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I'm sure you all do this anyway but if fitting a shower pull switch [other than Crabtree] keep your cable inner cores as short as you can certainly shorter than the depth of the mounting box then when connected ease the cables back up into the void above and the switch will go up to the box without having to wrestle with it, especially relevant with 10mm cable.
 
I'm sure you all do this anyway but if fitting a shower pull switch [other than Crabtree] keep your cable inner cores as short as you can certainly shorter than the depth of the mounting box then when connected ease the cables back up into the void above and the switch will go up to the box without having to wrestle with it, especially relevant with 10mm cable.
I tried explaining this to one of my apprentice lads. He just didn't get it at all, after half a dozen attempts he gave up and threw a tantrum. I just calmly took over the job and finished it right in front of him in less than a couple of minutes. He calmed down and had his tail between his legs for the rest of the day. :)
 
I'm sure you all do this anyway but if fitting a shower pull switch [other than Crabtree] keep your cable inner cores as short as you can certainly shorter than the depth of the mounting box then when connected ease the cables back up into the void above and the switch will go up to the box without having to wrestle with it, especially relevant with 10mm cable.
This method, for you trainee's out there, also reduces the strain on the connections you would normally experience when folding cables back into a box. This is highly relevant and important because poorly fitted shower switches are notorious for having loose connections, thus increasing risk of arching, failure or fire.
 
Thread reopened at Tels request.
Broken back box lug? drill 6mm hole in back of box, directly behind broken lug. then 5.5mm masonry bit into brick/block. insert red rawlplug, then get a pin extender with a faceplate 3.5mm pin in it, screw into rawlplug till tight ( sometimes a bit of supergue on the thread may be advantageous) then with pliers on the hex. of the extender, remove 3.5mm pin. ready to fix faceplate and looks better than a thin woodscrew.

edit: and thanks to westie for re-opening this old thread.
 
Just to clarify @telectrix....you forgot ya bending spring but took a hairdryer?.....:tearsofjoy:

Ps. Nice tip though it’s stuff like that that can only come from experience
I always carry a chef's butane torch for heatshrink. good for pvc tube as long as don't get too close.
 
not got 3 hands for light fixture? simple tip is use a cable tie to support the fitting while you connect up. depending on the space available the tie can be cut off or better , left there for future use, if the fitting ever needs to be dropped for painting ceiling.

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