Testing Feed and Load - 45A oven switch

[MikeDavidson1975]

Hi. I got a new oven the other day and it was working fine. Last night, I swapped out the 45A wall switch for a brushed brass type one. The neon light lit up, the clock on the oven came on, job done. However, today I went to grill cheese on toast and the grill only got moderately warm. Its also the first time I have used the grill. I am thinking that it may be related to the 45A switch and want to check the wiring. The problem is that I cant tell which is the feed and which is the load as they both look the same. My theory is that, if I turn off the oven on the switch box, then wire what I think is the feed in, without connecting the other cable, if im right, the neon light should light up? Or does it only light up when ON position, or does the full connection to the oven need to be in place? And if i'm wrong, I now have a disconnected cable that is live 230v after flicking the breaker switch which definately isnt wise. Can anyone advise?

I should also add that the oven is a Hotpoint SI4 and the switch that I bought is 45A - I cannot find anything to tell me if this is correct or doesnt matter - this is on a website that I just found:

INSTALLATION

• Minimum distance required: 20 mm to the sides
• Electrical installation: This product includes a plug and can be connected to a 13 Amp socket.
• Power supply: 13 Amp plug fitted

and this is the local isolator that I installed:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Knightsbridge-FPAV8332NBB-Plate-Switch-Neon-Brushed/dp/B00V6UOFP4/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1VOFA0W1MBK1G&keywords=knightsbridge%2Bfp8332nbb&qid=1650548603&sprefix=knightsbridge%2Bfp8332nbb%2Caps%2C54&sr=8-1&th=1

Update: I turned off the isolator switch and the clock on the oven turned off. I don't know if that means that I have the wiring correct or only that it has broken the circuit though

 

[littlespark]

The neon should only light up when the switch is on. If its on when the switch is off, you have the feed and load mixed up.

Ive had a look at the specs of the oven, and if its supplied with a 13A plug, then thats fine. It doesnt matter if the isolator for it is 45A, the most the oven can take is 13A

Is the grill a half and half? ie can you turn on just half the grill or the entire width of the grill? maybe you had toast under the 'cold' side??

The elements of a new oven usually need the coating burned off first before use... which means running it for a while, and it may get a little smoky and smelly while this is being done.
Other than that, it could be a new oven with a fault. Keep trying, and if it continues, then get back to where you bought it from and replacement under warranty

 

[pirate]

Never saw a switch like that where the feed and load weren't clearly identified. A continuity test across the terminals would easily confirm.
If it has a 13A plug on it...well, it's a simple fix.

 

[David Prosser]

Never saw a switch like that where the feed and load weren't clearly identified. A continuity test across the terminals would easily confirm.
If it has a 13A plug on it...well, it's a simple fix.

I read it as the OP can't identify the cables, not the ports on the switch. No proving unit for safe isolation.

 

[MikeDavidson1975]

The neon should only light up when the switch is on. If its on when the switch is off, you have the feed and load mixed up.

Ive had a look at the specs of the oven, and if its supplied with a 13A plug, then thats fine. It doesnt matter if the isolator for it is 45A, the most the oven can take is 13A

Is the grill a half and half? ie can you turn on just half the grill or the entire width of the grill? maybe you had toast under the 'cold' side??

The elements of a new oven usually need the coating burned off first before use... which means running it for a while, and it may get a little smoky and smelly while this is being done.
Other than that, it could be a new oven with a fault. Keep trying, and if it continues, then get back to where you bought it from and replacement under warranty

The light doesn’t come on when switched off so think the wiring is all ok. Maybe it does just need to burn off. I’ll give that a go. I did an oven preheat to make sure that was working and it was fine so don’t think it is an electrical issue. The installers (delivery guy with minimal experience) cut the 13A plug off and connected to the cable from the socket

 

[littlespark]

he what???

If it comes with a plug, then it shouldn't need cut off... and if it does, then it needs to be connected to a switch fuse to keep the 13A fuse in circuit.

Ok, an oven is classed as a fixed load, so should never go above 13A. But still

The burning off of the coating of the elements shouldnt cause the grill to not heat up. It should still melt cheese... just make it a bit smelly. I think it could be a fault with the grill if it continues to happen

 

[adonis2]

I have noticed when looking for ovens, in the reviews some people are saying the grill keeps going off and apparently it is an eco feature to save energy.
This may or may not be the issue in your case.

 

[MikeDavidson1975]

I have noticed when looking for ovens, in the reviews some people are saying the grill keeps going off and apparently it is an eco feature to save energy.
This may or may not be the issue in your case.

That’s crazy. I’m gonna test it out again today but if it doesn’t make cheese on toast it’s going back