Discuss Splitting 25mm meter tails to SWA and 25mm tails in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Grayza

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Hi All,

I need to split the meter tails to supply a second CU which will be at the rear of the house, however the supply to the second CU will need to be in SWA and I can only split the tails at the meter cupboard. Is there a suitable adaptable box or isolator I could use to be able to do this?
Thanks
 
This is the current meter box.
I need to split the tails, 25mm tails to existing CU and SWA run on the outside of the house to a second CU. Not able to run a new supply from the existing house CU, 2nd Pic (they don't want to replace the existing CU, it's recessed in the wall and the coving)
 

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As westward says you need to protect the swa, split the tails via henleys and then into switch fuse and gland the swa into the switch fuse unit
 
Yes, I thought as much using a switched fuse, but I was hoping there might be something I could used to split in one box.
The other side in the living room, with the CU up by the ceiling. Cu would be a nightmare to swap out as well.
 
Why not install another surface meter box by the side of that one, you will need to down fuse the new submain suitably and you could do so in there. Also why must yo run the new sub in swa? Could H07 be used?
 
Also why must yo run the new sub in swa? Could H07 be used?

Some cables with an H07 designation will be suitable and some won't, which one are you suggesting here?
H07 designates that the cable meets a harmonised standard and has a voltage rating of 750V, it is used for singles, tri rate, heavy duty flex and a host of other cables.
 
Some cables with an H07 designation will be suitable and some won't, which one are you suggesting here?
H07 designates that the cable meets a harmonised standard and has a voltage rating of 750V, it is used for singles, tri rate, heavy duty flex and a host of other cables.


The above
 
Suspect he's trying to avoid the requirement for 30mA additional protection, not ideal for a sub main. Second meter box for switch fuse got to be the best plan if there is room on the wall. Can be cut in without disturbing inner skin and decorations, problem solved. Unless of course there are doors, windows, corners or soil pipes in the way!
 
Why is it not ideal and why would you need 30mA protection if cable installation method didnt require it? Why cut this new meter box into the wall when the picture shows existing meter box is surface mounted, would just makes things more dificult!
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Suspect he's trying to avoid the requirement for 30mA additional protection, not ideal for a sub main. Second meter box for switch fuse got to be the best plan if there is room on the wall. Can be cut in without disturbing inner skin and decorations, problem solved. Unless of course there are doors, windows, corners or soil pipes in the way!
...
 
Thanks for all the replies. It's not a surface box and can't cut another one in. The SWA has to run on the outside of the house to supply a new kitchen ring and cooker circuit.
It will be tight in the box to fit a Henley, fused switch and the existing isolator.
 
Thanks for all the replies. It's not a surface box and can't cut another one in. The SWA has to run on the outside of the house to supply a new kitchen ring and cooker circuit.
It will be tight in the box to fit a Henley, fused switch and the existing isolator.

Is there no cooker supply or available socket circuit to extend to the new positions?
 
That is a lot of work for a new ring and a cooker circuit!
It sounds like you have ruled out using the existing consumer unit. Is it full? Does it have a cooker circuit that will become redundant that could be re-used for the new?
As Davesparks said, could you not extend the existing ring, it would be far easier. In fact I cant see how you can fit a henly and metal switched fuse in the existing meter box, so unless you are going to fit a new meter box you cant do it. You may be able to fit a KMF switched fuse in there but then you would not be meeting the regulations.
 
Anyone replaced a CU like this, recessed in the wall and coving (Coving has even stuck on the outside of the CU door, to match in)?
And if you did what board did you use?
 

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Anyone replaced a CU like this, recessed in the wall and coving (Coving has even stuck on the outside of the CU door, to match in)?
And if you did what board did you use?
wow, that is a difficult job you have there! I can see why you were trying to split the tails now.
I think you have to just give the correct options to the customer and if they don't accept any of them then you decline the job. They will get someone else to do it who will not stick to the regs but your morals and PL insurance will be intact.
The options that I can see are:
New meter box by the side of the existing.
Replacement Main consumer unit.
Additional 2 way consumer unit next to main consumer unit that feeds sockets and cooker.

I'm sure you could play around with the gap you have behind the existing consumer unit to fit a modern recessed board into it. Perhaps not easy, but doable, plus you charge accordingly.
 

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