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Hello all,

I wanted to know the best approach of connecting to a Garage CU.

Currently planning a small wiring project that i want to do in a few months time, when cash and time allows.
My plan is to do the work myself and go through the proper channels of notifying the work to the local council so i am building a plan of what i am doing and what kit to buy.

The plan is to run an SWA from the house(own supply) to the garage/ workshop.
My first question is with regards to the termination of the SWA where it meets the garage/ workshop.
The SWA will be the supply to a garage Consumer unit but my question is do i terminate the SWA in a Wiska box on the outside and then run a TE from the junction box(wiska) to the supply on the CU, which will be on the opposite side of the wall? or do I terminate the SWA on the Wiska box but strip the cable such that i feed the cable direct through the garage wall and into the CU?

I ask as trying to feed the chunky SWA through the wall and direct to the CU will be untidy and id like the supply to feed the CU from direct from the outside into the back of the CU.

I hope i am making sense.

Thanks all

John
 
You could run the swa into the garage,bury it in a chase in the wall,terminate the swa into a metal back box leaving longish ends to take them direct into the consumer unit fitted over that back box
 
Hello all,

I wanted to know the best approach of connecting to a Garage CU.

Currently planning a small wiring project that i want to do in a few months time, when cash and time allows.
My plan is to do the work myself and go through the proper channels of notifying the work to the local council so i am building a plan of what i am doing and what kit to buy.

The plan is to run an SWA from the house(own supply) to the garage/ workshop.
My first question is with regards to the termination of the SWA where it meets the garage/ workshop.
The SWA will be the supply to a garage Consumer unit but my question is do i terminate the SWA in a Wiska box on the outside and then run a TE from the junction box(wiska) to the supply on the CU, which will be on the opposite side of the wall? or do I terminate the SWA on the Wiska box but strip the cable such that i feed the cable direct through the garage wall and into the CU?

I ask as trying to feed the chunky SWA through the wall and direct to the CU will be untidy and id like the supply to feed the CU from direct from the outside into the back of the CU.

I hope i am making sense.

Thanks all

John

Yes, you can do either of those that you mention. Go for a 3 core SWA so you have a core as CPC and ensure to earth the armour, preferably from supply end.
 
I do not want to be rude are you a spark ,and could you call back tommorow has im going to bed .

No i am not a spark, and sure get some sleep, it is busy saving us all from Zorg!

You could run the swa into the garage,bury it in a chase in the wall,terminate the swa into a metal back box leaving longish ends to take them direct into the consumer unit fitted over that back box

The garage is timber, sorry forgot to say.

Is the CU metal?
What size SWA?

Metal CU, 2.5MM T/E

Have you found out the cost of notification to LBC?

No but i assume you are going to say its cheaper to get a spark in?

Yes, you can do either of those that you mention. Go for a 3 core SWA so you have a core as CPC and ensure to earth the armour, preferably from supply end.

Thank you, i believe i have seen this being done using a pirahna nut within the enclosure/Wiska box.
 
Unless you are intending to break the law you will need to notify your work to LABC to comply with part P. Part P also requires that all work complies with Bs7671. It is clear from your posts that your electrical experience is limited, think very carefully whether you are capable of carrying out the work in compliance with part P, and whether the actual cost of doing it yourself will be greater than getting an approved contractor to carry out the work along with notification/certification.
 
Unless you are intending to break the law you will need to notify your work to LABC to comply with part P. Part P also requires that all work complies with Bs7671. It is clear from your posts that your electrical experience is limited, think very carefully whether you are capable of carrying out the work in compliance with part P, and whether the actual cost of doing it yourself will be greater than getting an approved contractor to carry out the work along with notification/certification.

Thanks for your reply. I did state that i am in the planning phase and will be notifying the authorities.

I respect electric and electricians a lot. Although from my posts i am showing a potential lack of knowledge in this area. It would be wrong to assume i am not capable given the right support and knowledge.

I have wired a radial circuit of sockets with spurs to outdoor IP sockets and FCU lights before and was told the work was fine(electrician).
The only addition section here is the garage CU and the SWA feeding it. And it seems doable so far.

Like i said, im planning . Why? well i am interested in this area. I enrolled to become a spark 2 years ago(and im 40 now!) but the course didnt get the numbers. It was a night course.
Another reason is, with the greatest respect to you electricians on here, round where i live there is a real problem getting a decent tradesman of any kind. Its a case of the minority ruin the reputation of the many.
One other point. It may sound mad or sound like i am rich(i am not i assure you) but i dont mind spending money to learn stuff. If i cant become a certified spark, is there really that much of an issue if i learn it anyway?no so long as a dont break the law.

Thanks
 
Most DIYers haven’t got a clue what part pee is let alone booking the job in with building controller

Bacon to the OP , 2.5 swa is easily manipulated through a wall and formed to go directly up to a position. So I would take directly to my consumer unit position

I personally don’t like cAbles being unnecessarily cut and joined..
 
Most DIYers haven’t got a clue what part pee is let alone booking the job in with building controller

Bacon to the OP , 2.5 swa is easily manipulated through a wall and formed to go directly up to a position. So I would take directly to my consumer unit position

I personally don’t like cAbles being unnecessarily cut and joined..

Fair point re the DIYers. i Like to thinl i am not in that category but i suppose i would wouldn't I!

Thank you for answering the actual question asked.

Given its a timber wall i guess a slight diagonal hole would encourage less "kink" on the entry and exit either side of the wall. I just wanted it to look as neat and tidy as possible.
 
That earthing arrangement do you have?
How long is the SWA run?
How will the SWA be routed?
What are you planning to use in the shed?
Does anything need bonding in the shed?

Would love to see how much LABC are going to charge you for this. Please let us know.
I'm presuming you know you still need this circuit tested by an electrician and LABC will want all relevant paperwork.
May be a good idea to see if it is cheaper to go through an electrician as you need one anyhow. You could have a word with them and say that you will do all the donkey work, therefor saving some money.
 
No but i assume you are going to say its cheaper to get a spark in?

It something to consider. My LBC charges £400 + vat, to test & inspect installation. You could try third party inspection, but that service is not cheap either.

I was registered with a scheme, not no more. I haven’t the 18th, so I doubt if I could convince my LBC of my current competency. If I was installing new circuits/CU etc, I might consider getting a registered spark to do. Might be cheaper.
 
Third party verification is one option , but I have heard prices can vary dramatically..
If you have already nearly finished the job then third party is probably your best bet. At this point building controller probably won’t work.
Or you could just do the job and not bother with any of the red tape :rolleyes:
 

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