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Torque drivers are tosh imo , if you can’t judge a termination by experience and feel then you shouldn’t be working on an electrical installation in the first place
That sounds like the sort of misguided quote you tend to get on Chainsaw threads, "If you don't know how to sharpen a Chainsaw you should not be using one" ? I can rip the end off a 12mm HT bolt with a socket set, so tend to use a torque wrench, but these Torque drivers seem so over the top.
 
Thanks mate, just bought a sds but I think multitool is next up, what sort of things do you use it for?
Everything! Cutting out plasterboard and ply for back boxes. Also use masonary blades for smaller jobs in plaster or softer block work. Cutting floorboards.
 
Would love to know why the battery packs for cordless kit are so expensive?
I think a good multi-tool is essential even if your not a spark.

Battery packs contain 18650 unprotected batteries, which if you buy from a reputable supplier (Samsung, LG, Sony etc) can cost up to £8 per battery. Taking into consideration, design, manufacturing, distribution etc, the likes of dewalt etc still want to turn a healthy profit.
 
18650 LiIo batteries where originated by A123 systems in the USA, but where so successful it was not long before Chinese clones called PO4 became available, the term 18650 seems to have now become a generic term.

Both types require a balance charge unlike standard Nimh or even the old Nicad's, the balance charge can be built into the battery case or in the charger, if you ever look at the pack or charger you will see multiple connections not just one positive or negative this is to facilitate individual cell monitoring to ensure a balance charge is administered.
 
Everything! Cutting out plasterboard and ply for back boxes. Also use masonary blades for smaller jobs in plaster or softer block work. Cutting floorboards.
They are indeed very handy. Take care though! One of my luckiest ever moments I think was cutting out this board with multitool. Rather incredibly I didn't nick any of them or the pipe.
what are some tools that were worth the price tag? 1617268355806 - EletriciansForums.net
 
18650 LiIo batteries where originated by A123 systems in the USA, but where so successful it was not long before Chinese clones called PO4 became available, the term 18650 seems to have now become a generic term.

It is a generic term that makes perfect sense as it is based (roughly) on cell dimensions - 18650 = 18x65mm

Tesla poured quite a bit of money into R&D of cells and concluded that optimum form factor for current lithium technology wasn't far from this size. Their research resulted in the creation of 20700 and 21700 cells and I believe the latter is the cell they use in current production.
 
18650 was the part number that the original manufacture gave their cells (A123 systems), I will have to find my other cells to see the part number on them, but 21700 seems to ring a bell, Tesla did not exist in the time period I am referring too and the original chemistry was Lithium nano Phosphate.
 
18650 was the part number that the original manufacture gave their cells (A123 systems), I will have to find my other cells to see the part number on them, but 21700 seems to ring a bell, Tesla did not exist in the time period I am referring too and the original chemistry was Lithium nano Phosphate.

The part number was designated on the basis of size. 18350, 16340, 18500 and 26500 cells all followed the same pattern.
 
I suppose that's how the Eastern countries have got away with copying the original cells without infringing copy write, will have a look tomorrow and measure some of the original A123 cells.
 
You inspired me to quickly research the subject as I was fairly certain that the first Lithium cells in 18650 form were introduced by a well known manufacturer - I just couldn't remember who.

Turns out the 18650 was introduced by Sony in 1992 and the designation was indeed derived from its physical size.
 
Tools I wouldn't be without?
DeWalt oscillating multi-tool, teamed with Saxton blades
CK wire strippers
Fluke T150 2 pole tester
CK crimping pliers for tiny ferrules
Erbauer rechargeable work light
Noga deburring tool
so many actually...
Basically, anything that works for you in whatever field you operate
 
Very good point, Westy!
So many folks using impact drivers these days, and the bits can shatter...I had a P3 break on me, and the shards missed my eye by 1mm...Doc dug out the remnants and said I was extremely lucky not to lose the sight in my right eye.
Wear gloves and safety specs...it might add 5 minutes to a job, but it might save your sight.
Best advice ever there, and I urge you all to listen to what @westward10 said there.
 
They are indeed very handy. Take care though! One of my luckiest ever moments I think was cutting out this board with multitool. Rather incredibly I didn't nick any of them or the pipe.
View attachment 84079
That’s the think I like about them. If you’re working in a risky area I think you have a bit more control than just ripping through with a saw that could be set at the wrong depth.
 
I think we should all follow @westward10 about protecting your eyes, ears, hands, and the rest of your body depending on what tools you are using and what situation you are in. For example, a simple hard-hat has saved me from some nasty gashes to the head from the nails holding slates on in an attic, etc.

But for the original discussion my most recent best-buy has been an impact driver:

I actually bought the FPP2A2-502X kit with that, a more conventional battery drill, charger, and two 5.0Ah batteries. But it really has been that driver along with the hex-shank drill bits that has been most useful by far.

A word of warning though: even on its minimum setting and making use of the variable-rate trigger it will easily chew up smaller screws, and a moment of carelessness with it set on mid-speed sheared a M6 roofing bolt on some cable tray I was assembling.

But only a complete muppet would use it on electrical terminals? Really?
 
It is a bit noisy, like most impact tools, but more of an irritation than needing ear defenders in most cases. If I were buying something again I think I would go for the hydraulic version they do and just get it as a kit, such as:
 
The Dewalt Multi Tool 'Kit' (DCS355P1) comes with depth stop, duct extractor adaptor etc .... but most people just buy the skeleton tool and miss out on the depth stop which is probably available as optional extra!
 

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