Discuss Termination of SWA into new style flush Consumer Units in the Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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As long as one gland is readily accessible at the source end and the armour is not relied upon for the cpc it does not really matter if one is no longer accessible as it serves one purpose, connection of the cable. Verifying its integrity down the line is not an issue.

Would you still be happy with it if you had to make the gland off in an metal adaptable box so as to provide mechanical protection as you to pass the cores from the SWA through the irregular shaped KO on the flush CU? (see back off envelope sketch below - couldn’t find a smoke packet :) )

Obviously the adaptable box wouldn’t be accessable once the plaster board had been put on.

Termination of SWA into new style flush Consumer Units FA7DE2F4-416F-4CE4-81FC-9D838928640E - EletriciansForums.net
 
That would be okay but if there was space I would fit the box to the back, lid removed and use the four fixing to secure it.
 
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That would be okay but if there was space I would fit the box to the back, lid removed and use the four fixingsvto secure it.

Thanks. I agree if there is space bolt on the back that would be great. I was thinking about bolting to the bottom or top back edge (couldn’t bolt towards the front due to the insert frame) if mounting like a service intake type arrangement in my pic.
 
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I’d just somehow gland swa into side of CU, surely that’s achievable somehow?

They provide a KO either side seemingly for that but when you look at install instructions and vid they show their ideal mounting position with the CU sat firmly against the studs in either side. So potential you are removing a lot of material to allow the gland to pass through a stud which might well need aditional bracing if installed in a typical stud wall. I just can’t understand why they haven’t seemd to consider the regs more fully when designing this product - but I have probably missed something obvious.
 
It certainly could be worth a try. Worst case it doesn’t work and you end up having to go back to using an adaptable box.
I understand the reason for the post. Alot of CUs need drilling out, and alot come with square Knockouts etc. But like spin says if your careful your usually find its not a problem.

If your that worried ( and this is going to be a flush CU) how about fixing circular galvanized conduit box lid (with a couple of m6 nuts and bolts) to the bottom of the hager CU and drilling through both this and the CU, it should help stop the weld breaking on the KO.
 
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I just can’t understand why they haven’t seemd to consider the regs more fully when designing this product - but I have probably missed something obvious.

They probably haven't considered SWA being glanded into a flush CU because it is an unusual method if installation. These boards are intended for domestic use so will be designed on the basis of T&E being used.
 
They probably haven't considered SWA being glanded into a flush CU because it is an unusual method if installation. These boards are intended for domestic use so will be designed on the basis of T&E being used.

I get what you are saying and that perhaps it is an unusual choice from the norm but with the likelihood that these boards are going to be insulated some distance from the supply point and therefore the tails are likely to be buried in the fabric of the building for some or most of that journey the options seem somewhat limited.


As I said in an earlier post it was this article that got me considering the issue in more depth How To Install Meter Tails To Consumer Units - https://professional-electrician.com/technical/tales-of-the-unexpected/ and then questioning the design of these types of CU.


And whilst
You could just do what all the other new build lads do and just stuff the swa through the back of the board with no gland or anything. Seems to be the current standard.
might be tongue in cheek to a certain extent it is also sadly true! I know from reading a lot of the post on this forum that pretty well everyone that posts here on a regular basis wants to do the right thing rather than shall we say the fashionable thing ;)


Thanks to everyone that has replied though it has been really interesting having everyone’s input in mulling this over :)
 
Yes my comment was very firmly tongue in cheek, yes it is how a lot of them are installed, and no it very much wasn't a serious suggestion
:p:D
 
Would you still be happy with it if you had to make the gland off in an metal adaptable box so as to provide mechanical protection as you to pass the cores from the SWA through the irregular shaped KO on the flush CU? (see back off envelope sketch below - couldn’t find a smoke packet :) )

Obviously the adaptable box wouldn’t be accessable once the plaster board had been put on.

I see the predicament now. I'd go with your idea, terminate the swa into suitable depth metal adaptable box. In addition, add a bush & lock ring on other side of AB, then offer & connect to underside of CU through knockout, & M6 nuts and bolts. Would add a Piranha nut or earth tags (& fly lead), to ensure the amour is earthed this end.

Edit what size gland will it be and depth of void?
 
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I see the predicament now. I'd go with your idea, terminate the swa into suitable depth metal adaptable box. In addition, add a bush & lock ring on other side of AB, then offer & connect to underside of CU through knockout, & M6 nuts and bolts. Would add a Piranha nut or earth tags (& fly lead), to ensure the amour is earthed this end.

Edit what size gland will it be and depth of void?

25mm gland as it would be fed via a 3 core 25mm2 SWA
 
All sounds like a lot of unnecessary work.
I’d just drill a hole in the CU and stuff the gland in.
Might need to cat the other section about to miss the gland lock nut.
 
I've had the same issue many times with flats. Have a look at the Wylex flush board, I recall I used a knockout, or easily found room to drill a hole. Simples...
 
I recently fitted a Hager Design 50 board here, I used 32mm steel conduit to provide protection to the 25mm tails where they were concealed at a depth of less than 50mm. The conduit was fitted to the round side entry hole, a right PITA as the enclosures are rather flimsy. Far too much of a palaver to do in a customers house on a board change, but would be easy for a new build.
 
I recently fitted a Hager Design 50 board here, I used 32mm steel conduit to provide protection to the 25mm tails where they were concealed at a depth of less than 50mm. The conduit was fitted to the round side entry hole, a right PITA as the enclosures are rather flimsy. Far too much of a palaver to do in a customers house on a board change, but would be easy for a new build.
How do you earth the conduit, leaving the earth connection accessible for inspection and testing?
Edit you installed a Hager design 50,I should learn to read
 

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