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S

sparkyork

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got 2 flats to do 2moro with 8 storage heaters between them. ive messed with these in the past but other than cleaning the dust out and checking for continuity on the elements etc, what else can you do with these??

wanna print a A4 checksheet off so it looks a bit professional for the customer!!

what sort of readings should you get from an element etc, any comments appreciated
 
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Storage heaters shouldn't be used to dry clothes on. They have a thermal cutout which needs to replaced and not reset. If they dont have enough air flow around them. This is on the older models. Thats about all i can tell you Sparkyork

Mark
 
G

GAZHUDDS

I've got a rewire coming up with two storage heaters in the house, it has a seperate CU for the heaters on a economy 7 meter. Now I want to keep everything on one CU as ive already bought one and dont want to buy another so my question is would it be ok for me to use one of them timed socket outlets instead of the economy 7 meter.
My plan was to wire a socket next to the storage heaters and plug them into a timed socket outlet and set the time to off peak hours.
 
H

heathelect

its possible to do that but i never have, i would use a combined consumer with 2 rcdS as per 17th for 24hr stuff, and another 100ma rcd for heaters (but not sure now whether a 100ma would comply with 17th) anyone got any ideas ? dave
 
E

electro

Hi when cleaning storage heaters out first check how old they are they may contain asbestos?
You can’t put the E7 on a socket with a timer on most E7 supplies, as most E7 supplies are trigger feed. two supplies one board big no no.
For E10 you can, as the whole supply is on peak and off peak.

The RCD issue must go on 30mA unless surface installation…
Hope this helps
 
G

GAZHUDDS

I didnt mean putting the E7 on a socket timer, I meant the storage heater.
 
E

electro

just read your post again, your quote "use one of them timed socket outlets instead of the economy 7 meter from the same board/supply" to feed the storage heater? have i quoted you correctly??? Hence my earlier reply.
 
G

GAZHUDDS

Well ive just read my post again and you have quoted me wrong. What I meant was getting rid of the E7 completly and wiring 2 radials to both storage heaters and wiring the flex of the storage heater to some sort of unit with a timer on it. You can get fused spurs with digital timers on, just wondering if you could do it?
 
E

electro

oh ok. forget the quote, un quote, "quote"

the leccy board did not like you taking the e7 supplies of the main board, but they dont mind e10 so not sure of there stance now. if your going to do it that way you should calculate the earth leakage when using split boards.
 
S

spark-doctor

Hi Rich.

I do loads of these damm things. Clean them, i use a vacuum cleaner, make sure the vents are clear and then unwire it from the wall and PAT test it. You wont be able to load it but you can do a earth bond test and a insulation resistance test as well as a leakage test.

Hope that helps.

Hi GAZHUDDS.

What is the rating of your heaters? All all night storage heaters are on there own feed from the time clock or meter. Why don't you buy a split load board with a couple of unprotected ways and fit RCBO's. You can get a small 4 way CU with RCD for £45.00 for the storage heaters. Just a few options.
 
S

sparkyork

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #11
cheers mr doc, i dropped the covers off and hoovered them out, had a peak at the elements just for visual condition, then i just did r1+r2 on the cabling supplying it. i dont have a pat tester yet. without buying a pet tester is the more you can do with a multifunction tester? also on this occassion the heaters were near enough brand new in condition, but ive been to some in the past that are pretty grim!
 
E

electro

Pardon my ignorance how do you do a leakage test? a load test is the easy one calculate KW and but your clamp meter on the feed. some elements pass the insulation test but not the load test, load test is a good one for peace of mind.
 
S

spark-doctor

Pardon my ignorance how do you do a leakage test? a load test is the easy one calculate KW and but your clamp meter on the feed. some elements pass the insulation test but not the load test, load test is a good one for peace of mind.
I use a Megger PAT4 which automatically measures the leakage during the load test.

Trying to get a clamp meter around the line wire can be almost impossible in most of the modern heaters as the terminals are usually in a enclosure and without stripping more insulation of the wall end of the cable you are going to have problems.

You are going to be limited with just a multi meter Rich but a Multi function tester can do the insulation and resistance tests.
 
S

sparkyork

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #14
sorry if typo spark doc, ive got a mulit function tester! and thats what im using
 
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