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If you need teaching with how to use cutters for stripping conductors there is little you can be taught

I know people who have found that after they accidentally cut through a live cable it blew a lovely sized hole in the centre of the jaws, that really helped them with their stripping technique;)
 
For most cables up to around 10mm, I just use my side cutters, have done for 30 years never had a problem (except maybe really old cable where the insulation can be very stubborn pulling off) I put my index finger between the cutter handles to create a buffer, make 2 gentle squeezes on the insulation, one on top then one at 90 degrees to my first indent (basically as if the cable was square not round) making sure not to go through to the copper. I keep my index finger between the handles keeping the buffer so as I add pressure during pulling the insulation the jaw blades never come into contact with the conductor, works on both stranded and solid core equally well. I'm very fast with this method (obviously after many years of practice) I find it very efficient and don't have to mess around swapping tools. I have taught this method to many of my apprentices and some experienced sparks over the years.
Obviously for bigger cables and sometimes older cables you are better using a more suitable tool, which I have a selection of.
 
up to 4mm, either the sidecutters and pull cpc, or proprietry strippers like the CK or the Jokari. any thing bigger, a longitudinal cut up the middle with an electricians knife then a snip and pull. finally trimming off the sheath square. hate then big Vee cuts,
 
Pro tip... The pliers should never leave your hand...… use it to cut, strip, crimp and hammer.
Hammer o_O
I would use a pair of CK cable cutters, these are what I have used for over 20 years. View attachment 55287
Are yes, my preferred cutters, and with a bit of practice very good at stripping. I hardly ever use ordinary side cutters (outside of light current work for which I have a small pair) - it just hurts my hands and sometimes my joints will swell up if I'm not careful.
But the shear action on those goes (with a little effort) through 16mm T&E, 25mm singles, and ... 6mm and 8mm copper pipe. On smaller stuff, like a hot knife through butter and I have to wonder why anyone would use side cutters that (in comparison) need so much force to do the same job.
Doing network cabling, they are the only tool I normally use for stripping. Sometimes I use a variation on the CK automatic strippers previously mentioned, but on network cables they often damage the insulation on the cores.
Oh yes, and for cable with "hard" insulation, the shears strip with ease where everything else fails.
 
I use whatever I'm most comfortable with at the time.
Jokari flat wire strippers, side cutters, shears or a knife.
I do better with side cutters and Jokari for smaller t&e, knife or pliers for flex, knife for swa and shears or knife for 10mm and above.

I never got the hang of using a knife for smaller t&e but tbh I never tried very hard.
 
I use whatever I'm most comfortable with at the time.
Jokari flat wire strippers, side cutters, shears or a knife.
I do better with side cutters and Jokari for smaller t&e, knife or pliers for flex, knife for swa and shears or knife for 10mm and above.

I never got the hang of using a knife for smaller t&e but tbh I never tried very hard.
That's why years of experience counts so much.
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Hi guys

Have some trouble here.

So I'm doing terminations at work and using side cutters, usually on 1.5mm or 2.5mm. Seems to happen more with stranded.

I'm squeezing the cutters a bit and turning the side cutters around the wire and often the insulation bags up against the side cutters and just turns with the cutters as I turn them around the cable, without cutting all the way around the insulation, so I can't pull it off easily.

If I go gentler, I have to turn the cutters several times more than my colleagues in order to get the insulation thin enough to pull it off and it just feels like they're rubbing the insulation at all.

Its slowing me down and it's got to the point where I'm concerned it's one of two things.

The cutters I'm using are my first pair and are knipex vde side cutters, the usual short ones.

Either the side cutters I've bought aren't sharp enough or my technique is just wrong. I've heard that recent knipex side cutters aren't what they used to be, people moaning they aren't sharp, I ignored that and bought a pair anyway, but now I'm starting to think they might be too blunt from my own personal experience, but because I've not tried a load of types out, I can't be sure. But I'm also aware I've not got years of experience to back it up and I'm still on my first pair of cutters so I'm probably just inexperienced and I'm sure that's playing a part.

Any tips and any ideas on what you think the problem might be? My colleagues are all using CK side cutters that seem to have a sharper angle on the blades and they do one twist and pull the insulation off with very little force. I'm doing several twists and pulling way harder and not getting it off and sometimes I open the cutters to see they've simply just pressed in to the insulation, gripped it and have twisted it around the conductor. As a side note, I'm a fairly strong lad so this isn't a lack of minerals.

If I'm patient and do more twists and spend more time, I get through the insulation and I can feel the sheath give so I stop there and it pings off fine, but it's taking longer than it should.

If you think it's my technique, I'd appreciate some tips on what you do.

The way I see it, things like this can add up to big time savings as I obviously can't compromise on quality, just trying to be the best I can so helpful answers are appreciated.

Note: I'm not damaging the conductor. All the testing of my circuits have been fine and the sparks checking my work are happy with it, I'm just frustrated with the time and obvious difference in effectiveness when stripping the ends of cables for termination.
Are you saying that you are ringing T&E sheathing with side cutters??
 
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