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Discuss Sockets supplying appliances in kitchens. Do they HAVe to be remotley swithced?? in the Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Gents (and ladies of course).

I have a new ring final to put in for my daughter in a new flat this weekend ( doing it through LABC of course.. £100 for the privilage too!). The existing ring final serves the whole downstairs and overloads when she has everyting plugged in/turned on (new baby so the washer /tumbler is getting hammered too, there's a surprise!). There's 2 spare ways in the CU so Im going to pop in an RCBO and run a ring final for the appliances only.

Can you please settle a "debate" thats going on at work? (were BOTH part P - 17ThEd, but havent done house bashing for AGES! The others arent Part P. (We work in MOD area doing commercial / minor works only, been doing it years , money for old rope ):tongue:

One of the guys says that ANY domestic appliance in a Kitchen MUST be remotely switched (Ie. By a switch, suitably marked and accessable/ above the worktop for example), irrespective of the fact it may be integral or free standing.

I stuck my nose into the green "Electricians guide to the Buidling Regulations" (P 61 5.2.2. Viii) and it says in there "" Socket outlets supplying appliances pushed under a work-surface, Ie. a dishwasher, tumble dryers Etc, should be accessable when the appliance is pulled out. (thats what daughter has !)

It then says (item ix) that Integrated appliances should be fed by an FCU or socket outlet that is readily accessible when the appliance is in normal use.

He now says there has been a recent ammendment and its the same for ALL applainces?



Any thoughts guys?

All help appreciated for this newbie to this forum milarkey?
 
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In general you have a socket mounted at ole level or in cupboard area like I have and a fuse spur at work top hight which controls the sockets for the appliances hope this helps
 
S

Swicade

I believe it's only integrated appliances that have to have isolation above worktop or inside a cupboard (readily accessable).

Personaly i put isolation above worktops for any appliance supply underneath but thats only my personal preference for safety so someone doesn't have to pull out an appliance while it's plugged in (also handy for turning off fridge/freezers that need defrosting the old way).
 
O

Octopus

I think the regs are ambigious.

My preference is to always have isolation for all sockets behind appliances, whether built in or not, above the worktop.

The reasoning is simple - if a fault occurs with the device you can simply switch off the "spur" to the appliance and isolate the appliance.

I've been to many nuisance tripping calls where its in the kitchen, and whether it be the washing machine or fridge freezer, the homeowner is unable to move the applicance to the item off so as to see if its the offending item.
 
1

1shortcircuit

Free standing do not need isolation above the worktop but Murdoch does state a very valid point. By offering isolation if ever an appliance becomes faulty you can easily eliminate it by switching off the isolator.

Many people use fused connection units for this however what you need to consider is if plugging the appliance into a low socket you will need to use a 20A Double Pole Isolator switch above. If a fused connection unit is used above AND the appliance plugged into a socket then you will have no discrimination between the two as they will both be using a 13A fuse:thumbsup
 
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  • #6
Cheers guys. VERY Helpful ! I think its the difference between good working practice and regulations. Ie. Reg's say its okay , but good working practice says fit remote controls.

Thanks again.! (Glad I came here now!)
 
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