Discuss UPS decommissioning - Best Power S4000 in the Commercial Electrical Advice area at ElectriciansForums.net

G

G1ZmO

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Hi,

I have been asked by my boss to look into whats involved with decommissioning a large UPS system for a customer.

I have an HND Electronics but no high voltage experience.

Can anyone guide me as to what to do? Even if it's to say "No, get someone who's qualified"

The UPS to be deinstalled is a
[FONT=&quot]Best Power S4000 80KVA UPS with 2 full battery cabinets

Thanks

Paul

[/FONT]
 
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S

Shakey

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #2
Gizmo, what makes you think its high voltage?

the 80KvA is only its power rating (its capacity if you like)

assuming its feeding a 230V or 400V circuit, I would isolate the battery packs, isolate from its connection to the existing electrcial AC system so its is electrically isolated and dead, then rip the mother out!
 
G

G1ZmO

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #3
It probably is as easy as that but I've no experience so just wanted some confirmation that I'm not going to have to mess around with any 400 volt live supply.

Sorry, when I said HV I meant 400 volt. I do realise that's not HV :eek:

How is it likely to be connected into the mains? I assume it'll be wired into a breaker or something?

Thanks

Paul
 
R

rumrunner

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #4
Hi Giz
it is likely to be connected to the mains via a local isolator ,the cable feedind the unit will nead to be disconected there, isolate the local isolator and disconect it.
the batterys are likely to be in three banks ,i would remove the negative first which is likely to be common to all of them ,(i think this is the correct precedure) ,then the positives ,then any links between the batterys ,then take it out ,have fun!
atvbitwww
 
S

Shakey

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #5
The batteries are more likely to be in series-parralel banks. Series for voltage and parralel for capacity. So there will be a 'master' negative and a 'master' positive. Discoonect these first, doesnt matter which, thats only on cars where the chassis is negative and disconnecting the positive first will short the battery.

Get rid of the interconnecting links one by one.

The output of the UPS will most likely be connected into an automatic switching panel - just conectors with their sensing coils connected accross opposing circuits.

just find the panel it goes into it and isolate from there
 
G

G1ZmO

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #6
OK seems pretty straightforward.

We've been asked to disconnect and move the unit outside (dont know how far yet) so that a forklift can put it on a lorry.

Has anyone seen one of these UPS units?
Is it likely that 2 people could move it?
 
S

Shakey

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #7
OK seems pretty straightforward.

We've been asked to disconnect and move the unit outside (dont know how far yet) so that a forklift can put it on a lorry.

Has anyone seen one of these UPS units?
Is it likely that 2 people could move it?
An 80KVa unit? thats two guys with BIG kahunas to shift that. Think of a wardrobe filled with metal, and your on the right track!

Seriously, to move that outside your probably gonna want it on rollers
 
B

Bane

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #8
An 80KVa unit? thats two guys with BIG kahunas to shift that. Think of a wardrobe filled with metal, and your on the right track!

Seriously, to move that outside your probably gonna want it on rollers or else speak to Bane

Yep, I could lift that...
 
S

Shakey

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #9
Yep, I could lift that...
Yes Bane, of course you could, you big strong lad:p;)
 
G

G1ZmO

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #10
Could anyone give me a link to pictures / instructions on what the input and output isolators may be like and what tools I should expect to need on this? (and anything else I should look out for bearing in mind I have never worked on 3-phase before)

Thanks
Paul
 

ian.settle1

-
Mentor
Arms
The batteries are more likely to be in series-parralel banks. Series for voltage and parralel for capacity. So there will be a 'master' negative and a 'master' positive. Discoonect these first, doesnt matter which, thats only on cars where the chassis is negative and disconnecting the positive first will short the battery.

Get rid of the interconnecting links one by one.

The output of the UPS will most likely be connected into an automatic switching panel - just conectors with their sensing coils connected accross opposing circuits.

just find the panel it goes into it and isolate from there
Before you switch off the mains isolator you had better

1- switch off the battery charging circuit
2- isolate the batteries
 
G

G1ZmO

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #12
Ian,

With regards to the mains isolator. Do you mean switch off the input isolator or the output?
Assuming there are both that is.

I believe this thing is digitally controlled. Has anyone ever worked on one of these? Anyone know where I could find a manual for it?

I found the manual here btw: http://lit.powerware.com/ll_download.asp?file=403636 B4000-ENG.zip

This is for the Powerware Borri 4000 which is apparently the same unit.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
R

rumrunner

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #13
Switch off every thing you can find giz,test it ,make sure everythings dead ,test between phases ,phase to earth and phase to neutral,this thing may have more than one supply.
and be confident reading manuals will just confuse you ,read the previous posts ,and go and get the job done ,you cant woory about every job you might do in the future,
all the best with it.

It Cant Hurt You If Its Dead.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
W

wayne

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #15
stihl saw and big hammer ,all these questions sugggest you need on site experience;)
 
G

G1ZmO

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #16
Thanks everyone,

I persuaded the boss that it needed done properly and he got a company to remove it. (backroom.co.uk if anyone is interested) Very proffessional and the cost was reasonable.

Cheers
 
U

ups engineer

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #17
Hi There, hopefully you have not been injured by the advise thats been posted by some of the other users,

if you are decommissioning the system I guess the critical load is to be powered down if so Follow these steps:

Dont work alone

open the door of the ups and open the battery switch/breaker this will take the batteries off charge.
if the cabinets are original best power battery cabinets they will have a breaker in each at the bottom knock these off

next back at the UPS open the ups output switch
open the static bypass supply switch
open the rectifer supply switch

unit should power down

next isolate the mains into the unit from the switch board

Check all dead at terminals under the cover under where the switches in the ups module

***********VERY IMPORTANT**********BATTERY VOLTAGE IS AROUND 445VDC ON THESE MACHINES***************

Batteries: if you split the links between the batteries this will disconnect the battery voltage because they are all in series wear electricians gaultlets about 25 quid from RS or arco Batteries are always on!!

Repeat on cabinet 2 until all the battey links are removed,

If you can get a pallet truck and move the UPS out to where ever its being collected dont remove anything out of it unless you have to.

lastly if you can move the batteries with the pallet truck in the cabinet it can be done other wise remove batteries from the cabinets and put them on a pallet.

Heres the good part!! if you get all the stuff outside ring a waste carrier to collect it you will need a waste consignment because Batteries are hazadous waste.

you should get a couple of hundred scrap value for the batts and the transformer in the UPS..

Then go for a pint!!
 

ian.settle1

-
Mentor
Arms
Hi There, hopefully you have not been injured by the advise thats been posted by some of the other users,

if you are decommissioning the system I guess the critical load is to be powered down if so Follow these steps:

Dont work alone

open the door of the ups and open the battery switch/breaker this will take the batteries off charge.
if the cabinets are original best power battery cabinets they will have a breaker in each at the bottom knock these off

next back at the UPS open the ups output switch
open the static bypass supply switch
open the rectifer supply switch

unit should power down

next isolate the mains into the unit from the switch board

Check all dead at terminals under the cover under where the switches in the ups module

***********VERY IMPORTANT**********BATTERY VOLTAGE IS AROUND 445VDC ON THESE MACHINES***************

Batteries: if you split the links between the batteries this will disconnect the battery voltage because they are all in series wear electricians gaultlets about 25 quid from RS or arco Batteries are always on!!

Repeat on cabinet 2 until all the battey links are removed,

If you can get a pallet truck and move the UPS out to where ever its being collected dont remove anything out of it unless you have to.

lastly if you can move the batteries with the pallet truck in the cabinet it can be done other wise remove batteries from the cabinets and put them on a pallet.

Heres the good part!! if you get all the stuff outside ring a waste carrier to collect it you will need a waste consignment because Batteries are hazadous waste.

you should get a couple of hundred scrap value for the batts and the transformer in the UPS..

Then go for a pint!!
Your advise is a tadge late as the initial posting was over 4 years ago
 
P

poppypiesdad

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #19
£500 a ton for batteries at the moment :)
 
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