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Discuss Understanding cable zones..... in the Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

happyhippydad

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Cable zones are vertical or horizontal from an accessory.

I was wondering how this is affected by accessories that are not visible? In theory you could have a cable going horizontal from a socket above kitchen worktop and then down to a socket below worktop which is hidden behind the washing machine. Also the same could happen with a cable going from a cooker switch to cooker outlet plate. I realise we usually bring the cable down first from the socket/switch in the 2 above examples but occasionally this may not be possible.

Cheers.
 
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Deleted member 26818

If the accessories cannot be easily seen, then they would not be providing prescribed routes.
If as you mentioned, you are unable to run a cable either vertically or horizontally from a visible accessory, you would have to provide another method (not RCD) of additional protection.
Earthed metallic sheathing, conduit, etc.
 

happyhippydad

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If the accessories cannot be easily seen, then they would not be providing prescribed routes.
If as you mentioned, you are unable to run a cable either vertically or horizontally from a visible accessory, you would have to provide another method (not RCD) of additional protection.
Earthed metallic sheathing, conduit, etc.
This makes perfect sense, but the regs don't actually state 'visible' in relation to the accessory. 522.6.202
I realise this would defeat the object of the cable zones though, although in the 2 above examples it could be argued that the socket behind the WM and the cooker outlet plate behind the cooker are visible, you just have to move the item blocking them?
 
Routing of cables is very subjective

I have seen sparks go at all funny angles and outside zones as it’s ‘just quicker this way’

Hmmm
 

happyhippydad

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Always find this annoying when cabling to external lights.
Yes! It's going to be on an external wall so the wall will be >100mm so you cant use the other side as a zone. Usually best (if the light is fairly high on the wall) to take it from a first floor socket, FCU next to it and drill straight out. Doesn't always work out nice and neatly like that though!
 

telectrix

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Yes! It's going to be on an external wall so the wall will be >100mm so you cant use the other side as a zone. Usually best (if the light is fairly high on the wall) to take it from a first floor socket, FCU next to it and drill straight out. Doesn't always work out nice and neatly like that though!
that's what i usually do for security lights. FCU in bedroom, drill straight out , then black flex to light. on a couple of occasions, I've zigzagged a chase down the mortar and buried the cable ( within the zone/s created by the fitting) for finicky customers.
 
Yes! It's going to be on an external wall so the wall will be >100mm so you cant use the other side as a zone. Usually best (if the light is fairly high on the wall) to take it from a first floor socket, FCU next to it and drill straight out. Doesn't always work out nice and neatly like that though!
Yea..seems ridiculous,I want my light there,no you can’t...unless...
 
O

Octopus

As long as the cables are within 6 inches (150mm) of the ceiling the safe zone is there to be used........
 

telectrix

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Agree,but most porch lights are a bit lower than that.
customers wanting porch lights is a good argument for N at switches.
 
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