving more than a trivial number of accessories it can be simpler to staqrt from scratch with a rewire.
Yes my thoughts entirely, I can deal with a few wagos, but to contemplate 15 plus wouldn't allow me to sleep well. Yes in the ideal world an EICR, re jig and a EIC job done, but in that time I would easily 1st fix it with the added peace of mind
 

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