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J

jarmana100

Hi

I'm about to commence work on wiring my house for experience and wanted to pick some brains regarding the socket outlet configuration.

I was planning on having two 20Amp radial ccts one for upstairs and one for downstairs sockets.
Then a 32Amp ring for the kitchen and another 32Amp ring for the Garage

Although the house is a reasonable sized semi detached house I probably don't need as many ccts as I've mentioned, it was just I wanted to keep the ccts divided as much as possible - and will aid in future troubleshooting.

There will be approximatly 10 downstairs sockets, 12 upstairs, 4 kitchen and 6 Garage.

If anyone has any thoughts it would be greatly appreciated.
 
Hi

I'm about to commence work on wiring my house for experience and wanted to pick some brains regarding the socket outlet configuration.

I was planning on having two 20Amp radial ccts one for upstairs and one for downstairs sockets.
Then a 32Amp ring for the kitchen and another 32Amp ring for the Garage

Although the house is a reasonable sized semi detached house I probably don't need as many ccts as I've mentioned, it was just I wanted to keep the ccts divided as much as possible - and will aid in future troubleshooting.

There will be approximatly 10 downstairs sockets, 12 upstairs, 4 kitchen and 6 Garage.

If anyone has any thoughts it would be greatly appreciated.

A lot of people now are wishing to have their fridge/freezer on its own circuit so as if the rest of the sockets trip ,your freezer full of food isn't ruined if you are away for a couple of days.I would also recomend you put one in the loft.An outside socket can be handy as well if you have a garden and need to use a strimmer or want to plug in some sounds while in the garden,also sometimes one can come in usefull in the porch if you ever want to put a christmas tree there.And finally wherever your tv goes,put at least 3.A good idea I find is not to fit them back to back in 2 adjoining rooms,so as you can still have this option later,if you decide you need another one,or want to change furnature about.
 
depending on the size of your kitchen and what appliances you are planning to have in might be worth thinking about having dedicated radial circuits for certain appliances as well as you kitchen final ring circuit.

then just have a final ring for your upstairs skts then another for your down stairs skts
 
With regards no. of sockets i generally take into account what you want to do with the house in a later date.

I.e if your likely to sell people like to see plenty of sockets in each room, T.V and phone points as well while your making a mess and got the floor boards up.

would also go for a ring up and down
 
With regards no. of sockets i generally take into account what you want to do with the house in a later date.

I.e if your likely to sell people like to see plenty of sockets in each room, T.V and phone points as well while your making a mess and got the floor boards up.

would also go for a ring up and down

Agreed with ring up and down, especially for any future exapnsion.
 
Thanks for the response - I really appreciate your comments. 4 ring ccts it is then.

I will be putting RJ45 data outlets throughout the house whilst I've got the floors up. And have considered the location of sockets with regards to media centre and PC locations.

Also Tiger the comment you made on TV points do you have any information on how I would do this so I can have my sky + viewable throughout the house (albeit the same channel)?
 
the way i wire digital and sky so you can view it in any room you have a point is......

take a ct100 cable from a digital ariel down to your sky+ box and connect into the rf1 output.

then take another ct100 cable from the rf2 out on your sky box to a booster box, where ever you think is best to put it (loft cupboard etc)

then out from the booster in ct100 again to which ever points in the house you want, then from any room with a point you can watch sky or digital tv :)

one point to mention, where ever you decide to mount the booster you will need a socket, so if you plan to install the booster in the loft dont forget the socket in the loft

thats the way i allways do it hope that helps
 
Thanks Bahco - looks like Im going to have to put that socket in the loft after all :)

On a side note has anyone started including HDMi connections? Apologies if I'm going off topic
 
i had to install a lcd tv a few months back which had 2 hdmi cables going to it

right git of a job that was, tv was mounted above a fire with no cables showing, looked good in the end but was a right git to do
 
HDMI is quite a different story.

High def can be run over cat 6 (i think) but its not always successful.

With dedicated HDMI cables there are limitations on the length before the 'signal' starts to break down.

However, there are some cables on the market now that have, what they call a repeater built in so there is no need to run a booster halfway through the run.

If that makes sense, then you are a better man than i:D
 
Last edited by a moderator:
HDMI is quite a different story.

High def can be run over cat 6 (i think) but its not always successful.

With dedicated HDMI cables there are limitations on the length before the 'signal' starts to break down.

However, there are some cables on the market now that have, what they call a repeater built in so there is no need to run a booster halfway through the run.

If that makes sense, then you are a better man than i:D
All makes sense to me I do it all day...

HDMI is a consumer cable for digital video and audio with HDCP protection applied. As for installing screens with no wires showing thats easy stuff. the tricky ones are 5 recessed screens all fed from a central Rack of 3 Sky HD boxes, Blu-ray server, PC, CCTV and few other bits!!!!
 
the way i wire digital and sky so you can view it in any room you have a point is......

take a ct100 cable from a digital ariel down to your sky+ box and connect into the rf1 output.

one point to mention, where ever you decide to mount the booster you will need a socket, so if you plan to install the booster in the loft dont forget the socket in the loft

thats the way i allways do it hope that helps

Sorry to correct you but the Aerial goes to the aerial input, RF1 can then to TV and RF2 goes to distribution AMP, which can need power but not all do this will give you the Sky channel in with analogue TV at the lowest PQ and only mono sound.

When running Cat5 and coax for future expansion you should run 5 cables from Dish/aerial (external) to a central point then run 2 coax and 2 cat5 to every point from central location with 3-4 coax to the main TV location and 3-4 Cat5. Your BT/telephone line incoming should run to central point then out from there.

Attached is a couple of pics of one i was working on today... which shows what it should like when finished
 

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the way i wire digital and sky so you can view it in any room you have a point is......

take a ct100 cable from a digital ariel down to your sky+ box and connect into the rf1 output.

then take another ct100 cable from the rf2 out on your sky box to a booster box, where ever you think is best to put it (loft cupboard etc)

then out from the booster in ct100 again to which ever points in the house you want, then from any room with a point you can watch sky or digital tv :)

one point to mention, where ever you decide to mount the booster you will need a socket, so if you plan to install the booster in the loft dont forget the socket in the loft

thats the way i allways do it hope that helps

If you want Sky+ do you not need two cables to the reciever from the quad LNB and then a 3rd CT100 as the return to the distribution amp or similar so it will pass to other TVs ????
I know guys who run a 4th CT100 also for DVD/video to other TVs. Just a thought.
 
If you want Sky+ do you not need two cables to the reciever from the quad LNB and then a 3rd CT100 as the return to the distribution amp or similar so it will pass to other TVs ????
Possible on 2 cables from hub to TV and 2 from dish to HUB but 3-4 are better.
 
are you qualified , can you test and certify your work or are you getting building control to do it, cos all of this sounds iffy, a sparks wouldnt be asking such questions?
 

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