Discuss Socket not working anymore. in the Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Pete999

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Right okay. I will start with a Voltage Indicator and Proving Unit. See how much they are. I have got my FCU also. Well it could be a ring final circuit, as all of the sockets downstairs are on one mcb. There is another for the boiler and one for the old immersion heater, that we no longer have. I will check the mcb rating to see if it is a ring.

But that fcu for the light has not been used for a number of years. Its an old alleyway light, that was put in. The additional socket for the tv was added a year ago. All were working okay. I will check the connections for the socket with the new faceplate on, just to see if there are any issues. A bit of sheath in the terminals. The kewtech socket tester did not report any issues and all three lights were green. It is an odd one, for me being new its experience of trial and error and asking questions.
Checking the Breaker (OCPD) will not prove the circuit is a Ring Final (RFC) to prove it is a RFC You need to carry out the appropriate dead testing.















































































































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DPG

Respected Member
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Do some basic dead testing and draw out the circuit as you go. See what is connected to what. Post your diagram on here when you've done it.

Are you OK doing basic continuity tests once you have a meter? Do you own a copy of guidance note 3?
 

Pete999

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OP you could try looking at the YouTube videos on Testing etc, the guy I sent you a video of is very good, there are many equally good presenters in there, worth a look if you are really interested, give it a bash.
 
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RDB85

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Do some basic dead testing and draw out the circuit as you go. See what is connected to what. Post your diagram on here when you've done it.

Are you OK doing basic continuity tests once you have a meter? Do you own a copy of guidance note 3?
I’ve got the regs and an OSG. Where would you get GN3 from?
 
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RDB85

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OP you could try looking at the YouTube videos on Testing etc, the guy I sent you a video of is very good, there are many equally good presenters in there, worth a look if you are really interested, give it a bash.
Thanks Pete. I’ve seen a few of Chris’s videos before. They are really good. I will have a look at them.
 
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Pete999

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RDB85

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So I spoke to my tutor yesterday and luckily they went through safe isolation and then how to test a 3 phase distribution board. I have seen this kit on ebay: Socket And See SP200 proving unit And Socket & See Voltage Tester VIP Pro | eBay - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Socket-And-See-SP200-proving-unit-And-Socket-See-Voltage-Tester-VIP-Pro/293104145650?hash=item443e5e54f2:g:JIEAAOSwKotc69r5

Would that be okay as it seems to be a good price, but I have never heard of the brand. Or shall I just look at a Megger?

Megger:

 

Pete999

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So I spoke to my tutor yesterday and luckily they went through safe isolation and then how to test a 3 phase distribution board. I have seen this kit on ebay: Socket And See SP200 proving unit And Socket & See Voltage Tester VIP Pro | eBay - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Socket-And-See-SP200-proving-unit-And-Socket-See-Voltage-Tester-VIP-Pro/293104145650?hash=item443e5e54f2:g:JIEAAOSwKotc69r5

Would that be okay as it seems to be a good price, but I have never heard of the brand. Or shall I just look at a Megger?

Megger:

Aa long as the kit complies, but Kewtec for me.
 

Pete999

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RDB85

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Just bought an MK FCU. I’ve now safe isolated the circuit. I’ve split it so I have the circuit for the outside light. Which is to the right and then a circuit coming from the top. Old colours are from the socket below and the new colours are from the spurred socket.

Looking at the back of the MK socket it had the supply and load. I am looking at how it was wired previously

Load would be the outside light and the Supply would be the sockets.

Would that be correct?
 

Spoon

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So the old coloured cables are part of the existing RFC and the new colour is a spur socket from the RFC?
 
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RDB85

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So the old coloured cables are part of the existing RFC and the new colour is a spur socket from the RFC?
New colours are from the addition socket that is spurred from the FCU. Old colours are from the RFC. As all the sockets downstairs are on a RFC. Which is then has a feed from that socket to the FCU.
 
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RDB85

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Socket on the bottom is on a RFC. Which is in old colours. It then has a spur to the FCU above in old colours. There is then flex for the light in old colours in the FCU. Then the final socket is then spurred from the FCU in new colours.

Good news is the outside light works.
 

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RDB85

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So tried again, bought a new lamp for the outside light. Wired the spur so that the Load Side is the Light and the Supply is the sockets. Tested the socket under the bracket. Still not working with the Socket Tester. Tried the FCU with the new lamp. Nothing.

I then looked at the wiring on the RFC, it seems that one of the live (red) is quite short. It reaches into the socket but barely, so I have got a crimping tool, some blue crimps and some 2.5mm2 T&E. So I am going to try and extend any short cables. Although the socket tester has come back all green lights, showing no faults.
 

Spoon

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So tried again, bought a new lamp for the outside light. Wired the spur so that the Load Side is the Light and the Supply is the sockets. Tested the socket under the bracket. Still not working with the Socket Tester. Tried the FCU with the new lamp. Nothing.

I then looked at the wiring on the RFC, it seems that one of the live (red) is quite short. It reaches into the socket but barely, so I have got a crimping tool, some blue crimps and some 2.5mm2 T&E. So I am going to try and extend any short cables. Although the socket tester has come back all green lights, showing no faults.
So if the light, wired to the new FCU is not working then the problem is going to be before this.
Is your bottom socket functioning ok?
 
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RDB85

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So if the light, wired to the new FCU is not working then the problem is going to be before this.
Is your bottom socket functioning ok?
Yes the bottom socket is okay. Tested with a socket tester and it’s all green. TV is plugged in and working.
 

Spoon

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Yes the bottom socket is okay. Tested with a socket tester and it’s all green. TV is plugged in and working.
Edit... Brain fart moment...

So just to recap. The bottom socket is working. This wires to the new FCU which is not working.
Are the wires going from the bottom socket to the FCU ok?
 
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RDB85

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Edit... Brain fart moment...

So just to recap. The bottom socket is working. This wires to the new FCU which is not working.
Are the wires going from the bottom socket to the FCU ok?
Yes that’s correct. The wiring appears to be okay. No signs of damage. But as mentioned one of the lives although reaches just, is a little short. So I was thinking of maybe adding some blue butt crimps to that and then using some 2.5mm2 twin and earth to extend the cable. Just to see could that be the issue .
 

Spoon

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Yes that’s correct. The wiring appears to be okay. No signs of damage. But as mentioned one of the lives although reaches just, is a little short. So I was thinking of maybe adding some blue butt crimps to that and then using some 2.5mm2 twin and earth to extend the cable. Just to see could that be the issue .
The cable length looked ok in the pics you posted up before, but you are there so you will know... :)
If the light to the new FCU isn't working or the socket wired to the FCU, then it seems to suggest its the cable from the bottom socket to the FCU that may be at fault.
 
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RDB85

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The cable length looked ok in the pics you posted up before, but you are there so you will know... :)
If the light to the new FCU isn't working or the socket wired to the FCU, then it seems to suggest its the cable from the bottom socket to the FCU that may be at fault.
Those cables look okay as I say. Would it be okay to do a butt crimp on the live and use the brown from the 2.5 t&e as a new live?
 

Spoon

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Those cables look okay as I say. Would it be okay to do a butt crimp on the live and use the brown from the 2.5 t&e as a new live?
If you need to extend one on the cables then using a butt crimp and descent heatshrink would be one way of doing it.
Someone did post a nice little inline connector (Not Wago) in a past post, that looked good.
 

Rob

Control System Engineer
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Quickest way would be to just bell this wire out for continuity.
 
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