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kuddoo

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Hello guys,
I live in Europe (240v) and I've recently purchased a Line Interactive AVR 1000VA 600W UPS with in order to protect my new PS5 gaming console and TV. The PS5 (max 200w) and 42" LED TV (max 120W) are the only things connected to the UPS. If a video game is playing on console (to draw more power) and I turn off the circuit breaker for the power outlets in that room, the ups will switch to battery mode and the voltage will fluctuate rapidly between 190V - 280V. The load on the ups is at 40%
If I connect my PC (running a demanding task for more power draw) and monitor to the UPS and turn off the circuit breaker, the voltage is stable at 230v -235v, the load on the ups is at 40%.
I've replaced the UPS with a different model from the same brand with the same specs but better batteries and the problem is the same.

This has been driving me crazy for the past few days and I cannot get my head around it to figure out what is going on. I thought that buying a UPS will solve problems not add to them. I seldomly have power outages in my town so it was more of a safety measure.
Can you guys tell me what is going on? Was I just unlucky to get both UPS to be broken? Is there something else going on with the devices I connected to the UPS ?
 
Hello guys,
I live in Europe (240v) and I've recently purchased a Line Interactive AVR 1000VA 600W UPS with in order to protect my new PS5 gaming console and TV. The PS5 (max 200w) and 42" LED TV (max 120W) are the only things connected to the UPS. If a video game is playing on console (to draw more power) and I turn off the circuit breaker for the power outlets in that room, the ups will switch to battery mode and the voltage will fluctuate rapidly between 190V - 280V. The load on the ups is at 40%
If I connect my PC (running a demanding task for more power draw) and monitor to the UPS and turn off the circuit breaker, the voltage is stable at 230v -235v, the load on the ups is at 40%.
I've replaced the UPS with a different model from the same brand with the same specs but better batteries and the problem is the same.

This has been driving me crazy for the past few days and I cannot get my head around it to figure out what is going on. I thought that buying a UPS will solve problems not add to them. I seldomly have power outages in my town so it was more of a safety measure.
Can you guys tell me what is going on? Was I just unlucky to get both UPS to be broken? Is there something else going on with the devices I connected to the UPS ?
Are you running your UPs in the "on line or off line method"?
 
It sounds like a poorly regulated UPS. The instructions warn against plugging in laser printers, that is a bit of a concern!

If putting more load on it works, then add a stand lamp or similar. Unfortunately I think you will pay a lot more for a better UPS.
So on your opinion I should rather stick to a good brand like APC and let's say model BX700 to fix the voltage fluctuations when on battery? Or do you think that I need a pure sine wave UPS instead of simulated? Because if this is the case I would rather not use a UPS at all since i'm not yet prepared to invest in a pure sine wave ups, especially since power outages and brownouts are very rare here.

WHAT COUNTRY ARE YOU IN
I currently am in Romania.
 
There are typically three types of UPS: on line, off line or interactive. In an On Line the mains chargers a battery and the battery powers and inverter - there is next to no interruption in power output if the UPS switches over to battery mode. In Off Line the mains powers the inverter directly and a mains battery charger maintains the battery - in the event of a power outage the inverter switches over its power supply from mains to battery by a very fast switch - the interruption is brief but there is one. (Sometimes the mains powers the output directly, charges the battery and the battery powers the inverter constantly - but the switch over happens between the mains and the output of the inverter).

Now to the Interactive type. See my attached diagram. The Interactive is simialr to the On line with the addition of a 'mains conditioner box C' between the mains and the battery charger and inverter BCI. The output is generated by the inverter not the mains. The output voltage V is monitored (circuitry in red) and regulation within limits is achieved first by 'raising or lowering' the mains voltage using the circuitry within C. When the regulated voltage output can no longer be achieved using the Conditioner the inverter switches to the battery for its power input. Now the Regulation R will control the BCI to maintain V stable - within limits though. The interactive scheme tends to stay connected to the mains if it can thereby reducing discharging the battery.

The mains has much higher amperage available for short periods than is available the battery. It has a lower source impedance than the battery. And being a much higher voltage than the battery the power required by the load is delivered by a lower current than from the battery, remembering power P is V x I Watts. eg: 360W PS% at 240V ac requires a current of 1.5Amps but in battery mode (assuming a 24V battery) the current is 15Amps.

What perhaps you don't know is that a PS5 consumes power depoending on how much processing it is required to do - its processing rate. If all the PS5 had to do was display a red screen on the VDU the processing rate is very low. During a game you will well know that there is a very high rate of change of imagery and the computing to calculate the games logic and physics and thence generate the imagery. A PS5 power consumption of say 360W is a time average amount - in reality there are times when the PS5 is consuming much much more power - you will notice this as the fans turn on/speed up to keep the computer processor and memory cool.

I think then without going on too much that the problem is that the UPS you have bought has inadequate peak power handling capability to suit the PS5. For reliable functioning the VA will need to be much higher than 1000. Look at the prices for the maximum VA UPS you can plug in and then send me details of it/them.

Meanwhile do a test.

1. Power the PS5 and VDU from the UPS and the mains but with the PS5 displaying a very simple graphic say a plain screen with nothing showing or a plain colour screen. Connect a voltmeter (safely) to the UPS output.

2. Now unplug the/turn off the mains input. What happens to the output voltage please - is it steady? It maybe slightly lower than when run from the mains.

Items like the PS5 also have a non-linear relationship between the input voltage to them and the current they draw. AS the voltage reduces the current increases over some voltage range and in other ranges the current increased at a slower rate than the rate of increase of voltage and in other regions the current increased at a higher rate than the change of voltage. This V and I relationship can scupper the voltage regulation R is attempting to do.

Anyway, those are my thoughts. :cool: Or something along these lines.....

PS: The VR box is a voltage reference to compare V with.
 

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There are typically three types of UPS: on line, off line or interactive. In an On Line the mains chargers a battery and the battery powers and inverter - there is next to no interruption in power output if the UPS switches over to battery mode. In Off Line the mains powers the inverter directly and a mains battery charger maintains the battery - in the event of a power outage the inverter switches over its power supply from mains to battery by a very fast switch - the interruption is brief but there is one. (Sometimes the mains powers the output directly, charges the battery and the battery powers the inverter constantly - but the switch over happens between the mains and the output of the inverter).

Now to the Interactive type. See my attached diagram. The Interactive is simialr to the On line with the addition of a 'mains conditioner box C' between the mains and the battery charger and inverter BCI. The output is generated by the inverter not the mains. The output voltage V is monitored (circuitry in red) and regulation within limits is achieved first by 'raising or lowering' the mains voltage using the circuitry within C. When the regulated voltage output can no longer be achieved using the Conditioner the inverter switches to the battery for its power input. Now the Regulation R will control the BCI to maintain V stable - within limits though. The interactive scheme tends to stay connected to the mains if it can thereby reducing discharging the battery.

The mains has much higher amperage available for short periods than is available the battery. It has a lower source impedance than the battery. And being a much higher voltage than the battery the power required by the load is delivered by a lower current than from the battery, remembering power P is V x I Watts. eg: 360W PS% at 240V ac requires a current of 1.5Amps but in battery mode (assuming a 24V battery) the current is 15Amps.

What perhaps you don't know is that a PS5 consumes power depoending on how much processing it is required to do - its processing rate. If all the PS5 had to do was display a red screen on the VDU the processing rate is very low. During a game you will well know that there is a very high rate of change of imagery and the computing to calculate the games logic and physics and thence generate the imagery. A PS5 power consumption of say 360W is a time average amount - in reality there are times when the PS5 is consuming much much more power - you will notice this as the fans turn on/speed up to keep the computer processor and memory cool.

I think then without going on too much that the problem is that the UPS you have bought has inadequate peak power handling capability to suit the PS5. For reliable functioning the VA will need to be much higher than 1000. Look at the prices for the maximum VA UPS you can plug in and then send me details of it/them.

Meanwhile do a test.

1. Power the PS5 and VDU from the UPS and the mains but with the PS5 displaying a very simple graphic say a plain screen with nothing showing or a plain colour screen. Connect a voltmeter (safely) to the UPS output.

2. Now unplug the/turn off the mains input. What happens to the output voltage please - is it steady? It maybe slightly lower than when run from the mains.

Items like the PS5 also have a non-linear relationship between the input voltage to them and the current they draw. AS the voltage reduces the current increases over some voltage range and in other ranges the current increased at a slower rate than the rate of increase of voltage and in other regions the current increased at a higher rate than the change of voltage. This V and I relationship can scupper the voltage regulation R is attempting to do.

Anyway, those are my thoughts. :cool: Or something along these lines.....

PS: The VR box is a voltage reference to compare V with.
Thank you for your time and thorough answer. It is informative and I really appreciate it. Although I'm no electrical engineer, I believe I overall understand what you said.
I've run a few tests and these are the results:
PS5 in menu (idle) - on battery - voltage is rather stable at 230v-235v
PS5 in games (full load) - on battery - voltage fluctuates rapidly between 180-290v
PS5 in games or in menu - on mains - voltage is a solid 232v
Powerful desktop PC in games or 3D rendering (peaks at 350w) - on battery - voltage is rather stable at 232v-236v

PS5 power-supply rated at 350W and 220-250v. Peak watts dawn from the power outlet was at 200W.

My multimeter is broken so the voltages were measured via the UPS front display and with a laptop (through software) connected to the USB port of the UPS. Wattage was measured using a smart plug that measures the energy output instantly and over time.

Sorry if my English sucks; i'm not a native speaker.
 
There are typically three types of UPS: on line, off line or interactive. In an On Line the mains chargers a battery and the battery powers and inverter - there is next to no interruption in power output if the UPS switches over to battery mode. In Off Line the mains powers the inverter directly and a mains battery charger maintains the battery - in the event of a power outage the inverter switches over its power supply from mains to battery by a very fast switch - the interruption is brief but there is one. (Sometimes the mains powers the output directly, charges the battery and the battery powers the inverter constantly - but the switch over happens between the mains and the output of the inverter).

Now to the Interactive type. See my attached diagram. The Interactive is simialr to the On line with the addition of a 'mains conditioner box C' between the mains and the battery charger and inverter BCI. The output is generated by the inverter not the mains. The output voltage V is monitored (circuitry in red) and regulation within limits is achieved first by 'raising or lowering' the mains voltage using the circuitry within C. When the regulated voltage output can no longer be achieved using the Conditioner the inverter switches to the battery for its power input. Now the Regulation R will control the BCI to maintain V stable - within limits though. The interactive scheme tends to stay connected to the mains if it can thereby reducing discharging the battery.

The mains has much higher amperage available for short periods than is available the battery. It has a lower source impedance than the battery. And being a much higher voltage than the battery the power required by the load is delivered by a lower current than from the battery, remembering power P is V x I Watts. eg: 360W PS% at 240V ac requires a current of 1.5Amps but in battery mode (assuming a 24V battery) the current is 15Amps.

What perhaps you don't know is that a PS5 consumes power depoending on how much processing it is required to do - its processing rate. If all the PS5 had to do was display a red screen on the VDU the processing rate is very low. During a game you will well know that there is a very high rate of change of imagery and the computing to calculate the games logic and physics and thence generate the imagery. A PS5 power consumption of say 360W is a time average amount - in reality there are times when the PS5 is consuming much much more power - you will notice this as the fans turn on/speed up to keep the computer processor and memory cool.

I think then without going on too much that the problem is that the UPS you have bought has inadequate peak power handling capability to suit the PS5. For reliable functioning the VA will need to be much higher than 1000. Look at the prices for the maximum VA UPS you can plug in and then send me details of it/them.

Meanwhile do a test.

1. Power the PS5 and VDU from the UPS and the mains but with the PS5 displaying a very simple graphic say a plain screen with nothing showing or a plain colour screen. Connect a voltmeter (safely) to the UPS output.

2. Now unplug the/turn off the mains input. What happens to the output voltage please - is it steady? It maybe slightly lower than when run from the mains.

Items like the PS5 also have a non-linear relationship between the input voltage to them and the current they draw. AS the voltage reduces the current increases over some voltage range and in other ranges the current increased at a slower rate than the rate of increase of voltage and in other regions the current increased at a higher rate than the change of voltage. This V and I relationship can scupper the voltage regulation R is attempting to do.

Anyway, those are my thoughts. :cool: Or something along these lines.....

PS: The VR box is a voltage reference to compare V with.

Thank you for your time and thorough answer. It is informative and I really appreciate it. Although I'm no electrical engineer, I believe I overall understand what you said.
I've run a few tests and these are the results:
PS5 in menu (idle) - on battery - voltage is rather stable at 230v-235v
PS5 in games (full load) - on battery - voltage fluctuates rapidly between 180-290v
PS5 in games or in menu - on mains - voltage is a solid 232v
Powerful desktop PC in games or 3D rendering (peaks at 350w) - on battery - voltage is rather stable at 232v-236v

PS5 power-supply rated at 350W and 220-250v. Peak watts dawn from the power outlet was at 200W.

My multimeter is broken so the voltages were measured via the UPS front display and with a laptop (through software) connected to the USB port of the UPS. Wattage was measured using a smart plug that measures the energy output instantly and over time.
 
Your English is fine. The tests results tend to confirm that your line active UPS is unsuited to powering the PS5 as it demands more power to increase its computing rate and memory access.

David Prosser is a knowledgeable fellow and has recommended an alternative make UPS still rated at 1000VA and line interactive type. You might ask him to confirm he has tried it with a PS5; his post implies he has but worth checking first before you consider buying it.

I suppose your current ups may be defective in some way but normally such equipment has some built in test equipment to check its circuitry is functioning correctly. If there is a problem it would report a fault to the display.

I reckon you could sell your current ups and put the money towards a new UPS. If I was you I would join a forum for PS5 gamers and seek others experience of running the ps5 you have on a ups to find out which ones are suitable. You probably are a member already.

Would you mind telling us what you find out and decide to do and whether successful so that others can learn what works and what does not?
 
Thank you David, for your recommendation.

Your English is fine. The tests results tend to confirm that your line active UPS is unsuited to powering the PS5 as it demands more power to increase its computing rate and memory access.

David Prosser is a knowledgeable fellow and has recommended an alternative make UPS still rated at 1000VA and line interactive type. You might ask him to confirm he has tried it with a PS5; his post implies he has but worth checking first before you consider buying it.

I suppose your current ups may be defective in some way but normally such equipment has some built in test equipment to check its circuitry is functioning correctly. If there is a problem it would report a fault to the display.

I reckon you could sell your current ups and put the money towards a new UPS. If I was you I would join a forum for PS5 gamers and seek others experience of running the ps5 you have on a ups to find out which ones are suitable. You probably are a member already.

Would you mind telling us what you find out and decide to do and whether successful so that others can learn what works and what does not?

Thank you marconi, for taking your time to explain these things to me. I have sent the UPS back to the store, as you suggested, and got my money back already. Luckily you have 10 to 30 days here to change your mind about an online product you bought and can return it.
I will ask other Ps5 users what kind of ups are they using and will share here what I learnt and decided to do.
 
I have used APC and they were fine, but not very reliable (at least that last batch of 5kVA units). The older Eaton were better, and now we are trying Riello which seem OK, but the software interface for the management card sucks as badly as the rest (probably more so).

However, all of them have been pretty expensive as they are the on-line sort and quite big.
 
Beware that many kinds of voltage / current / power measurement device can be disrupted by the non-sinusoidal output of a UPS running on battery. I would not trust a plug-in power monitor for this at all without some corroborating evidence from a laboratory instrument. Even a multimeter may give confusing readings when lots of harmonics are present.

The UPS's own voltage indication ought to be suitable for its own output, but that too might be fooled if the power supply of the PS5 demands a particularly distorted current waveform. The high source impedance of the UPS inverter compared to a supply from the grid means that current distortion leads to voltage distortion and possibly incorrect measurement.

My point here is that although there might be a problem with the voltage, there might also be a problem with the voltage readings.
 
I use Rielo UPSs to protect small servers and a dedicated sockets circuit to protect several PCs. You can also expand the battery packs on some of the larger ones. Unfortunately I'm not likely to be able to test out the suitability of this model for a PS5, it runs several PCs happily though.
 

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