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I have come to the stage where lifting floorboards by hand saw and bolster is hard work , i have used large circular saws but found them to clumsy are small plung circular saws any good for cutting tongue and groove floor boards for lifting ???
 
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S

Swicade

I've got a small £20 circular saw i use for cutting the tongue's out of floorboards i got from the nasty orange shed, cna set the depth an' all so allsgood.

Plunge saws tend to be expensive.
 
R

Rauer

What's wrong with a Stanley knife for the tongue? Seen a guy once cut through the tongue with a circular and go straight through the hot an cold pipes at the same time!!
 

i=p/u

-
Arms
i take my time anyway, thats my luck then i start kicking everything then start moping it up
 
R

Rauer

I just run the Stanley blade through it twice, takes about a minute , and that includes getting up to move !!!
 
R

Rauer

Try it it's a lot cheaper , and it's pipe freindly too!!! Oh have you got a quick release button blade cause there horrible to do this with as it somehow releases!!!
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #10
do you use this method all the time then as i have a phobia about them dam cables and water pipes lurking just under them boards
 
R

Rauer

Yeah all the time ! I've never once had a problem doing it this way! You dont really go that deep cause your blades at a 45 degree angle!
 

Strima

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Arms
Esteemed
To check the depth I have in the past drilled a 10mm hole in an obscure place, normally the corner of the room to avoid most cables and pipes, then used a piece of coat hangar wire with a small 90 degree bend in it to drop through and then pull up flush against the bottom of the board. Mark it with a pen, withdraw and measure the depth of the board.

Most modern houses you can pretty much guarantee the depth of board however I have found boards up to 1 1/2 inches on older properties. Just set the circular saw a mm or so shallower and haven't hit a pipe or cable yet, if the cut isn't quite deep enough can then run along it with the good old Stanley knife.
 
S

sparks1973

you dont need a plunge saw for this richard....just set the depth of the blade to the same hight as board thicknes....then introduce the blade to the board gradually whilst the saw is running....this is how we do it and it works fine.....in fact you can use a fein as well to get the bit near skirting boards etc that the circular saw cant reach.....just go steady....you dont need a big saw for this kind of work either....
a 7 1/2" blade one is OK....we have an hitachi....
 
R

Rauer

Yeah and you scatter the house in saw dust which you then have to tidy up from the house cause you have walked it through everywhere ! With two Stanley passes you get no dust!
 
S

sparks1973

Yeah and you scatter the house in saw dust which you then have to tidy up from the house cause you have walked it through everywhere ! With two Stanley passes you get no dust!
but if its an unocupied house....
Anyway....wonder if you can still get an `electricians skate`?...
 
You can use a Stanley on the tongues but what if you need to cut a board on a joist? Circular saw set to about 1mm short of the depth of the board is the best method I have found.
 
D

Dave 85

It never ocurred to me or any other sparky I know that you could de-tongue a floorboard with a stanley knife. Maybe Ill try it next time. I use a cordless circular saw but it drains a battery pretty quick, I'd prob buy a 240 one next time.
 
S

sparks1973

It never ocurred to me or any other sparky I know that you could de-tongue a floorboard with a stanley knife. Maybe Ill try it next time. I use a cordless circular saw but it drains a battery pretty quick, I'd prob buy a 240 one next time.
you may find a 230V one easier to get Dave...
 
K

KFH

I use a Fein and have a Festool plunge saw for big jobs. Will try the stanley knife as it is much simpler.

Used the Fein very carefully to cross cut a board and cut through the insulation and sheath of the T&E the previous "electrician" had laid on top of the joist. He had also used the CPC as neutral as he had cut the neutral too short at the metal wall light.
 
Bosch multitool is perfect for floorboards. You can cut perfectly, half way across the joist, just to the side of existing nails, then slice through the tongues. Don't think I would use anything else now. Never has making a hatch been so easy.

Btw, will get a Fein when I have saved enough :)
 
A

alli

I favour the stanley knife method. I had to lift some polished wood floor boards that were on show in a grade 1 listed manor house, real brown trouser time. Used a stanley knife as there was only a 2-3mm gap to cut the tongue, then gently lifted the board. When the boards all went back down, you wouldn't have know I'd been there. Happy days.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #24
Ok all i am going to hold back on the plunge circular saw and try the stanley knife method as it seems alot safer when trying not to hit cables or pipes and just use my hand floor board saw when cutting across a joist
 
Ok all i am going to hold back on the plunge circular saw and try the stanley knife method as it seems alot safer when trying not to hit cables or pipes and just use my hand floor board saw when cutting across a joist
If you want a neat job where you have to cut the board across the joist, then you won't go wrong with the Bosch PMF180 E Allrounder Multi Tool. Got mine from Homebase, on offer, on a 15% day for well under £60, and not looked back :)
 
D

DurhamSparky

just invested i nthe worx plunge cut 10.8v saw... depth set AND AWAY.... been only 10.8 it does not like been rushed to cut the board though!!
 
W

Windie

I use either the Bosch PMF 180 or a mains voltage Worx mini circular saw from B&Q getting spare blades for the Worx is a pain tho.
 
R

rjsv

i always use a fein multi for this sorta thing. especially when needing to saw close to skrtin
 

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