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Steve93

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Currently On a new build and I wired the ring to a switch bank where I’m gonna have 4 switches switching those hood,fridge freezer,dishwasher and washing machine. From this I have ran a leg down to each socket behind the appliances. Now the kitchen fitter is kicking off that they shouldn’t be there because the appliance won’t go back fully? How does everyone else wire up kitchens in regards to appliances?
 
It’s usually only dishwashers that will stick out.
Remedies have been mentioned on other threads you can search for but the two get out of jails are adjacent cupboard as mentioned by Murdoch or flex outlet if it’s coming from a switched fuse but on a new build that may not be accepted.
Adjacent cupboard is the way to keep the KF happy AND we ALL want to do that don’t we?
 
Yeah I usually go into the cupboards but it always delays things so decided to do it this way for a change! And it’s bit me in the arse lol but I think I may go with the spurs and flex see what the site manager says thanks for the advice guys!
 
Its only in the UK where designers can come up with integrated appliances that gives the service supply no thought whatsoever

Along with some car designers and B+Q type light fitting bods,they should all be made to install their often stupid designs before they hit the shops,the often impossible crap they come up with may get more thought off these types
 
agree with des. don't these appliance manufacturers realise that they have to be plugged in, or do they think they're wirelees and the fitted plugs are just decoration.
 
I did a kitchen a few months ago:

Freezer
Ovens
Ovens
Fridge

The fused spurs for the fridge and freezer were to the left of the freezer, and I ran T&E to behind the units, cut off the appliance plugs and used Click connectors - job done.
 
I use trailing sockets. Don't think the kitchen fitters for the kitchen company I do a lot of work for would be too happy with sockets in cupboards...nor many of the customers for that matter
 
If the kitchen designers had any sense they’d make the work tops 650mm deep That would throw a spanner in the works but at least give space for a plug top!
Some kitchen manufacture's use 616mm worktops as apposed to 600mm this extra 16mm actual makes quite a difference believe it or not.
Personally though (from vast experience) the adjacent cupboard is my preferred option where possible. With a discreet hole cut that is just large enough to allow the plug top through. This saves cutting off the appliance's moulded plug and also makes it easier for the customer to pull in and out when required.
For integrated appliances that are basically designed to be fixed in place, suitably extending the lead if required works just fine. Or on occasion I have installed a conduit to an above counter fused spur where I can thread the flex from the appliance and wire it direct.
 
Using the flex and duraplug you can run them behind the kickboard and locate FSU anywhere you wish.

I measured a fridge freezer the other week and there was so little clearance I had to blank plate a socket behind it or it wouldn’t go in far enough to get screwed at the front.
 

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