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S

seppe

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I currently have an old type rewireable fuse unit & I wish to run power to my garage to supply a light and some sockets. The cables will be run inside the house as the garage is attached but aprox 10m away from fuse board. I’ve had 4 people come and look at the job each have told me a different thing which is right or are they all right? What would you recommend?

  • Run a cable from the existing main switch to a new fuse board in the garage.
  • I need to have my old fuse board change as it is an old type and that way I would also have a spare fuse to run the new circuit.
  • spur off a socket from kitchen in to the garage
  • run a cable from an already used fuse to a new fuse board in the garage, but might need to up rate the fuse wire due to the extra load.
 
U

uksel

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #2
If you are using the 4mm cable, and you take the cable as being 15m long then the maximum demand allowable for these conditions is 5999 Watts, or 25amps

this would cover you for a radial circuit for power and a single lighting circuit
 
1

12345aob

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #3
I currently have an old type rewireable fuse unit & I wish to run power to my garage to supply a light and some sockets. The cables will be run inside the house as the garage is attached but aprox 10m away from fuse board. I’ve had 4 people come and look at the job each have told me a different thing which is right or are they all right? What would you recommend?

  • Run a cable from the existing main switch to a new fuse board in the garage.
  • I need to have my old fuse board change as it is an old type and that way I would also have a spare fuse to run the new circuit.
  • spur off a socket from kitchen in to the garage
  • run a cable from an already used fuse to a new fuse board in the garage, but might need to up rate the fuse wire due to the extra load.
don't use a spur- there's too much load.

you should really change the fuse board as it will protect your whole house and be future proof.

as for running any cable without rcd protection- it's not a great idea.
 
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uksel

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #4
100% right

i wont work on old rewireable fuseboards now. if they need work done they should upgrade, otherwise it wouldn't pass any test/inspection regardless of the work done.
 
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uksel

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #6
each to their own i guess - i have liability insurance that i don't intend on using.

rewireable fuseboards are a no for me, no rcd's, no tripping times

no thanks from me - carry on you!
 
S

seppe

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #9
Thanks for the help guys! But I take it as i have no other option but to have a new fuseboard fitted?
 
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12345aob

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #10
Thanks for the help guys! But I take it as i have no other option but to have a new fuseboard fitted?
I think it’s the best option, you could split the tails and insert another cu- but for the difference in price I would advise new cu.

If you ever want any other circuits or modifications (new shower/cooker/socket outlets) or to sell your property - it makes it a lot easier
 
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uksel

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #11
I`d love to hear how a re-wireable fuseboard can never pass an inspection, no matter what remedial work is carried out!
how many code 4's do you think is acceptable when testing an installation?

i like to keep that number relatively low
 
The best option must surely be determined by what work the customer requires to be carried out. Changing the fuseboard to enable an extra socket to be fitted would be unfair on the customer unless they were first made aware of the available options.
 
P

piggyitm

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #13
I find UKSEL's rule of thumb is quite impractical myself!Code 4s like not having brown sleeving on on a line conductor at a switch or having socket or switch outlets outside the building regs hight requirements,to name but a few,shouldn't be a money spinner in a domestic sparks interpretation of the law!I'm all for advising on how to cut upgrade costs for the customer within the scope of BS7671.Although i did take my van into the garage the other day and got charged for the rubber gloves they had to wear while they fixed it!:eek:
 
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uksel

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #14
it's not a money making scam, or i don't feel it unneccessary. changing an old fuse board to a new one which will comply is not a massive job.

also the guy isn't just putting a new socket in, he's running supply to a seperate building, which includes the provision for a new circuit, which would require a full test

i'd also add that he doesn't have any spare ways in his current distribution board which means you would be loading the supply with sockets lighting and whatever else is on the existing circuits. not only will these sockets be able to supply 240V to outside of the equipotential zone, it also wont offer any earth fault or current inbalance protection.

i again would strongly suggest upgrading the distribution board, either that or dont bother doing to work in the garage. i for one wouldn't be doing it any other way.

as for always chaging the board, i dont mean i wouldnt change a light fitting or socket face, of course these small remedial tasks wouldn't require such action, but if anything is to be changed or altered at the dis board, ie. new circuits etc.

i won't even do a periodic inspection on them, purely because if the **** does ever hit the fan, i've signed a piece of paper to say that the entire installation is 100% with no risk of death or injury what-so-ever, and i do not believe an installation of such age, with it's methods of protection can truly offer this.

upgrade upgrade upgrade
 
it's not a money making scam, or i don't feel it unneccessary. changing an old fuse board to a new one which will comply is not a massive job.

also the guy isn't just putting a new socket in, he's running supply to a seperate building, which includes the provision for a new circuit, which would require a full test

i'd also add that he doesn't have any spare ways in his current distribution board which means you would be loading the supply with sockets lighting and whatever else is on the existing circuits. not only will these sockets be able to supply 240V to outside of the equipotential zone, it also wont offer any earth fault or current inbalance protection.

i again would strongly suggest upgrading the distribution board, either that or dont bother doing to work in the garage. i for one wouldn't be doing it any other way.

as for always chaging the board, i dont mean i wouldnt change a light fitting or socket face, of course these small remedial tasks wouldn't require such action, but if anything is to be changed or altered at the dis board, ie. new circuits etc.

i won't even do a periodic inspection on them, purely because if the **** does ever hit the fan, i've signed a piece of paper to say that the entire installation is 100% with no risk of death or injury what-so-ever, and i do not believe an installation of such age, with it's methods of protection can truly offer this.

upgrade upgrade upgrade
Don`t get me wrong - I agree with most of what you say BUT refusing to do a PIR because of personal preferences could well be seen as unprofessional. A PIR is merely a report on the current condition of an installation after all.

The requirement for upgrades needs to be tempered with a great deal of common sense and good communication with the customer - which is why mine always use plain English not the `teccho babble` which is all too common amongst the scam artists (which, ironically, they probably don`t understand themselves!).:)
 
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