Discuss wiring 2 outside P.I.R lights in the Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations area at ElectriciansForums.net

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-matt

hi there, im going to be installing some P.I.R lights outside my dad's house, and ive never done anything with these before, so if i could have some help with the wiring, that would be great.

its got to work like this: 2 sensors, 2 lights, both lights need to come on, when either sensor is triggered.

here is a diagram of the layout:

wiring 2 outside P.I.R lights {filename} | ElectriciansForums.net


and this is my guess on how to wire it:
wiring 2 outside P.I.R lights {filename} | ElectriciansForums.net


and obviously id earth everything.

is this correct?

any help on this would be great.

thanks,
matt
 
That will work, however I would put a SFCU on the supply for Isolation because PIR's do go wrong. I like your pics too.

Andy
 
thanks, i thought it looked about right. and ill be fitting a fused switch by the door, so it can be switched off if needed.
 
this is what i am looking to do too,with 3 lights but i want to manually overide just one of the lights without affecting the others any ideas?
 
Electric center have a PIR that also has a remote control that might work
 
this is what i am looking to do too,with 3 lights but i want to manually overide just one of the lights without affecting the others any ideas?


Ithink you will have a problem as the live is common to them all. One way is to have a changover relay operated by the manual override to isolate the live to the other lights.
 
Hello Andy - I have an outdoors floodlight with its own PIR. However, I wish to wire it up to a separate PIR without having to re-site the floodlight. Any ideas on how I do this. This is how the floodlight is currently wired:

In from the mains switched supply:
L = 2 red (live) - one of these feeds a second floodlight with own PIR
L1 = None
E = 1 Yellow
N = 2 Black (neutral) - one of these feeds another floodlight with own PIR

Out to PIR and light:
L = 1 Brown (live)
L1 = 2 White (switched live?)
E = Yellow/Green
N = 1 Blue (neutral), 1 White

I don't want to affect the operation of the second floodlight. Will I need 3C+E to do this or will I be able to use 2C+E? Any advice you can give will be gratefully received...
 
So do you want the floodlight to be operated by its own PIR and the new PIR?

You would need 2c+E using one of the cores to get the power from L (from PIR/light) and another core from new PIR to return the power to L1 (of the present PIR/light). Not sure about 3 conductors in the same terminals of these lights though, bit of a squeeze, someone more experienced will know!

I've been working all night so brains a bit frazzled but I cant work out why you only have one conductor in the incoming earth if it is feeding a seperate light. Is the other light earthed?

Ps... I'll be amazed if 'Andy' replies :wink5:
 
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So do you want the floodlight to be operated by its own PIR and the new PIR?

You would need 2c+E using one of the cores to get the power from L (from PIR/light) and another core from new PIR to return the power to L1 (of the present PIR/light). Not sure about 3 conductors in the same terminals of these lights though, bit of a squeeze, someone more experienced will know!

I've been working all night so brains a bit frazzled but I cant work out why you only have one conductor in the incoming earth if it is feeding a seperate light. Is the other light earthed?

Ps... I'll be amazed if 'Andy' replies :wink5:

Thanks for responding. You're right, there are 2 incoming Earths. I want to run the floodlight off the separate PIR and by-pass the floodlight's own PIR completely, so what would I have to do and what would the wiring configuration look like, i.e. what would I have running into L, L1, E and N in both terminal blocks and would I have to remove or 'cut' any of the existing PIR-to-floodlight wiring to disable the PIR?

I'm easily confused so could you put it as simply as possible for me? Many thanks again...
 
Still in the middle of nights so hope this is right!

View attachment pdf PIR.pdf

Do have a think about how your going to get 3 cables into the existing light, might be easy, might not, but you need to make sure it still has a watertight seal.


I don’t know how big the terminal block is in the existing light so only you can tell if it can fit 3 conductors.

The blue conductor attached between L’ of both new PIR and old needs to have some brown sleeving on it to show switched live.

You need to remove the brown live wire leading from L into existing light (this will stop old PIR from working). Don’t just cut it as this will leave an exposed live wire! At the very least unscrew it from the terminal and then cut off as much as you can.

Most importantly Please don’t do this if you are unsure about anything just get in an electrician. I’m not exactly sure where it lies within the building regulations, I guess you are just replacing a PIR but you are also adding new cabling, hopefully someone else can answer that one?

ISOLATE BEFORE DOING ANYTHING!!

Have you done electrical work before, are you studying?

ps.. just had another thought, if 3 conductors in the terminal is too much you could put one of them in the opposite end where you have just removed the brown conductor.
 
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take a look at GJD security lights. each PIR and each light wire back to a central controller. the pirs are wired at 12V in alarm cable and any pir activates all lights.
 
Still in the middle of nights so hope this is right!

View attachment 17071

Do have a think about how your going to get 3 cables into the existing light, might be easy, might not, but you need to make sure it still has a watertight seal.


I don’t know how big the terminal block is in the existing light so only you can tell if it can fit 3 conductors.

The blue conductor attached between L’ of both new PIR and old needs to have some brown sleeving on it to show switched live.

You need to remove the brown live wire leading from L into existing light (this will stop old PIR from working). Don’t just cut it as this will leave an exposed live wire! At the very least unscrew it from the terminal and then cut off as much as you can.

Most importantly Please don’t do this if you are unsure about anything just get in an electrician. I’m not exactly sure where it lies within the building regulations, I guess you are just replacing a PIR but you are also adding new cabling, hopefully someone else can answer that one?

ISOLATE BEFORE DOING ANYTHING!!

Have you done electrical work before, are you studying?

ps.. just had another thought, if 3 conductors in the terminal is too much you could put one of them in the opposite end where you have just removed the brown conductor.

Thanks again. I have done basic wiring before. In fact, I installed this very light myself originally, as with the other 5 around the house, annex and garages. The house lights come off a light pull switch in an upstairs bathroom via a junction box, the annex light off the back of a socket with a FCU and the garage one comes off an internal wall switch. It's just this one tha is confusing me!

Just one point - your diagram doesn't show a Neutral connection between old and new PIR. Is this correct? Note from my earlier post that the old PIR is pre-wired as follows:

L = 1 Brown
L1 = 2 White
E = Yellow/Green
N = 1 Blue, 1 White

What do the 2 white wires in L1 and the two wires in N feed? I know they must go to the light or PIR or one is possibly looped...

Read more: http://www.electriciansforums.net/e...ing-2-outside-p-i-r-lights.html#ixzz2JxBorY1U
 
Come on WRC, let us know how you got on? Took me half the night to draw that work of art!!!
 

Reply to wiring 2 outside P.I.R lights in the Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations area at ElectriciansForums.net

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