Discuss Tapping sound behind outlet/wall when using toaster? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

So the outlet was a 15 amp and he put a 20 amp outlet in and the noise is gone. Do you think it was not enough amps? Or arcing?
I don’t know about arching, but it just sounded like it was trying to trip but couldn’t. internally something went bad but stuff don’t last forever. Glad you got it fixed and recording the noise was very helpful. Congratulations my friend
 
I don’t know about arching, but it just sounded like it was trying to trip but couldn’t. internally something went bad but stuff don’t last forever. Glad you got it fixed and recording the noise was very helpful. Congratulations my friend
Omg! The noise is back! He only switch one of them (the one with the black and red buttons) I just took another video
[automerge]1581287623[/automerge]
Omg! The noise is back! He only switch one of them (the one with the black and red buttons) I just took another video
 

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I have no idea why he didn’t. Do you think that will make a difference? So now the one on the left is a 20 amp and the one on the right is a 15 amp and I’m wondering if that’s why it’s doing it still?
Yes it will make a difference the receptacle he changed was not the GFCI receptacle. The one on the right should have been changed. The receptacle he changed was a general use receptacle and it was protected by the GFCI. That’s where you problem is and now you have a GFCI Protected by a GFCI. If it’s rated at 15 amps make both of them 15 amps because the wire is probably rated for 15 amps
 
Yes it will make a difference the receptacle he changed was not the GFCI receptacle. The one on the right should have been changed. The receptacle he changed was a general use receptacle and it was protected by the GFCI. That’s where you problem is and now you have a GFCI Protected by a GFCI. If it’s rated at 15 amps make both of them 15 amps because the wire is probably rated for 15 amps
So should both of them be changed to a 15 amp GFCI receptacle? Or should the other (on the right) be changed to a 20 amp to match the left?
 
It does sound like some kind of electrical relay clicking. What I would do is temporarily remove the receptacles, make the wires safe and see if it stops.
 
It does sound like some kind of electrical relay clicking. What I would do is temporarily remove the receptacles, make the wires safe and see if it stops.
Would he have to get into the wall behind the backsplash? There’s wires in an electrical box behind the plate. Also, I found the box he used in the trash and he replaced it with another 15amp receptacle. What causes an electrical relay clicking? Could it be the receptacles?
 
Would he have to get into the wall behind the backsplash? There’s wires in an electrical box behind the plate. Also, I found the box he used in the trash and he replaced it with another 15amp receptacle. What causes an electrical relay clicking? Could it be the receptacles?
Get them disconnected and see if it resolves it.
 
So should both of them be changed to a 15 amp GFCI receptacle? Or should the other (on the right) be changed to a 20 amp to match the left?
Good morning and yes if the original was 15 amp to start with then they both need to be 15 amp so the wire will match the breaker
 
The small tapping sound will be a borrower practising the drums within the back box supplying the toaster. They will move with the toaster as it keeps them warm which they like.
 
I have an electrical question. We got a kitchen remodel done back in September. The last 2 days I've been hearing a tapping sound behind the outlet that was put in when I use my toaster. I unplugged the toaster and moved it to the other side of the kitchen and it still tapped behind the outlet/wall for about 15 minutes then stopped. This has only been happening for the last 2-3 days. Do you think the toaster is causing it? The guy came by tonight and took the outlet out and said all the wires look fine. What do you think it could be?

Are the cables supplying the socket in conduit? Is it possible these are tapping from wind though an airbrick or something?

Is their a prize on offer for the first person to solve this?
 
Should the Refrigerator be on a 20 amp receptacle?
Are the cables supplying the socket in conduit? Is it possible these are tapping from wind though an airbrick or something?

Is their a prize on offer for the first person to solve this?
Good morning and yes if the original was 15 amp to start with then they both need to be 15 amp so the wire will match the breaker
Are the cables supplying the socket in conduit? Is it possible these are tapping from wind though an airbrick or something?

Is their a prize on offer for the first person to solve this?
I liked that on who solves this problem wins a prize ? ARA yes the refrigerator needs to be a dedicated circuit 20 amp. Did you change your GFCI receptacle the one that was on the right side in your picture, I still believe that the GFCI Is damaged internally and that noise you are hearing is it trying to trip but something is not letting it do it’s job
 
I liked that on who solves this problem wins a prize ? ARA yes the refrigerator needs to be a dedicated circuit 20 amp. Did you change your GFCI receptacle the one that was on the right side in your picture, I still believe that the GFCI Is damaged internally and that noise you are hearing is it trying to trip but something is not letting it do it’s job
I noticed that he has the refrigerator on a 15amp receptacle. He is coming later to change that other GFCI tonight. I know he made this outlet from wires that also feed the refrigerator he said. Not sure if that has anything to do with the noise?
 

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