Discuss Shower isolator in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

local isolation is good practice, but, as the shower can be isolated for maintenance at the CU, i see no reg. that stipulates it as necessary.
 
Good point...

I can put a DP isolator in the loft space above, or cupboard nearby, I was just trying to avoid having a hideous big switch in the nice new bathroom!

Cupboard nearby sounds good to me. Or a decent quality ceiling isolator.
 
Good point...

I can put a DP isolator in the loft space above, or cupboard nearby, I was just trying to avoid having a hideous big switch in the nice new bathroom!
Install the switch outside the Bathroom then, not rocket science after all.
 
if quinetic could handle 10kW the switch coud be on the shower enclosure. maybe with a contactor in attic?????
 
Double pole isolation?
Is double pole isolation required? I'm looking at 537.2.6:

Means of isolation shall preferably be provided by a multipole switching device which disconnects all applicable poles of the relevant supply but single-pole devices situated adjacent to each other are not excluded, subject to the provisions of Regulation 461.2.

I read 461.2 as not needing to isolate the neutral for TN-C-S and TN-S, but need to for TT. Some other applicable regs I've overlooked?
 
I usually fit a DP in a twin-socket back box above skirting outside the bathroom. This gives plenty of room for terminating the cables, and i just put a blanking plate on one side.
Inspection is easy, space is fine, and you can stash"something" behind the blank...maybe an emergency £100...
 
I wouldnt put the switch in the loft , most lofts are full of carp and it will be lost for ever...

just fit it outside the bathroom on the wall or above the door...
 
Screenshot 2020-03-17 at 07.32.04.png
As an example here is the installation page for the Mira Sport. See pic and blurb above point 7. Why is there an argument on what to do?
 
I've ripped out enough shower pull cords in my time to know that they burn incredibly easily. 'Firestarters' I call them.

Why intentionally introduce a demonstrable point of weakness into a circuit that you'd never realistically rely on to safely isolate the load?

I've never fitted one and never will unless even after my strong advice the client were to still specifically request one.
 
Agreed, I’ve seen a fair few burn. I’ve always assumed it was due to poor termination of screws and cheap isolators. On the odd occasion we do fit them it has to be the Crabtree or Hager unit. To date not had an issue with them.
 
Agreed, I’ve seen a fair few burn. I’ve always assumed it was due to poor termination of screws and cheap isolators. On the odd occasion we do fit them it has to be the Crabtree or Hager unit. To date not had an issue with them.
I've seen a couple of the crabtree models broken too. In both cases the switching mechanism had failed due to overheated loose connections. The casing and base were all very well preserved from the effects of heat though.
 
I have fitted decent quality isolators adjacent to the DB. As long as it is suitably labelled I think that is a tidy solution for domestic. In a commercial property the isolator would have to be lockable.
 

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