Discuss Testing/fault finding on night storage heaters in the Industrial Electrician Talk area at ElectriciansForums.net

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polo1

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Hi all,
new to the forum - be kind.

I've no real experience in fault finding and or testing night storage heaters, but will soon have to start this kind of work. I don't mind asking questions, but would like to start of with a reasonable foundation of information.

Can anyone offer a tried and tested procedure for testing and fault finding on nsh, typical/not so typical problems etc.

Thanx in advance and hope you are al having a burst pipe free Crimbo!
 
Welcome along.

The biggest stumbling block, is obviously the lack of power (unless you're there in the small hours or it's an E10 system).

Essentialy there isn't a lot to go wrong with them, thermostat, thermal link, elements, or burnt out isolation switches are the main issues we find. All you'll need is a good low resistance ohmmeter and an insulation resistance tester for checking the elements.

Obviously if there is power available it makes fault finding a lot easier as you just test to see how far the voltage goes and where it stops is usually the problem.
 
Thanx Lenny. I almost didn't want to mention the lack of power during normal working hours (or the fact that you have to be careful of a daytime boost)! On that point, do you typically rely on dead tests or do you rig up a temp supply? I'm familiar with the components of a nsh, but that's why I wondered if there was a "good practice" order for testing the components you mention.
 
Check input stat works, then safety cut out using continuity.
Check continuity of elements.
Check continuity of fuse/mcb.
Check continuity of wall switch.
Check insulation resistance of circuit.
Finally make up a lead about 5m long from 2.5mm flex and a rcd plug, remove the connections at the heater and replace with your lead and plug in to socket. Then use a clamp meter to tell what current heater is pulling.
 
Check input stat works, then safety cut out using continuity.
Check continuity of elements.
Check continuity of fuse/mcb.
Check continuity of wall switch.
Check insulation resistance of circuit.
Finally make up a lead about 5m long from 2.5mm flex and a rcd plug, remove the connections at the heater and replace with your lead and plug in to socket. Then use a clamp meter to tell what current heater is pulling.

Yep would agree with the above all good stuff
I would also add that when you have to reset the high temp cut out always ask the customer if they have placed clothes on the unit as this is the main culprit and if not and it trips again you will have to replace it and it can sometimes come in the form of a combined control / hight temp cut out module
 
you always have to allow for the idiots that plonk wet washing on a heater that is clearly labelled " do not cover". apart from that, nothing else useful i can add to previous posts.
 
Thanx all for taking the time to respond. This is all good stuff and fits well with my own (limited) understanding of nsh. It's not rocket science, but it's good to get the views of those with more experience.

All the best for 2011.
 
Hi all,
new to the forum - be kind.

I've no real experience in fault finding and or testing night storage heaters, but will soon have to start this kind of work. I don't mind asking questions, but would like to start of with a reasonable foundation of information.

Can anyone offer a tried and tested procedure for testing and fault finding on nsh, typical/not so typical problems etc.

Thanx in advance and hope you are al having a burst pipe free Crimbo!

Just one more rather important point, please remember that many older heaters either contained asbestos or had an asbestos board between the heater and the wall, print off the list below and keep it in your van:

storage heaters containing asbestos
 

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